Just a quick question.
If the CCT went and was replaced, would the engine still turnover if valves had been damaged?
Also, if the timing was out, would the bike still run, albeit poorly?
If it would run, what are the symptoms of the timing being wrong, say a tooth out?
Sorry to saound such a pleb.......
Timing
The engine would still turn over if the valves were damaged as when it happened the piston would knock (bend) the valves out of the way 
If the CCT packed up and has been replaced, if the job has been done correctly the valve timing will have been aligned up with the appropriate markings anyway
If the valve timing is out just one tooth IMO I'd thought it would still run and sound reasonable the same but not pull or rev as good as it did on the road
Chris.
If the CCT packed up and has been replaced, if the job has been done correctly the valve timing will have been aligned up with the appropriate markings anyway
If the valve timing is out just one tooth IMO I'd thought it would still run and sound reasonable the same but not pull or rev as good as it did on the road
Chris.
My front CCT went a few months ago.
The engine would not turn over on the starter.
It bent the 2 inlet valves when the chain jumped a few teeth. You could push the bike along in gear and all you could hear was the chain jumping teeth (sounds like a football rattle).
But it would not turn the engine over on the starter.
Just re-read your post. Depending on how badly damaged the valves are will dictate if the engine will turn over or not. If they are damaged, it won't run properly if at all.
The engine would not turn over on the starter.
It bent the 2 inlet valves when the chain jumped a few teeth. You could push the bike along in gear and all you could hear was the chain jumping teeth (sounds like a football rattle).
But it would not turn the engine over on the starter.
Just re-read your post. Depending on how badly damaged the valves are will dictate if the engine will turn over or not. If they are damaged, it won't run properly if at all.
Took it apart again to have another look. Checked valve clearances, all are within tolerances, which is good.....I think!!!!
Re checked the timing and it looks like the rear is 1 tooth out........
I think it's because i was in a foul mood when i did it so didn't take as much care as maybe i should.
So tomorrow morning, do it all again. But whilst i have it apart, going to recheck all the fuel hoses etc and blast the carb through...
Hope this work
Re checked the timing and it looks like the rear is 1 tooth out........
I think it's because i was in a foul mood when i did it so didn't take as much care as maybe i should.
So tomorrow morning, do it all again. But whilst i have it apart, going to recheck all the fuel hoses etc and blast the carb through...
Hope this work
What exactly is the problemStevePJ wrote:Took it apart again to have another look. Checked valve clearances, all are within tolerances, which is good.....I think!!!!
Re checked the timing and it looks like the rear is 1 tooth out........
I think it's because i was in a foul mood when i did it so didn't take as much care as maybe i should.
So tomorrow morning, do it all again. But whilst i have it apart, going to recheck all the fuel hoses etc and blast the carb through...
Hope this work
If you tell us what's happening or not happening as the case may be we may be able to give you some more advice
Chris.
Okay.
Dreaded rattle from rear CCT. Stopped her immediately.
Have redone the timing as it was out on the rear and is now spot on with all marks. Checked botrh front and rear. Whilst the cover was off I checked all the valve tolerances and they were spot on.
Put back together and double checked the fuel pipes. All connected and to the proper connections.
Fired her up, running like a pig. If the choke is off she stalls. Feels like she is not running fully on the rear, and there is a lot of backfiring from that exhaust. Have checked both pipes though, and they are both as hot as each other.
What now do you reckon?
Dreaded rattle from rear CCT. Stopped her immediately.
Have redone the timing as it was out on the rear and is now spot on with all marks. Checked botrh front and rear. Whilst the cover was off I checked all the valve tolerances and they were spot on.
Put back together and double checked the fuel pipes. All connected and to the proper connections.
Fired her up, running like a pig. If the choke is off she stalls. Feels like she is not running fully on the rear, and there is a lot of backfiring from that exhaust. Have checked both pipes though, and they are both as hot as each other.
What now do you reckon?
Have you made sure that the rear cylinder is timed in conjunction with the front cylinderStevePJ wrote:Both facing outwards.......
What I mean by that is when the rear cylinder is set up,with the timing mark (RT) on the flywheel aligned, and the cam sprockets (RI and RE) marks facing away from each other lined up with the top of the cylinderhead, you then need to rotate the engine ANTI-CLOCKWISE 450 degrees (one and a quarter turns) until the (FT) mark is aligned on the flywheel, if both cylinders are timed correctly (in conjunction with each other) at that point the cam sprockets marks on the front cylinder (FI and FE) will also be lined up facing away from each other
If that does show a problem it will be the rear cylinder that needs altering I would say IMO seeing as it was the rear CCT that started the problem
HTH,
Chris.
Thats exactly how i have set them up, checked front marks, turn 3/4 anti clockwise, then set up with marks facing out....
Really peed off jnow,as it looks as if i will have to pay someone to look at it, and at the mo i don't have any spare cash, so looks like it will have to sit there for a while....
Really peed off jnow,as it looks as if i will have to pay someone to look at it, and at the mo i don't have any spare cash, so looks like it will have to sit there for a while....
That sounds pretty good to meStevePJ wrote:Thats exactly how i have set them up, checked front marks, turn 3/4 anti clockwise, then set up with marks facing out....
Really peed off jnow,as it looks as if i will have to pay someone to look at it, and at the mo i don't have any spare cash, so looks like it will have to sit there for a while....
If it were me I'd try to borrow or hire a compression tester so you can check the compression before you start paying out, I would guess that one of the valves is not closing completely so a compression test would confirm if it is that or not
It's possible as Rainmaker suggested that the spark plug is braking down, or the plug cap or even the HT coil is the culprit, a bit of a coincidence I know but it could be
Like I said if it were me I'd try the compression test first, but it's obviously up to you
Good luck anyway Chris.
Am looking at borrowing a compression tester so that should tell me a
bit more.....
Also, am gonna replace the plugs as well, but how do i check that the spark is
good, just by checking it agains a metal part or is there another way, and is there a way of testing the coil?
Sorry to sound like a numpty but electrics really aren't my thing....
bit more.....
Also, am gonna replace the plugs as well, but how do i check that the spark is
good, just by checking it agains a metal part or is there another way, and is there a way of testing the coil?
Sorry to sound like a numpty but electrics really aren't my thing....
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Stormin Ben
- Posts: 1234
- Joined: Sun Dec 01, 2002 12:23 am
- Location: Birmingham
What I've always done in the past is hold the spark plug electrode against the block of the engine.
You should be able to see the spark quite clearly
Although this will tell you if there is a spark there, it won't tell you if it's there at the right time though
You should be able to see the spark quite clearly
Although this will tell you if there is a spark there, it won't tell you if it's there at the right time though
I've got an inferiority complex
But its not a very good one!
But its not a very good one!
Testing the spark is not so easy as what you may see with the plug removed from the cylinderhead and resting against something metal to earth it will not show you what spark you actually have when it's under compression
It may be possible to swap over HT coils, then if the problem is transferred to the front cylinder you will know you have a faulty coil or faulty plug cap Someone else may be able to give you more advise on that
I personally would do the compression test first then if that test shows the compression on both cylinders is good you can then elimate that and move on
Chris.
It may be possible to swap over HT coils, then if the problem is transferred to the front cylinder you will know you have a faulty coil or faulty plug cap
Someone else may be able to give you more advise on that I personally would do the compression test first
then if that test shows the compression on both cylinders is good you can then elimate that and move on Chris.