Further to the known regulator/rectifier problem does.......

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LotusSevenMan
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Further to the known regulator/rectifier problem does.......

Post by LotusSevenMan »

.............. anyone have the figures for the correct voltage across the battery at idle (1100rpm) and at say, 3-4,000 rpm ?

I know that sealed cells should be charged slightly higher so I'm reliably (?) informed due to their composition, but mine shows 14.63 at idle with about 14.42 at 3-4 thou (can't test any higher rpm due neighbours). Lead acids are normally seen as charging at 13.8-14.00v

Just seems a bit high to me. Drops a bit when the heated handlebar grips I'm just fitting are switched on. About .2 volt though so not a lot.

Higher volts = hotter hands!!!!
But....................................................... :?:
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Post by LotusSevenMan »

Just got a CD-ROM manual through the post today (yeah, off of eBay) and it says with engine warm and headlight on voltage across battery should be less than 15.5 volts (!) so I guess that's all in order with mine then!!! :wink2
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sirch345
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Re: Further to the known regulator/rectifier problem does...

Post by sirch345 »

LotusSevenMan wrote:.............. anyone have the figures for the correct voltage across the battery at idle (1100rpm) and at say, 3-4,000 rpm ?

I know that sealed cells should be charged slightly higher so I'm reliably (?) informed due to their composition, but mine shows 14.63 at idle with about 14.42 at 3-4 thou (can't test any higher rpm due neighbours). Lead acids are normally seen as charging at 13.8-14.00v

Just seems a bit high to me. Drops a bit when the heated handlebar grips I'm just fitting are switched on. About .2 volt though so not a lot.

Higher volts = hotter hands!!!!
But....................................................... :?:
I thought the same as you that the voltage seemed a little high. I then remembered that when Tempest fitted a R1 (Yamaha) rectifier that his readings were higher than mine with the standard Honda rectifier, so perhaps you have a R1 rectifier already fitted.

Take a look at the link, right at the bottom Tempest gives his voltage readings, not far out from yours :!:

Chris.

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB2/viewtopic ... 0&start=15
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Post by LotusSevenMan »

Cheers Sirch.

I missed that thread. Am going to look at having a Yammy RR on hand anyway just in case. The Honda std one hardly looks up to the job does it and the burnt out pic looks horrifying. I have heard of people putting computer fans on other makes of RR too so not just a Honda problem. Fine when all new, but just not up to the long term duty cycles etc. How many test bikes are left outside in all weathers etc too where earth/ground wires and connections can suffer a bit ? Not many I should think!!!
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Post by sirch345 »

LotusSevenMan wrote:Cheers Sirch.

I missed that thread. Am going to look at having a Yammy RR on hand anyway just in case. The Honda std one hardly looks up to the job does it and the burnt out pic looks horrifying. I have heard of people putting computer fans on other makes of RR too so not just a Honda problem. Fine when all new, but just not up to the long term duty cycles etc. How many test bikes are left outside in all weathers etc too where earth/ground wires and connections can suffer a bit ? Not many I should think!!!
So from that I take it you don't already have a R1 rectifier on your bike :?:
I've come across the computer fan thing, I think they may be on the right track, keeping the unit cooler as the later Storm rectifiers have fins on them :!:
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Post by LotusSevenMan »

Std unit fitted at the moment (on my 20,000 miler bike).
Assume they thought that bolting it to the frame may have helped as a heat sink originally. Wrong!!!!!!!!!!
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Post by sirch345 »

LotusSevenMan wrote: Assume they thought that bolting it to the frame may have helped as a heat sink originally. Wrong!!!!!!!!!!
You are probably right there :!:
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Post by LotusSevenMan »

Well, decided to 'get-one-anyway' so have bought a 'pre-owned' Yamaha R/R off of eBay just to be sure. I really don't like the pic (nor the assumed smell) of the Honda 'toaster' as seen in the link above!!!
Last edited by LotusSevenMan on Mon Oct 30, 2006 6:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by sirch345 »

LotusSevenMan wrote:Well, decided to 'get-one-anyway' so have bought a 'pre-owned' Yamaha R/R off of eBay just to be sure. really don't like the pic (nor the assumed smell) of the Honda 'toaster' as seen in the link above!!!
Sounds like a good idea to me :!: I've got an R1 item ready to fit myself, even though I carry a spare standard Honda item on the bike.

If you've not read it already, someone on here said you don't need to cut the old Honda terminal block off and solder on new spade connectors, if you are careful you can release the original connectors using a small screwdriver, insulate and re-use them :!:
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Post by skidonald »

Watching R1/R6 reg/rec's on Ebay so I can change mine and came across these. I assume these are the updated version and are a direct replacement for original. Has anyone tried these before I part with my cash

Edit: Forgot to add the link
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... %3AIT&rd=1
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Post by LotusSevenMan »

Well now have my R6 one that arrived in the post from eBay. Can't see the point 'Skidonald' in paying three times the amount for the one you linked to here when the R1/R6 one will do the trick!!! It's really not too much work to change the wiring over. :)
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Post by LotusSevenMan »

OK, job done and it took about half an hour including getting the tools etc etc. Mine hadn't failed (yet!) but at 20,000 miles I thought it has had a few on off cycles in its time.
I was amazed how hot it actually gets in use. See the pic of the yellowing Honda plug due to that heat!!!

I was going to use the original spade terminals and eased them out OK from the connector block (small screwdriver in from the front to raise the plastic tang) but decided to go the route as advised due to the close proximity of these terminals and the need to insulate them etc. So soldered ends and crimped terminals using a proper ratcher crimp tool that won't release until the correct pressure has been applied. Not an expensive tool, but oh so much better than the cheap-jack ones I've seen around.
I used the original top mounting position and angled the R/R so as to:- a) leave the indicator relay on its original mounting position, b) allow the possibility of the bikes forward motion pushing some air through the fins (not a lot but better than nought), and c) the terminals are angled down to the rear so less chance of water ingress. I think this is possible here due to the R6 unit being slightly less long and having angled corners when compared to the R1 unit. The central 'potted' component part on this R6 R/R is the same size as the Honda one (but who knows what's inside that black blob?).

All fitted as per the superb sticky so a big "Thankyou" there to 'Beast'! Only other thing needed was a longer bolt for the single point fixing as the originals are too short!
Image

And now

Image
Last edited by LotusSevenMan on Sat Nov 11, 2006 1:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by sirch345 »

Nice one Chris :!: I see you have crimped the new spade conectors on, not soldered them :!: I was thinking about using the original connectors with some heat shrink sleeving when I change mine over, would you have done that if you had some sleeving :?:

I'd be interested to know what the voltage readings are now with the R1 unit :!:

Cheers,

Chris.
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Post by LotusSevenMan »

I have heat shrink, but decided that as the original connectors had changed colour along with the copper wire colour due to heat (yeah, really) that it was better to start afresh. Thought the h/s might not be up to it. Probably would be but........................???
As to voltages with an R1 unit well I can't tell you ................ this is an R6!

Did a quick check and I would say that the voltages are similar at tickover but lower by about .2-3 volt than the Honda VTR one & at higher RPM about the same albeit about .2 volt less. So far so good eh? You can feel the heat on the fins though. Amazing really that Honda got it so wrong!!!!

I need to check it out when all warm after a good run really. I'll post again when I find out for sure.
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Post by sirch345 »

That's a good enough reason to fit new connectors I would say :!:

I'm pretty sure the R1 & R6 unit are the same around that year, the reason I say that is when I was looking for mine I checked out the part numbers on Ron Ayers site and they were the same :!:

Glad too hear it all seems to be OK :!:

Chris.
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