Front Cam Cover Help

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Wildfire
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Front Cam Cover Help

Post by Wildfire »

Started to prep the bike for the CCT change following my 'rattly' noise..(See thread elsewhere).
I've read the sticky on CCT's but still want to take the front cover off to do a visual check of the camchain etc.
I've dropped the Oil Cooler forward as per Haynes manual but I dont see how I can check timing ect properly as the rads are in the way....

Q1.Is there a short cut around this without draining coolant etc or am I as well to take them off altogether ?

Reason I want to check anyway is my mate is not convinced that the CCT's are the problem...He keeps saying the noise is at the same rate as the engine and if it was a camchain issue the noise would be at 1/2 rate ...Dont know if this makes sense to anyone?
His other possible explanation for the noise is little end bearing...But can't think one would go at 24k...Oil level is OK just due for changing.

Q2. I never mentioned this on previous post but last time I ran the bike the noise became more noticeable once the oil had warmed up and thinned out... Any Idea's what else to check for whilst its in dry dock ??

BTW I now know the rear cct has a white dot but the front has a pink one so I assume it has been changed in the recent past.

Sorry for post length, but funds require me to fix this myself rather than get a dealer to do it and I need all the help I can get.

Thanks guys 8)
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Stratman
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Post by Stratman »

I did mine without draining the coolant. Memory a little vague, but I seem to recall just stuffing a rag in the hose. As its at the top there wasn't much leakage etc, then I topped up the coolant later.

Is a bit of a bugger to get to. A word from the wise - don't overtighten the cam cover pillar bolts - they can break and then its a real pain! Luckily I sheared a rear cylinder one and it was accessible to drill out, but a front one would be an engine out jobby I would imagine
Two bikes, still only four cylinders!

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sirch345
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Post by sirch345 »

Reason I want to check anyway is my mate is not convinced that the CCT's are the problem...He keeps saying the noise is at the same rate as the engine and if it was a camchain issue the noise would be at 1/2 rate ...Dont know if this makes sense to anyone?
His other possible explanation for the noise is little end bearing...But can't think one would go at 24k...Oil level is OK just due for changing.


I would doubt it is the small end bearing myself, but it is possible. I would check the valve clearances first, before you go removing the cylinder-head :!: If they've not been checked at the 16,000 mile service that could be your problem. Personally without hearing your noise I still wouldn't rule out it being the CCT. You could (using the correct procedure) swap the CCT's over and see if the noise has moved to the rear cylinder :!:

I've removed the front cam cover as you are doing it, and also done it with removing the carbs. IMO it is much easier to get to the front cylinder doing it the latter way. If you already have the tank and airbox removed, you can remove the carbs by just taking off the two throttle cables and removing the wiring plug for the throttle sensor. Slacken off the top inlet rubber clamp on each carb, then you can wiggle them free. (when re fitting, use a little lubrication such as WD40 on the inlet rubbers) I didn't remove the coolant hose from the carbs, but found it possible (with a little patience and moving them about) to remove the rest of the plastic covers to give you access to the front cylinder. If you are not good at remembering how it all fitted when you come to fit it back together, DO take some photo's first :!: Also remember to plug up the inlet rubbers with an old clean rag in each one, so nothing can drop into them while the carbs are off:!:

BTW I now know the rear cct has a white dot but the front has a pink one so I assume it has been changed in the recent past.
No I don't think so :!: Mine were exactly the same when I replaced them, I think the rear dot is just exposed to the elements much more than the front one, hence the rear dot colour has faded.

HTH,

Chris.
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Wildfire
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Post by Wildfire »

Bit further on now.... :)

New CCt's are in without removing the front cam cover...Rear chain & cams looked good and we (my mate & I) decided that front camchain should be OK.
Just need to re-build which will probably be at the weekend and fingers crossed.
Front CCT's appeared to be OK on removal and it had tension in it but as I picked up the noise early I suspect that if that was the problem then I got it early enough :?:

Just a thought....If it was the valve clearances (pretty certain they were done at 16k but you never know) would just the front be out and not the rear or should they wear at roughly similar rates ??....The noise is definately front biased and seems to be lower down than the head from what I recall :?:

Anyway plan is to re-build and see if the noise has gone....If not then I guess its valve clearances as next check...Think that may be a winter project :?
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sirch345
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Post by sirch345 »

Wildfire wrote:Bit further on now.... :)
Just a thought....If it was the valve clearances (pretty certain they were done at 16k but you never know) would just the front be out and not the rear or should they wear at roughly similar rates ??
I can understand your way of thinking, but I checked my valve clearances at 16,000mls and only one valve needed re-shiming :!: So the answer to your question is NO they don't all wear at the same rate :!:

Chris.
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Pete.L
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Post by Pete.L »

sirch345 wrote:
Wildfire wrote:Bit further on now.... :)
Just a thought....If it was the valve clearances (pretty certain they were done at 16k but you never know) would just the front be out and not the rear or should they wear at roughly similar rates ??
I can understand your way of thinking, but I checked my valve clearances at 16,000mls and only one valve needed re-shiming :!: So the answer to your question is NO they don't all wear at the same rate :!:

Chris.
And to add to that. As a general rule of thumb the valve clearances normally get smaller as the bike does more miles and the engine gets quieter. The reason for this is the valves slowly bash their way into the cyclinder head over time and this moves the buckets closer to the cam lobes.
A quiet engine with too tight a valve clearance is more dangerous than a noisey one with too large a clearance. Too small of a gap can eventually stop the valve from closing properly and then the valve and port start to burn. Too large a clearance will only cause a drop in performance.

Pete.l
My new ride is a bit of a Howler and I love to make her Squeal
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Wildfire
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Post by Wildfire »

Thanks for everyones advice....
Fitted the CCT's and fired her back up today....Just a quick ride round the block but the noise certainly seems to have gone :D

Just need to take her for a proper run to be doubly safe then I'll be taking the good lady wife to wales for the day soon 8)
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LotusSevenMan
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Post by LotusSevenMan »

Wildfire wrote:Thanks for everyones advice....
Fitted the CCT's and fired her back up today....Just a quick ride round the block but the noise certainly seems to have gone :D
Just need to take her for a proper run to be doubly safe then I'll be taking the good lady wife to wales for the day soon 8)
That's good and reassuring news to hear about the CCT's (or maybe that should be 'not to hear'!!)

Just taking her there eh? Good idea to leave her in Wales and you come back alone?
I'll get me coat shall I?
"Only ride as fast as your guardian angel can fly" !!!
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Wildfire
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Post by Wildfire »

LotusSevenMan wrote: Just taking her there eh? Good idea to leave her in Wales and you come back alone?
:lol:
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