Gauge removal killing my lights

OziOsborne · Post by **OziOsborne** » Sun Mar 18, 2007 7:00 pm

First off hello everyone, Ive been reading this forum for over a year now but have never posted so I thought Id join in. After a little spill at around 65mph I decided it would be easier (and cheaper) to go the streetfighter route than to replace all the fairings so I tossed on one of the Acerbis Diamond headlights which left no room for the stock gauge cluster. I pulled out the whole gauge cluster to be replaced with something later but now, without the gauges hooked in, the running lights (front and back) and the turn signals no longer work. The highbeams and the brake lights still work though. Any electrical wizards out there know how to bypass whatever relay is in the gauge cluster so I dont have to leave it plugged in? Is there maybe something in the gauge cluster I can pull out and leave hooked up to complete the circuit? I rebuilt the bike without a problem (whole front end and a few side elements) but throw a bunch of wires at me and Im about as smart as a potato. I appreciate any help I can get on this before I try just running random wires and blowing out the fuses (okay I actually already tried that and blew out all the fuses). Thanks guys.

SILVER ZIPPER · Post by **SILVER ZIPPER** » Sun Mar 18, 2007 7:39 pm

Id love to help but spark's are beyond me.
sorry
King Edward

Post by **sirch345** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 1:53 pm

Welcome aboard Ozi

I think your question is rather a tall order, I very much doubt anyone will have a quick fix for your problem. I would suggest you get a workshop manual and have a look at the wiring diagram, I know that's not going to be straight forward but may be your only way

Cheers,

Chris.

richard · Post by **richard** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 9:31 pm

hi ozi,

no easy win on this as sirch said - its one of those things that if some one has done this before then you will get a post and all the thinking will be done for you - otherwise your in pioneering territory. One thing you could do is take it to any auto-electrician they can simply find out whats missing and bridge the gaps with wires / relays / diodes etc.

if you get the shop manual it will show you the wiring routes and wire colours. and you can see what you have taken away in the instrument panel.

I would put the guages back on - either cut the bikini fairing or make a new subframe to fit fairing or clocks...

rs

LotusSevenMan · Post by **LotusSevenMan** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 9:48 pm

What chance you wiring back the originals and then removing bits to see what is killing it?
Sort of job that requires time, patience and a good understanding of a digital meter and wiring!!!

beckster · Post by **beckster** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 10:49 pm

Hello and welcome,the first place i would look would be the fuse box and check all the fuses.Secondly,check the bulb in the running light and the switch on the bars.If none of the indicators are not working and its not a fuse look at the indicator relay beside the reg/rec at the rear of the bike.

As far as i am aware there are no relays in the clocks.

Look for the easiest things first then work backwards,no point in giving yourself a headache if you don't need to.

OziOsborne · Post by **OziOsborne** » Wed Mar 21, 2007 12:02 am

Thanks for all of the input guys, I appreciate the help. However, considering after the rebuild Im still fighting with way too soft of forks and that damn fuel tank gremlin that makes it run lean and die alot everytime I remove and put back on the fuel tank (oh I hate that one the most), Ive decided to give in and let a professional do this one for me. Ive got a lot of bigger bugs to focus on first but thanks again.

Pete.L · Post by **Pete.L** » Wed Mar 21, 2007 10:58 am

Hi Ozi

Welcome Aboard

Re your tank problem making it run lean. Do you have the vacuum pipe on the correct connector on the fuel tap? It should be attached to the connection coming out the left hand side of the tap (Sat on the bike) and not on the one which points down.
Just a thought.

Pete.l

OziOsborne · Post by **OziOsborne** » Wed Mar 21, 2007 8:57 pm

Okay, to verify what your saying pete... There are two larger hoses, which if im not mistaken run to the carbs, a thin and medium hose which are breather hoses (easily identified by the fact they go nowhere and just hang down the side) and a thin vaccum hose. Now, ignoring the two breather hoses, i thought the setup required the two large carb hoses to go on the left and right and the small vaccum hose to connect to the bottom. Im only concerned about putting it on the side instead of the bottom because if I remember correctly the bottom connector is smaller than the two sides and the carb hose doesnt look like it even fits there. if Im over analyzing and totally wrong let me know (infact i think Ill try fiddling with the hoses and switching them around tonight to see if your right). The other thing which I think might be contribing though to the lack of vaccum pressure is the leak I found this morning coming from the sensor under the tank (the one that has the electrical wires coming out of it). Hopefully taking it off and adding some sealant around the screws will fix that and make the tank airtight again. Anyways, as always, I appreciate the help (especially since there are so few people to go to about the hawk in the US, everyone is too busy buying up the latest gixxer or R1).

Pete.L · Post by **Pete.L** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 8:22 am

How did the fiddling go?
I'll bet the vacuum problem is fixed

Any luck with the leak?

Pete.l

OziOsborne · Post by **OziOsborne** » Fri Mar 23, 2007 12:03 am

As far as the fiddling, I fixed the leaky seal underneath the tank (the guys I had paint the tank had been nice enough to get the seal dirty so it wouldnt lay flat) and the bike is definatly running smoother and sounds less "poppy" in the exhaust, although it wasnt a perfect fix. It will still choke and die after idling for awhile and occassionally when Im rolling on the throttle it will die. Smoother and stalls with less frequency but still not a perfect fix... id say Im 70% there. So a little more fiddling left to do, hopefully ill stumble across the problem soon (Im hoping that grit they got on the seal didnt also end up in one of the injectors... remains to be seen).