Brake bleeding.........Help!!

Beebug52 · Post by **Beebug52** » Sat Jan 26, 2008 1:00 pm

Any one got any ideas on how to make this job easy? Been out in the garage for the last hour? and it ain't happening. got one of those 'Bleed eeze' bottle things but it don't seem to be doing anything

fishface · Post by **fishface** » Sat Jan 26, 2008 1:56 pm

if its the front tie lever back and leave over night
all depends on how brake lines are set up
i bleed the one furthest from m/c first

Zakalwe · Post by **Zakalwe** » Sat Jan 26, 2008 3:15 pm

Get yourself one of these....makes brake bleeding a cinch!

Beebug52 · Post by **Beebug52** » Sat Jan 26, 2008 5:46 pm

Thanks guys.........

RedStormV · Post by **RedStormV** » Sat Jan 26, 2008 7:49 pm

Hi,

Use traditional method myself, but I am thinking of sourcing 'spare' reservoir caps for brakes and clutch, which I can modify to fit on the Ezeebleed I use for the car.

If you have trouble with the lever firming up (especially on clutch for some reason?), try loosening the top banjo and then giving lever a squeeze, often get an air block at this point (Gravity you know).

I bled my clutch a few weeks ago after replacing slave cylinder seal and had replaced all fluid and then some - still not a firm lever.

Loosened top banjo, quick squeeze or two and Robert's your Father's brother - lovely firm clutch lever!

HTH

Graeme.

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warby221 · Post by **warby221** » Sat Jan 26, 2008 11:55 pm

RedStormV wrote: Loosened top banjo, quick squeeze or two and Robert's your Father's brother - lovely firm clutch lever!

Good advice that storm i have an old VFR and itâ€™s a bugger to bleeding if you've had to work on the clutch

A top tip I got of a m8 of mine to if your struggling to get a firm lever is
To back bleed it

bleed as normal if its still a bit naff leave it over night fill a syringe with brake fluid connect to the bleed nipple with a bit of stiff tubing
Then with the lever full out and the brake cap off push the fluid in to the slave cylinder it forces out the air in to the master cylinder were it dissipates
Itâ€™s worked well on the viffer

VTRgirl · Post by **VTRgirl** » Sun Jan 27, 2008 2:12 am

Then put a bandaid on it.

Beebug52 · Post by **Beebug52** » Sun Jan 27, 2008 8:45 am

Hee Hee......I already did that VTRgirl

Thanks for the tips peeps

One thing tho (Storm) I did what you said and undid the banjo bolt from the M/S and expected there to be a fizz of air? and the brake fluid to almost spurt out but infact just a slight amount of brake fluid weeped out. I removed the whole bolt and squeezed the lever but only a small dribble came out not a spurt as I would have imagined.

Also, there is one point, I did have an accident and the bike came down on the Rt hand side - although I can't see any external damage to the M/S, was wondering if anything had happened to the unit. Does anyone have any ideas on how much fluid should come out on a squeeze of the lever?

RedStormV · Post by **RedStormV** » Sun Jan 27, 2008 9:51 am

Hi,

I doubt the fall has damaged the MC unless you can see any external damage.

The inner diameter of the hydraulic system is only small, however the amount of fluid expelled will depend on how much pressure you're exerting on the lever, and how far open you have the bleed nipple or banjo bolt.

*NB* the standard front brake lines have a junction and rise where bubbles can gather, this might also be somewhere to try loosening the banjo.

You should only have to loosen the banjo slightly for fluid and / or air to escape when you squeeze the lever (gently).

Do not remove the banjo completely.

I don't want to teach anyone to suck eggs, but here are a couple of links worth reading, especially for someone who's attempting to either bleed brakes for the first time or who's not too sure of the procedure and for anyone wanting to replace the existing brake lines.

Bleeding Brakes go for method 4 or method 2.

Replacing Brake Lines Especially Stormin' Ben's post.

HTH

Graeme.

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