vibrating baby

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Stormin Ben
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Post by Stormin Ben »

Jaglifter wrote:If its done 12k, then change the CCTs anyway.
Not sure I agree on that one
There is as yet no evidence that the newest CCT's are any better than any of the others
Plenty of people have changed theirs and had the new one go within 6 months

I'd say if you really want to swap them, get it done at the 16k service coz the heads'll be off to check the valves anyway
I've got an inferiority complex
But its not a very good one!
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Stormin Ben
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Post by Stormin Ben »

craigybaby wrote: It's got progressively worse so I think it's a consumable that's to blame. It was lovely and smooth when I took it out on test.

Does any one know roughly how much sprockets and chain are going to cost me?
I'd plump for the chain in this instance
Any tight spot etc is gonna be felt as vibration so pop it on a paddock stand and rotate the wheel BY HAND
Check the free play in the chain at frequent regular intervals (push up in the middle of the lower chain run and measure the amount of movement)
You'll probably find one or two points where the movement is significantly more than the rest of the chain
NBMake sure the adjustment at these tight spots is correct. There's no good having the chain adjusted right at a normal point if its tight as a drum on the tight spot

Also make sure it is nice and clean and well lubed

Next, on the rear sprocket, see how much off the sprocket you can pull the chain (from the 9 o'clock position as you look at the sprocket)
If its any more than the tiniest amount then the chain/ sprockets are shot

Steve from Paddockstand is probably your man to talk to WRT chain & sprockets (he gets B&C kit but at cheaper prices, I've used him myself a few times and been impressed with the service)


WRT carb balancing, its worth getting that done regularly anyway coz it feels sooo much smoother once they're right
I've got an inferiority complex
But its not a very good one!
craigybaby
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Post by craigybaby »

i am right in thinking that the storm shouldn't be vibrating badly tho.

Some bikes seem to be "buzzy" but im sure the storm isnt one.

Like i said, it was really smooth on the test ride ( i had it for 2hrs) and i liked it. Just noticed that it's progressively worse.

From what you've all said I reckon its defo the chain thats fecked. It sounds a bit noisy too.

ANy other advice? On another note, I find the handling on the storm a bit slow! i've worked out that the clunk in the gearbox from 1st to 2nd is normal (everyone on here says so) and i think it adds a bit of character. The shite brakes are endearing and sometimes interesting.

When I say that the handling is slow i find it really is an effort to crank it over into corners esp on twisty roads - if the road surface is a bit undulating the front seems really vague. Now i think that's down to the forks - they're obviously not set up for me. if i wanna make the front a bit firmer what do i need to do.

I'm changing the tyres soon - any ideas on which ones.

Sorry to be a nag. LIke i said, my storm is my pride and joy and when its not right it really pis&es me off but i have no mechanical skills what so ever!
Have you noticed when you're riding that everyone going slower than you is an idiot and everyone going faster than you is a maniac?
alan
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forks

Post by alan »

The forks are shite on the storm no matter what settings you put them to either get them revalved like alot of people on hear have done at Roger's at revolution racing for about 200 quid or change the front but thats another topic.

As for tyres i would go for michelins i have the pilot powers which are fantastic for me anyway, or the new michelins 2ct compound it all depends on what you want from a tyre and what kinf of riding your doing really.
Alan

PS someone will have rogers contact details no doubt i would put a clicky linky but im shite at that :D
craigybaby
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Post by craigybaby »

thanks for your help gang.

I've booked the storm in for a chain and sprocket check and to ahve the carbs balanced.

Re: tyres and bike usage. I use it to do my commute to work (round trip of 100 miles). But, there's a few peeps from work who go out for some rideouts adn they're very competent riders so i'm looking for something with a bit of grip as well as being hard wearing.

re: forks - gonna have to try tweaking them for the moment. insurance renewal is due for the storm, the car, moving house too and the storm is due for a service in about 2 months so the forks are a bit of a luxury at the moment. expensive few months :(
Have you noticed when you're riding that everyone going slower than you is an idiot and everyone going faster than you is a maniac?
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Kitch
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Post by Kitch »

craigybaby wrote:thanks for your help gang.

I've booked the storm in for a chain and sprocket check and to ahve the carbs balanced.

Re: tyres and bike usage. I use it to do my commute to work (round trip of 100 miles). But, there's a few peeps from work who go out for some rideouts adn they're very competent riders so i'm looking for something with a bit of grip as well as being hard wearing.

re: forks - gonna have to try tweaking them for the moment. insurance renewal is due for the storm, the car, moving house too and the storm is due for a service in about 2 months so the forks are a bit of a luxury at the moment. expensive few months :(
My advice for this would be DONT try and keep up. If you're trying to keep up, that's trying too hard and makes you push harder than your ability... as Yoda would say:

Trying too hard leads to trouble,
Trouble leads to crashing,
Crashing leads to pain...

If they're good blokes, they'll be good at group riding too. Try not to be at the back ( the back guys have to go a bit faster than the front guys) so be upfront about what you're comfortable with. Ask them if you can be up near the front end and if you feel uncomfortable, ask them to slow down a bit. You can accomodate newer or slower riders and still have a great ride out.
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alan
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vibrating baby

Post by alan »

I agree with Kitch you must only ride to your own ability dont get your ambitions mixed up with your capabilities if your mates are good mates they will understand and over time you will become faster just remember its not the bike its the rider :!: :!:
craigybaby
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Post by craigybaby »

They are quite good and when there's a lot of us they tend to mix groups according to skill.

Any info re: tyres then?
Have you noticed when you're riding that everyone going slower than you is an idiot and everyone going faster than you is a maniac?
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Kitch
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Post by Kitch »

You could try a mix like I have on mine... I have a Bridgestone 010 front and harder compound 020 on the rear... I'm expecting 6-8000 miles out of them. Soft fronts with matching rears will generally eat through 2 rears to 1 front tyre, so sticking a slightly less sporty tyre on the rear can help... works well with some combinations, but the profiles and stuff need to match up or it'll hurt the handling more.

I usually used mixed sets like this without any issues, though I'm not the fastest guy around...
Voted most likely to be found dead in park bushes following an act of autoerotic asphyxiation.
barrioplano
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Post by barrioplano »

but the profiles and stuff need to match up or it'll hurt the handling more
I am planning to get a Dunlop on the front but the Michelin Macadam on the back still has some life left... how do you check whether profiles and stuff are compatible?
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Kitch
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Post by Kitch »

Should say on the tyre, something like ZR17x180x70 or similar.

Generally, I wouldn't mix different manufacturers as their profiles, tyre pressures and stuff are bound to be different. My example, the Bridgestone 010 and 020 tyres sets are very similar, just the 020 are a harder compound so dont wear as fast (they dont provide as much grip though) so an 010 fornt and 020 rear is workable.

You could look into a soft compund Dunlop front (e.g. D208) and a harder compound Dunlop rear (eg D207) as both are the same size and run the same pressure as their "proper" set counterparts. You could even e-mail them and they'll happily tell you what works well.

Michelin wise you could look into say a Pilot Sport front and a Macadam rear. again though, I'd drop them an e-mail.

http://www.dunloptyres.co.uk/bike/
http://www.michelin.co.uk/uk/front/affi ... ubrique=66

Oh, and be careful! Just because the front has a nice sticky tyre doesn't mean you have race level grip. Mixing sets will compromise your grip, but you pay that price for better wear... Ride accordingly. If in doubt, (and really the best option) stick to matched sets.
Voted most likely to be found dead in park bushes following an act of autoerotic asphyxiation.
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Stormin Ben
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Post by Stormin Ben »

Has anyone on here actually fitted mis-matched tyres THEMSELVES and noticed a really bad handling problem??
I've mixed tyres a few times over the years and I haven't noticed any problems (Mez1 front, BT57 rear; Diablo corsa front, 010 rear etc)
Is it just an old wives tale?
I can see the logic in not mixing a really pointy 208gp front with a fat rounded 190 section rear but most mid-range road baised tyres are very similar profile.
Personally I think its just the tyre companies covering their butt.
I mean FFS Bridgestone expressly don't recommend the 010/ 020 combination despite the fact that loads of people do it and I've never heard anyone with a problem

Kitch,
How do you find the 020 rear? I did it once and hated it. Really ungrippy when upright, didn't get significantly more mileage out of it than my usual 010 and when it did wear the profile was awful
I've got an inferiority complex
But its not a very good one!
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Pete.L
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Post by Pete.L »

8O Ben! 8O
You astound me!!
You Normally speak(write) such good advice
Mixing your tyres is a definate No No. (I'm a dumb ass whose tried it :wink: )
Under normal riding conditions you probably wont notice the difference but pushing it a bit or bad weather or an emergency stop 8O the bike will almost definatly do something untoward underneith you.
You can however mix with the same manufacturer ie 010 front and 020 rear. Always put the sportier compound on the front.

Pete.l
bluesman
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Post by bluesman »

Progressively worse and vibration goes when clutch pulled - this sound very similar to issue I once had on other bike with clutch. When disassembled I found clutch disks warped and one even split.
Do not know why it rattled under load only, but it did. And it was Honda too - not bike's fault, somebody just did bad job on bike when changed clutch.
4 wheels moving body, 2 wheels moving soul
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Stormin Ben
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Post by Stormin Ben »

Pete.L wrote:8O Ben! 8O
You astound me!!
You Normally speak(write) such good advice
Cheers mate :lol:
Under normal riding conditions you probably wont notice the difference but pushing it a bit or bad weather or an emergency stop Shocked the bike will almost definatly do something untoward underneith you.
Based on what evidence?
If my now matching pair of Diablos do nothing untoward in an emergency, and my previous matching pair of 010's didn't either I just can't quite see why fitting a diablo front with an 010 rear should suddenly make the front wash out if I brake hard or the rear throw sideways if I get on the gas at the same time as I would with a pair of 010's :?:

I wasn't actually advising everyone to go out and fit mixed sets
I was just curious to see if anyone who had had actually had any problems?

In the real world you're not always gonna need a pair of tyres at exactly the same time and if you want to go for a different tyre come change time you're gonna have to have a period of mis-matching
I've got an inferiority complex
But its not a very good one!
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