First V-Twin never look back but slight missfire 6000 rpm

streetf2 · Post by **streetf2** » Tue Jan 30, 2007 8:06 pm

I can really say i will never buy an in line 4 again,V-Twin is so much fun. I am in the middle of a big project on my storm well big for my first go and waiting for some parts,So i should start and think of some problems i had before i started.The bike when i got it had 30000 miles on the clock god knows what service history.But it would not rev past 6000 rpm.Also the clutch will bite like crazey if you try to pull off fast with high revs and slip it.I changed the plugs and it would rev past 6000 rpm if i fethered the throtle just before i expected the missfire,so i then messed with the mixture i could by making it leaner ride straight through and pull really hard up to 10000 with no missfire but it was really lumpy at low revs so i settled for a compromise.ok low revs good torque, slight shutting of of throttle just before 6000 to get it to rev above that.I am not sure if i have the standard jets in as the bike is fitted with a KN and was messed with before i brought it.As to the clutch i aint got a clue.Even with these problems i love the bike to bits,Any help would be appreciated.

Zer0Zer0 · Post by **Zer0Zer0** » Tue Jan 30, 2007 9:05 pm

balance the carbs??
sticking slide/s also carbs??

Post by **sirch345** » Tue Jan 30, 2007 11:11 pm

The last guy on here who had a miss-fire from 6,000rpm it turned out to be the front and rear cylinder were not timed (valve timing) in conjunction with each other. It appears it was a garage who replaced one CCT only and hadn't thought about checking that

Here's the link:-

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB2/viewtopic ... sc&start=0

Chris.

bacharach · Post by **bacharach** » Wed Jan 31, 2007 11:27 am

When I bought my firestorm it had the same problem, it felt like riding with a rev limiter on. when i changed the cam chain tensioner the mechanic checked the timing and it was out. I think it is normally it is caused when someone changes the tensioner and rotates the rear wheel, moving the engine and altering the timing.
After the timing was fixed the bike ran perfectly and still have no problems with misfireing after 50,000 miles. Still pops though but i don't mind that.
Hope this helps
Burt

Stratman · Post by **Stratman** » Wed Jan 31, 2007 6:22 pm

Can confirm I had a misfire @ 6000 rpm and it was the valve timing that was out by one tooth. Corrected that (well, Mr Honda delaer did anyway( and all was fine again.

streetf2 · Post by **streetf2** » Wed Jan 31, 2007 8:32 pm

firstly thanks for your advice im going to check valve timing,although mabe beyond me reading some of the posts.was thinking of putting bike back together then taking to honda dealer but im now wondering without really knowing whats envolved is the job of checking timing easier with the engine out because i am just installing the engine or could the job be done correctly by a dealer with the bike back together.Or possibly i could take just the engine to a dealer to get them checked what ya reckon.

Stratman · Post by **Stratman** » Thu Feb 01, 2007 8:49 am

Checking/adjusting the valve timing could be done with the engine in or out as it is a manual thing. If you have the engine back in then it will cost you more at a dealer as they will have to remove lots of stuff to get at the cam chains, which is all labour costs.

Bloody heavy lump to take to them, but it could be done that way.

KarlosVTR · Post by **KarlosVTR** » Thu Feb 01, 2007 3:00 pm

well how do you overcome the ferocious biting of the clutch?? mine has nearly torn my sack off its been so violent. clutch lever has stayed in the same place, just a quick bite now and again. bled the clutch too and it didnt cure it.

Post by **sirch345** » Thu Feb 01, 2007 3:15 pm

streetf2 wrote:firstly thanks for your advice im going to check valve timing,although mabe beyond me reading some of the posts.was thinking of putting bike back together then taking to honda dealer but im now wondering without really knowing whats envolved is the job of checking timing easier with the engine out because i am just installing the engine or could the job be done correctly by a dealer with the bike back together.Or possibly i could take just the engine to a dealer to get them checked what ya reckon.

As Stratman says valve timing can be done with the engine in or out, but it would be easier if you still had it out, only because the front cam cover is a little awkward to get at, but that's all.

I would say going by what you have already done with your bike, that you would be capable of removing the cam covers and checking the valve timing yourself, as that's imo reasonably straight forward to do. If however the timing needs to be adjusted, then that is a bit more complicated, but you may find it doesn't need adjusting. So it's up to you really.

If you do decide to do it yourself, either myself or another member from here can explain the procedure.

Hope that helps,

Chris.

streetf2 · Post by **streetf2** » Thu Feb 01, 2007 7:25 pm

Thanks i going to have a go at the week end to check valve timing i know i got to remove the cam covers but aint got a clue where cct are lurking i got a haines manual but not sure how well it covers this subject as i cant read it till i get back to the bike .As to the clutch well i agree rip your arms off and weelie all in split second and can catch you out in crowded car park full of bikes i once tried to pull out of a junction in front of oncoming car would of been no problem on the old zx9 but it decided to engage instead of slipping and i did a procesion of bunny hops across the road scared the s--t out of me as i could not shut of because of approaching car .serves me right and i dont do it any more.

streetf2 · Post by **streetf2** » Fri Feb 02, 2007 8:15 pm

Right i have now poped off the covers and checked the timing and well the rear seams to line up perfectly and the front is not quite. When i say that it only seams less than a tooth out meaning if i was to try and get it closer it would be further out the other way.now dont know what to do.

Post by **sirch345** » Fri Feb 02, 2007 9:19 pm

streetf2 wrote:Right i have now poped off the covers and checked the timing and well the rear seams to line up perfectly and the front is not quite. When i say that it only seams less than a tooth out meaning if i was to try and get it closer it would be further out the other way.now dont know what to do.

It's possible to be out one tooth only, without seeing it, it's hard to say.

What I was saying earlier was checking to make sure both cylinders are timed in conjunction with each other. To do that time up the rear cylinder using the markings on the flywheel and lining up the cam wheels making sure the marks on the cam wheels are facing in the right direction (check with your Haynes manual), if they are not you will need to turn the engine over 360 degrees one complete turn Anti clockwise, then once that is done and everything is lined up correctly on the rear cylinder rotate the engine 450 degrees (one and a quarter turns) ANTI clockwise, at that point (more or less) the timing marks for the front cylinder on the flywheel should be lining up, once those are lined up then check the cam wheels are lined up and the marks are facing in the right direction, if all that is correct then both cylinders are timed in conjunction with each other.

I would do that first and see if that's correct, before worrying about the front one appearing that it may be slightly out, if the cam-chain is worn the cam wheel marks will not line up exactly anyway

NOTE:- DO NOT Turn the engine over the wrong way as it will put extra load onto the CCT's (cam chain tensioners) always turn it over ANTI-CLOCKWISE

Chris.

streetf2 · Post by **streetf2** » Fri Feb 02, 2007 9:41 pm

Thanks again i did check they where in time with each other as you described first the rear timed tdc and ri/re inline facing away then as per manual 1 1/4 turns to front tdc and the fi/fe lines are facing away from each other but not perfectly inline and level with heads i would say about 2mm or 1 or 2 degrees you can see they dont line up but think one tooth will be to much.To get them to line up i have to move the marks on the crank at least 5 or 6 mm past tdc but thats with cct in place

KarlosVTR · Post by **KarlosVTR** » Sat Feb 03, 2007 10:48 am

have you tried a new chain? perhaps the stretch is a little more than the cct can take up

Post by **sirch345** » Sat Feb 03, 2007 1:14 pm

streetf2 wrote:Thanks again i did check they where in time with each other as you described first the rear timed tdc and ri/re inline facing away then as per manual 1 1/4 turns to front tdc and the fi/fe lines are facing away from each other but not perfectly inline and level with heads i would say about 2mm or 1 or 2 degrees you can see they dont line up but think one tooth will be to much.To get them to line up i have to move the marks on the crank at least 5 or 6 mm past tdc but thats with cct in place

Well at least you now know that's not the problem

As for the front cylinder cam wheels not lining exactly it's really up to you, the only way you are going to really know is by adjusting it by one tooth

either doing it yourself, or popping the cam covers back on and taking it to someone. I would have thought you will be able to do it yourself, considering what you have already achieved, including following the workshop manual to check the valve timing. If you do decide to adjust it yourself don't blame me if something goes wrong

make sure whatever happens the cam chain is kept taut, so that it doesn't drop of the crankshaft

Chris.

VTR1000.ORG

First V-Twin never look back but slight missfire 6000 rpm

First V-Twin never look back but slight missfire 6000 rpm

misfire at 6000 rpm