vibrating baby

bluesman · Post by **bluesman** » Thu Jun 22, 2006 2:21 pm

Progressively worse and vibration goes when clutch pulled - this sound very similar to issue I once had on other bike with clutch. When disassembled I found clutch disks warped and one even split.
Do not know why it rattled under load only, but it did. And it was Honda too - not bike's fault, somebody just did bad job on bike when changed clutch.

Stormin Ben · Post by **Stormin Ben** » Thu Jun 22, 2006 8:57 pm

Pete.L wrote: Ben!
You astound me!!
You Normally speak(write) such good advice

Cheers mate

Under normal riding conditions you probably wont notice the difference but pushing it a bit or bad weather or an emergency stop Shocked the bike will almost definatly do something untoward underneith you.

Based on what evidence?
If my now matching pair of Diablos do nothing untoward in an emergency, and my previous matching pair of 010's didn't either I just can't quite see why fitting a diablo front with an 010 rear should suddenly make the front wash out if I brake hard or the rear throw sideways if I get on the gas at the same time as I would with a pair of 010's

I wasn't actually advising everyone to go out and fit mixed sets
I was just curious to see if anyone who had had actually had any problems?

In the real world you're not always gonna need a pair of tyres at exactly the same time and if you want to go for a different tyre come change time you're gonna have to have a period of mis-matching

craigybaby · Post by **craigybaby** » Sun Jul 02, 2006 2:00 pm

hey bluesman, thanks for the post

looking at the chain and sprocket, they're due for renewal.....

bike is 5 yrs old and looks like original chain and sprockets.

am gonna have the carbs balanced too.

they're two easy things i can do trying to rid the vibrations, am interested in your story about the clutch.

just out of curiosity, how big a job is it to look at the clutch plates and change them if necessary?

bluesman · Post by **bluesman** » Sun Jul 02, 2006 10:36 pm

Changing clutch plates on Storm same as on most "simple" bikes - no big deal - about hour of easy job. Remove cover, remove few bolts, take off plates package, put back in new set, tighten up etc. When I checked clutch on my Storm to remove it I first removed clutch cylinder (other side of engine) toghether with front sprocket cover and used chance to clean up around front sprocket - lots of sh..t accumulates there.
One drawback is that you will ned to drain oil. Few times in my life I've used "roadside" method of putting bike almost flat on it's side so that there will be no need to drain oil, but I do not think that it is healthy practice

craigybaby · Post by **craigybaby** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 2:51 am

hey bluesman

being the cyncial that i am, im beginning to wonder whether it is the chain that is causing the vibrations.

its really pis&ing me off now.

beginning to think that it might be the clutch.

i've ruled out the bearings, have had it up on the paddock stand and played with the wheels and they're smooth as a babys.....

change teh chain and sprockets and go from there really.

how much is a clutch and labour gonna cost me?

Stormin Ben · Post by **Stormin Ben** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 9:54 am

bluesman wrote:One drawback is that you will ned to drain oil. Few times in my life I've used "roadside" method of putting bike almost flat on it's side so that there will be no need to drain oil, but I do not think that it is healthy practice

I had the clutch cover off last year to get the water pump changed
I just put the bike on its side stand and the oil level was then below that of the cover ie no oil leaking on the floor
My only tip would be to just be extra careful that you don't drop any crap into the oil while you're working on it

Craig
Changing the clutch is not a complicated job at all -definitely something you can do at home
Clutch plates - Â£60ish
Clutch springs - Â£10
Clutch cover gasket - Â£15 (unless you're really lucky the old one will break into 7 pieces on removal!!

)
Labour - shouldn't be more than an hour if they're competent

craigybaby · Post by **craigybaby** » Tue Jul 04, 2006 12:50 pm

ta ben for the info

sorry to sound like a big girls blouse but mechanical i aint.... electrical yes!

would a clutch really need changing with 12k on the clock?

from what i know of the two geezers who had the bike before me they were quite doddery so you never know ??? just didnt have them down as being one of the "quick getaway" gang and wheelying everywhere

but i might be wrong....

Stormin Ben · Post by **Stormin Ben** » Tue Jul 04, 2006 1:47 pm

craigybaby wrote: mechanical i aint....

In which case, get the chain and sprockets changed first
Then see if the rattle has disappeared and only if it hasn't look at the clutch

Personally I can't see the clutch causing the rattle and especially not at 12k
Mine has done 40k and is still on the original plates

Mind you I did replace the springs but that was coz the stock ones were awful if you tried to launch at anymore than idle revs.
The clutch would graunch and grip-slip-GRIP which was not pleasant, especially with a pillion on board!!

bluesman · Post by **bluesman** » Tue Jul 04, 2006 1:57 pm

Clutch might be the cause (as Ben mentioned - only after rest excluded) because it is misused, not because of wear. Clutch will never wear out in 12K if used normally. But if somebody grilled clutch - one of plates might get cracked or bent. This might cause vibration at specific rpms. This what I had experienced in the past (not on Storm).

BTW - just few days ago one of my friends had sorted some vibrations problem on his bike (not VTR) - guess what, it was bearing of secondary drive. Somebody before him rode bike with too tight chain and damaged bearing. But then it was visible - leaked oil through bearing.

craigybaby · Post by **craigybaby** » Tue Jul 04, 2006 7:02 pm

bugger it

i'm gonna take it back to the dealer. it's still under their "no quibble" warranty but i just feel daft saying "it vibrates"

i know they;'re gonna turn around and say all bikes do but its really noticeable. 30/40 mins and my feet/hands are numb.

im getting there thru a process of elimination. have had my tyres changed - the bloke checked my chain and sprockets - they're fine.

the bike vibrates thru the entire rev range and is noticeable when under load. it even vibrates with teh clutch lever in.

could it be the CCT or something? I'm not sure if its transmission related because even in neutral and just sitting on it and blipping the throttle causes the vibes.

bloody thing

Stormin Ben · Post by **Stormin Ben** » Tue Jul 04, 2006 10:31 pm

craigybaby wrote: it only happens when there's power on, if i hold the clutch in and free wheel its as smooth as a baby's a**.

craigybaby wrote:the bike vibrates thru the entire rev range and is noticeable when under load. it even vibrates with the clutch lever in.

Which is it mate?
The VTR by its very nature is a vibey bike -but its more of a lower frequency buzz than an inline 4's tingle.
I occasionally find my hands tingling after an hour or so but its usually if I've been riding hard down a very twisty road where I HAVE to hold on fairly tightly. Otherwise I keep a fairly loose grip on the bars and its fine

My advice?
- For sure, get the dealr to check it out if its under warranty
- See if they've got a VTR demo you can ride to compare
- Is there anyone in your local area who can let you ride their storm for a further comparison?

Pete.L · Post by **Pete.L** » Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:35 am

Sorry Ben I missed your reply

Ben said

Based on what evidence?
If my now matching pair of Diablos do nothing untoward in an emergency, and my previous matching pair of 010's didn't either I just can't quite see why fitting a diablo front with an 010 rear should suddenly make the front wash out if I brake hard or the rear throw sideways if I get on the gas at the same time as I would with a pair of 010's

Some tyres will work well together some wont.
I fitted an Azaro rear with a 010 front and it was great but I also remember having my xj550 dump me on the floor when the front washed out years ago (Road runner front and bridgestone rear I think). All tyres "slip" a bit going over the road surfaces on bends but as long as their characteristics are the same you hardly feel it but when the characteristics are vastly different that's when you can get yourself into a whole bundle of hurt. Normally as long as you have a better front than a rear you can get away whith it.
I doubt you'd put a continental front and a diablo rear on your bike on a track day and get away with it.

Pete.l

Stormin Ben · Post by **Stormin Ben** » Wed Jul 05, 2006 10:19 am

I would if it was cheap!!

(Scottish tendencies override personal safety every time

)

Pete.L · Post by **Pete.L** » Thu Jul 06, 2006 12:19 pm

Tell Me when, I'll bring a camera

Pete.l

Stormin Ben · Post by **Stormin Ben** » Thu Jul 06, 2006 5:25 pm

Make it a video camera and I'll split the Â£250 with you

Crowning moment was at Silverstone trackday last year.

Got a nail in the rear tyre of my Rennsports so was peed off at that -put my road wheel with 010 on and went out for the first session
Cue lots of sliding moments until half way through the session when the steering went really heavy and I pulled back into the pits to discover the front tyre was down to 9psi
By this point I'm thoroughly pissed off at the prospect of having to shell out Â£200+ for a new set of stickies

Went up to the tyre bloke and pleaded poverty
He had a set of Supercorsas which a bloke had just binned coz the right side was worn out on the rear and the front was well past its best
So I paid him Â£40 for them inc fitting

Put the rear on the wrong way round so the profile in right handers was ok

They lasted me another 2 trackdays

VTR1000.ORG

vibrating baby

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