Alans AMAZING Single Swing Arm Pics!!!

[alan]

alan> can i ask where you got the link pipes from to get that cranked up look


i currently have high level pipes but much prefer that look

Rincewind they are the low level link pipes.

When i ordered my cans i ordered full length pipes and didnt realize that high level pipes are shorter,i asked blueflame if they did link pipes for the standard size can and they said no, it wont work.

So i had them at low level for a few months before having a brain wave this being if you spin the low level link pipes round they end up cranking the pipe up like the sp i loose a exhaust mount bracket but this doesnt matter as they are really secure the other thing is i made the rear foot hanger brackets these made out of some ally plate but its not quite thick enough to take weight so will be making some more with thicker plate later.


To Ben
wheres crocodile dundee now, probably with that other crazy ozzy Steve croc hunter whatever he's called

[alan]

I dont know which way to go on this one so i will post it for debate and see if any of you can help.

When the singlesided arm is fitted the rear sprocket is 5 mil to the left of the front sprocket when looking from the rear towards the front sprocket.

The first solution is how Daz Sear did his which is mill 2.5 mm out of the back of the sprocket and 2.5 mm out of the face of the carrier which then will bring the chain and rear sprocket inline with the front by 5 mil to the right.

The other solution is a spacer on the front but Daz thought this may be risky so me and a friend came up with this: by using 2 front sprockets.

You would mill 1 of the sprockets right down to 5 mil and take the teeth off, something like a big washer, by keeping the hole where the splined part is you then weld this to the back of the other front sprocket this creating a spacer but it will be stronger and it will slide on the splines of the crank with the other sprocket bringing the front sprocket out by 5 mil to the left aligning up with the rear.

Any thoughts and suggestions would be helpful

ps sorry for the long essay

thanks Alan

[sirch345]

Hi Alan,
I personally would probably go with Daz's mod although neither imo are ideal
My concern for the front sprocket idea is for one, you would have to be spot on with the second sprocket making sure it was exactly central (or else your chain will be tightening and slackening all the time) and in line, also I would be concerned how the heat from the welding could be affecting the existing sprocket, it could make it brittle, only my thought's Alan

Chris.

[Rincewind]

though to be fair, making the rear sprocket slightly thinner will this allow the chain to move at all??

i think the spacer on the front may be a better way to go as all widths are maintained

just my tuppence worth

[Rincewind]

alan > wrt to the low level pipes, i'm probably gonna get some new ones made, so do i need the bend in the nearside one to allow for the chain???

[alan]

Thanks guys for your opinions, Chris not sure what you mean by the chain will slip as the chain will be on the outside sprocket teeth the other sprocket has been milled down to act as a spacer but having the benefit of the splines to line up on the crank with the good sprocket, or was this your concern ligning the splines up on both sprockets before welding?

Rincewind the rear sprocket is only milled in the centre the radius of the hub not out to the teeth so the thickness of the sprocket teeth are the same to ensure the chain wont move around.

To make it easier to explain the radius of the hub is less than the radius of the sprocket so you only mill out the radius of the hub on the back side of the sprocket leaving the teeth alone if your confused dont worry imagine what i was like when i started the project

As for the link pipes are you taking your bike to the exhaust maker as it could do with alittle tweaking, the chain side makes the left can closer to the bodywork than the right it doesnt touch its just its not an exact match to the other side, and if your like me it bugs me slightly i will take some pics upclose and show you.

To your other question about the bend do you mean the little kink in the pipe for the chain?

[Stormin Ben]

Alan,

Couple of questions first

1. Whats the big deal with putting a spacer on the front sprocket? Is it lack of space under the sprocket cover or just concerns that there'll not be enough thread to hold the sprocket on?

2. Have you considered going to 520 pitch chain and sprockets?
The ones I've seen have had a lip on them at the mating face so the centres still line up but you could machine this off

3. Are the wheels 100% in line and its definitely the extra width of the carrier thats pushing the chain alignment out? You'll be mightily pissed off if you do all that fannying about to get the chain lined up and THEN find you need to move the swingarm 5mm to the right to get the wwheels spot on!!


My other thoughts

Have you considered the actual chain run itself? If you move the rear inboard is the chain guide not gonna be rock-eyed?

By the same token, if you move the front sprocket out by 5mm is it not gonna foul anything (eg back edge of the front cover

The spacer idea appeals more (although probably not weld it to the sprocket, just leave it on the shaft)
As and when you come to replace the C&S its not gonna be the same ball-ache of having to get them machined up to fit

For the same reason as above, is there enough on the hub to enable you to machine 5mm off it instead so you can fit unmodified sprockets



Hope this has been of some help

[Rincewind]

the left link pipe has a "run" bent into the pipe to allow the chain to pass over

bugger it, this



do i need it with pipes swept up like yours???

[alan]

Hi Ben
the only concern i have is will it put any strain on the crank, i am not too bothered about the bolt as i could get a longer one,there would be a space problem with the sprocket cover i would think but i could take the rubber backing panel off which will free room up it would only be a 5 mil spacer anyway.

I would prefer not to have it welded as you say but by not welding it do you think this would cause a problem like the spacer spinning around very fast and maybe eventually wear the spline away or will there be enough pressure from the GOOD sprocket when torqued up for it not to spin.

Dont want to change to a 520 pitch as i have just bought brand new c/ss.

The wheels are deff inline i put one off my very long sash cramps on the rims and checked to see if it touched both radius on both wheels.

Daz Sear and everyone he knows who has done the conversion has had to machine the hub/sprocket to get it inline.It is the problem with the single sider mod on the vtr.

On Daz's bike the chain just runs off the chain guide slightly but doesnt foul anything it just doesnt sit on the rail shall we say, near the front but i can solve this by making the holes where it bolts to the swingarm bigger allowing you to move it across to suit.

It would be better as you say if there is room to mill off 5 mil from the hub then when changing sprockets in the future no need to mill anything, i will measure and see if i can do this but i am sure the lugs that need machining are only about 10 mil.

Going back to the front there could also be the problem of the chain hitting the cover was this your concern?

Thanks Ben you have been a great help and brought some more intresting ideas and points its always better airing the problem to hear different solutions and suggestions.
Alan

ps here are some pics see what you think , on the rear hub its the face of the hub (the lugs that will need machining where the sprocket bolts to)

[Rincewind]

just cos i'm nice....


http://img478.imageshack.us/img478/2355 ... 0234za.jpg

http://img61.imageshack.us/img61/8466/v ... 0017wg.jpg

http://img65.imageshack.us/img65/5360/v ... 0026hk.jpg

[alan]

cheers rincewind ive just done them i will go to my garage and take a pic for you i am positive you need one still but mine is just slightly off from the chain but it doesnt foul anything

[Rincewind]

cheers, will help when i take it to the pipe maker

gonna a take a piccy of your bike as well to show him what i'm after if thats ok

[Stormin Ben]

the only concern i have is will it put any strain on the crank,

Given the length of the gearbox output shaft (compared to 2.5mm) I would have thought you'll put loads more pressure on it by having the chain too tight than moving the lever pivot position further out by 2.5mm

do you think this would cause a problem like the spacer spinning around very fast and maybe eventually wear the spline away or will there be enough pressure from the GOOD sprocket when torqued up for it not to spin.

I can't remember off the top of my head what the mouning face on the front sprocket looks like. Given the amount of torque it requires to do it up I really can't see the washer spinning any more than the rear wheel spacers spinning when the wheel goes round

The wheels are deff inline i put one off my very long sash cramps on the rims and checked to see if it touched both radius on both wheels.

Alarm bells
Please tell me you put two cramp on and made sure the front wheel was equidistant between the two
The front rim is 60mm narrower than the rear so a flat edge against the rear rim should be 30mm inside the edge at the front
Also, if you're gonna be very acurate you really need to let the tyres down/ take them off so you're using the rims, not the tyre

WRT the rear hub, is it threaded or do the bolts come through from behind meaning that the hub is just acting as a spacer?
Just thinking that if its just acting ac a spacer you could get away with leaving less material on it

[sirch345]

Thanks guys for your opinions, Chris not sure what you mean by the chain will slip as the chain will be on the outside sprocket teeth the other sprocket has been milled down to act as a spacer but having the benefit of the splines to line up on the crank with the good sprocket, or was this your concern ligning the splines up on both sprockets before welding?

Yes Alan that was my concern, aligning up both splines before welding

Chris.

[alan]

cheers, will help when i take it to the pipe maker

gonna a take a piccy of your bike as well to show him what i'm after if thats ok

Yes thats fine mate i have had a look you still need the kink in the pipe but i am looking at my bike now with no headers on and a different swingarm but the chainrunner still aligns up with the kink here are some pics not very helpful as i cant get a good shot with the pipe and rearsets.

But if you are getting them made to suit the problems i mentioned about one slightly different to the other you wont have this as he can make to suit and match the height and gap.

I need some pipework doing you will have to let me know how you get on,i need my rear header changing and some link pipes.

ps post pics in a min having a cpu problem