what have you done to your "bike" today

[sirch345]

Fun filled day of repacking mufflers......

I like,

Chris.

[sirch345]

Started bike up for first time since coolant hoses and manual ccts fitted, she started after 5 stabs at the button.
No rattles as such, ran up to temp topping coolant and checking oil no leaks all good.

On start up from running temp a screech on turnover then disappeared I belief this the manual ccts being a little tight.

Need to check again from cold tomorrow to replicate, question is how I deal with the problem have read so many posts on the subject head is in the shed.
Any advice will be well received.

How much up and down movement between the cam sprockets did you give the cam chains

Chris.

[mjvw]

Locked 0EM off using lock of key rear first TDC then front TDC measured and set manual ls up to that setting checked motor turned ok no issues.
As per instructions provided with purchased ccts and site instruction but did not measure chain slack.
Was hoping could back them off without removing cam cover as all new gaskets and cam bolt washers fitted.
Thanks for the help.

[sirch345]

Locked 0EM off using lock of key rear first TDC then front TDC measured and set manual ls up to that setting checked motor turned ok no issues.
As per instructions provided with purchased ccts and site instruction but did not measure chain slack.
Was hoping could back them off without removing cam cover as all new gaskets and cam bolt washers fitted.
Thanks for the help.

I would suggest backing out the adjuster on one cylinder first one or two flats, if you were able to tell which cylinder you heard the screech from then do that one first. You want to do that when the engine is stone cold, so if the first cylinder you go for doesn't cure the screech try the other one the next day so the engine is cold. Good luck,

Chris.

[mjvw]

Locked 0EM off using lock of key rear first TDC then front TDC measured and set manual ls up to that setting checked motor turned ok no issues.
As per instructions provided with purchased ccts and site instruction but did not measure chain slack.
Was hoping could back them off without removing cam cover as all new gaskets and cam bolt washers fitted.
Thanks for the help.

I would suggest backing out the adjuster on one cylinder first one or two flats, if you were able to tell which cylinder you heard the screech from then do that one first. You want to do that when the engine is stone cold, so if the first cylinder you go for doesn't cure the screech try the other one the next day so the engine is cold. Good luck,

Chris.

Thanks Chris will do.

[sirch345]

[quote=sirch345 post_id=497456 time=<a href="tel:1647899341">1647899341</a> user_id=345]
[quote=mjvw post_id=497454 time=<a href="tel:1647896717">1647896717</a> user_id=15582]
Locked 0EM off using lock of key rear first TDC then front TDC measured and set manual ls up to that setting checked motor turned ok no issues.
As per instructions provided with purchased ccts and site instruction but did not measure chain slack.
Was hoping could back them off without removing cam cover as all new gaskets and cam bolt washers fitted.
Thanks for the help.

I would suggest backing out the adjuster on one cylinder first one or two flats, if you were able to tell which cylinder you heard the screech from then do that one first. You want to do that when the engine is stone cold, so if the first cylinder you go for doesn't cure the screech try the other one the next day so the engine is cold. Good luck,

Chris.
[/quote]

Thanks Chris will do.
[/quote]

Thinking about this a bit more, if you're not sure which cylinder the screech came from I would suggest backing off the front CCT first. The reason being is, the front OEM standard Honda CCT on the front cylinder tightens up as the rev's drop, whereas the rear Honda OEM CCT on the rear cylinder backs off the tension as the rev's drop,

Chris.

[mjvw]

Thanks great advice just taken my of the ball this last couple of weeks due work.

[#MOOSE90]

Fitted my lowers and carbon strip to screen

[sirch345]

Fitted my lowers and carbon strip to screen

Looking good

Chris.

[MacV2]

Out & about on The Murvinator, just a run out to get a few bits & £20 worth of fule... Not even a full tank FFS.

[MacV2]

Released Nue Red from its winter hibernation.

Freshley charged battery. Check.

Fresh fule. Check.

Hit the starter several times to pull some fule through. Drained carbs...

Hold the starter & eventualy it springs into life.

Run it up to fan kicks in...All good execpt...

Horrible blowing from the rear header. On inspection the header has dropped down about an inch

This was probably from the Wales slide. I had used it a few times after Wales before putting it in hibbernation & it was probably doing it then but with ear plugs & a helmet on I never noticed it...

Sitting on it today whilst warming it up it was fairly noticeable

So dropped the oil as that was the plan any way, then once it had cooled down a bit further inspection showed the issue, the clamp was a little loose but as the pipe had dropped down it needed to be pushed back up.

This is the Mori Ti system so no graphite gaskets in there...

Gave it a few whacks with the deadblow hammer but it didn't budge... Then

I pinged the springs off to take the tension off & used me trolly jack under the lower part of the header to slowly jack it up, the rear downpipe has a stopper ridge on it, got it bob on, re set the clamp in the right spot tightened it up...& had to wait till the oil was back in before testing it...

Pleased to say all is now good.

Checked all the lights & indis put a bit of air in the boots...Good to go.

Gonna get a ride out tomorrow... probably about £60 worth of fule to look forward to...

[ItsaKeeper]

Released Nue Red from its winter hibernation.

Freshley charged battery. Check.

Fresh fule. Check.

Hit the starter several times to pull some fule through. Drained carbs...

Hold the starter & eventualy it springs into life.

Run it up to fan kicks in...All good execpt...

Horrible blowing from the rear header. On inspection the header has dropped down about an inch

This was probably from the Wales slide. I had used it a few times after Wales before putting it in hibbernation & it was probably doing it then but with ear plugs & a helmet on I never noticed it...

Sitting on it today whilst warming it up it was fairly noticeable

So dropped the oil as that was the plan any way, then once it had cooled down a bit further inspection showed the issue, the clamp was a little loose but as the pipe had dropped down it needed to be pushed back up.

This is the Mori Ti system so no graphite gaskets in there...

Gave it a few whacks with the deadblow hammer but it didn't budge... Then

I pinged the springs off to take the tension off & used me trolly jack under the lower part of the header to slowly jack it up, the rear downpipe has a stopper ridge on it, got it bob on, re set the clamp in the right spot tightened it up...& had to wait till the oil was back in before testing it...

Pleased to say all is now good.

Checked all the lights & indis put a bit of air in the boots...Good to go.

Gonna get a ride out tomorrow... probably about £60 worth of fule to look forward to...

I think I will have exactly the same issue on mine since I low sided as I remember seeing something venting from the front header so stuck my head in the sand and parked the bike up and hid it under some beach towels...can't keep ignoring and put off sorting for much longer

I'll copy what you did (eventually!) and hopefully it'll be fine too

[Robert j]

Fitted some new black widow pipes they seem good quality a sound good without the baffles now to remove the flywheel off an engine I bought for £30 on eBay I think this maybe harder to do so I'm just charging my impact gun

[tony.mon]

Finally solved the sea of warning lights and can bus alarms the Tuono was showing me after I did a full service, valve clearances and all.
Four bloody weeks it's taken, learning how to do computer diagnostics and trouble shooting the wiring harness. Turns out one of the two electronic throttle tracks has packed up, so it ticks over but the throttle doesn't connect to the throttle bodies .

I ordered a secondhand throttle from a crashed bike (on the principle that it must have been running up to the crash) and swapped it over. That was nearly all there was to it, I thought, but simply swapping the part doesn't fix it, you then have to plug in a laptop to do "throttle learning" and "handle learning" then reset the rear tyre rolling circumference by riding in second at 24 mph for half a mile.

But after all that was done, no alarm and warning lights, all good once again, thank god.

Good job, too- that £600 Storm street fighter was starting to look like a good option to get me to Yorkshire.

[KermitLeFrog]

Finally solved the sea of warning lights and can bus alarms the Tuono was showing me after I did a full service, valve clearances and all.....snip...

Wait till you tie it into your phone and get the full logging data. These are the data points it gives you.

CLOCK (s) LAPTIME (s) SPEED (km/h) RPM GAS (%) ROLL (deg) ACCLAT (g) ACCLON (g) WHEELSLIP (%) POWER (kW) TORQUE (Nm) WATER_TEMP (deg) FUEL_INST (km/l) APRC_INTERVENTION ATC_LEVEL AWC_LEVEL V4_MP_ACTIVE ABS_ACTIVE LATITUDE_GPS LONGITUDE_GPS LATITUDE_CIRCUIT LONGITUDE_CIRCUIT TRACK_DISTANCE TOTAL_DISTANCE (km) AVERAGE_CONS (km/l) GEAR FRONT SPEED (km/h) REAR SPEED (km/h) REFERENCE SPEED (km/h)

Fascinating, but I haven't bothered in years. It's humbling to find out my maximum lean angle on the street is only 42deg.

Anyway, since the throttle was working before you got your thick mitts on it, that means you broke it.