layed up but cant lay out
layed up but cant lay out
Hi guys, Ime having trouble getting my "storm" to run..It has been laid up for about a year, but started every month, but just when i want to use it... it only runs on the front cylinder, Ive changed the fuel, plugs Iridium ones, air cleaner ,I have a great spark at the rear cylinder....... and ive sprayed some of that carb cleaner stuff down the bores ect, but not sure if that stuffs any good.........whats next? I wanna get riding, I cant afford dealer prices at the moment... any advise would be great..i wanna get dirt on my visor not my pinkies
"Have a good time .......all the time!"
Theres a link to a pdf manual, somewhere on the forum.
I have it myself, and was about to use it to strip, my carbs, before i realised id stuck the vacuum hose on the wrong bit!
Seemed fairly good instructions, from what i can remember.
I seem to remember from a post somewhere, some guy had a similar problem, and traced it to a faulty or stuck diaphragm/slider!?
I have it myself, and was about to use it to strip, my carbs, before i realised id stuck the vacuum hose on the wrong bit!
Seemed fairly good instructions, from what i can remember.
I seem to remember from a post somewhere, some guy had a similar problem, and traced it to a faulty or stuck diaphragm/slider!?
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RedStormV
- Posts: 1372
- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2007 9:41 pm
- Location: West Yorks (Bronte Country) - Home of the Negro Lesbian Cornet Players
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Hi mate,
As already said, sounds like a carburation problem.
If it won't start with carb cleaner it's unlikley to start with owt - that stuff's well flammable!
Never done the Storm carbs but did strip 'n' clean wor lass' Gixer 600 carbs a few weeks ago, bike had been stood at least 6 years, carbs were all siezed solid on butterflies and sliders.
Not too difficult to do really, my 1st time on a modern 'complex' carb and had no bother. Haven't re-balanced them yet but they all run fine.
Get yourself a small glass jar (small Kenko coffee jar) or a ramikin, something you can spray a load of carb cleaner into to use as a soak bath for jets 'n' stuff. If it has a lid, great, you can swirl the bits about in there. As you remove the jets and small items, pop them in here for a soak before cleaning up and checking they're clear.
Don't use a plastic container, the carb cleaner will eat it, seriously!
Some long nosed pliers might be a good idea, to gently fish the bits out of the jar.
An old (or new) toothbrush or similar will come in handy, perhaps a small bottle brush or a small suede brush? the ones with the fine brass bristles. Use this for the float bowl and larger items if they're 'varnished' with old petrol. Spary CC on and gently scrub away the varnish.
If you have an odd bit of flex (mains wire) kicking around, one of the strands out of this may also be needed for the very very fine holes on some of the jets.
Only if squirting CC down the jet from either end don't clear it, use the thin wire strand, but be very careful not to snap it in the jet, or to 'broddle' about too much, you really only want to free the blockage. Too much 'broddling' could alter the size of the jet.
[Edit 2] You might find that wire strand is too flexible (pretty sure I did thinking about it) I also tried fuse wire but didn't have thick enough (high amperage) to be 'inflexible' enough either. I ended up using a bristle from a wire brush, with it being steel and not copper, it had enough strength not to bend when pusing it down the jet.[Edit End]
Be very careful removing the diaphragms, they're quite flexible but easily torn.
Also, when removing the needle valve seat, (needle valve is the squarish pointy bit dangling on the float assembly) gently turn the brass seat to remove it, don't try prising it out, there's an 'o' ring in there that although it's quite thick, could easily break if seat is prised out rather than twisted out gently. If they're owt like Gixxer carbs, there'll be a small retaining screw and washer to remove on the edge of the seat first.
Finally, lots of 'blue roll' or kitchen roll, a nice clean, clear area to work (Kitchen table if the wife allows) and some newspaper (to cover table). Also a small container to put all the screws and jets etc in as you strip the carb down. Perhaps 2 containers, 1 for the mucky bits and one to put them in once cleaned.
[Edit] Hmmm, just a thought, but if you're going to clean 'em, do both, even though only one causing bovver at moment, might save you having to repeat the process on the front one later
With the Gixxer carbs it was a lot easier to keep them as a unit of 4 and just remove the float bowls, slides, jets etc, rather than splitting each carb off the others. This also saves a lot of time and messing about trying to set up the choke and throttle bars etc.
If you can keep the Storm carbs together and still get to everything, do so. Without looking at my donor bike set, couldn't tell you if this is do-able or not. No doubt someone on here will though. [Edit end]
*NB* once you put all the bits back, you'll more than likely have to re-balance the carbs. A lot easier on a twin than a 4 or even a CBX!!!
You might find this a useful read:
http://www.bikerlifestyle.co.uk/ipb2/in ... topic=5836
This is very good too (with pics):
http://users.rcn.com/kochc/moto/carb/carb.html
This is a bit long winded.
http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/Carb_Clean.htm ... rb%20Parts.
Here's the link for the manuals & fiche:
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=9413
HTH
Graeme.
*
As already said, sounds like a carburation problem.
If it won't start with carb cleaner it's unlikley to start with owt - that stuff's well flammable!
Never done the Storm carbs but did strip 'n' clean wor lass' Gixer 600 carbs a few weeks ago, bike had been stood at least 6 years, carbs were all siezed solid on butterflies and sliders.
Not too difficult to do really, my 1st time on a modern 'complex' carb and had no bother. Haven't re-balanced them yet but they all run fine.
Get yourself a small glass jar (small Kenko coffee jar) or a ramikin, something you can spray a load of carb cleaner into to use as a soak bath for jets 'n' stuff. If it has a lid, great, you can swirl the bits about in there. As you remove the jets and small items, pop them in here for a soak before cleaning up and checking they're clear.
Don't use a plastic container, the carb cleaner will eat it, seriously!
Some long nosed pliers might be a good idea, to gently fish the bits out of the jar.
An old (or new) toothbrush or similar will come in handy, perhaps a small bottle brush or a small suede brush? the ones with the fine brass bristles. Use this for the float bowl and larger items if they're 'varnished' with old petrol. Spary CC on and gently scrub away the varnish.
If you have an odd bit of flex (mains wire) kicking around, one of the strands out of this may also be needed for the very very fine holes on some of the jets.
Only if squirting CC down the jet from either end don't clear it, use the thin wire strand, but be very careful not to snap it in the jet, or to 'broddle' about too much, you really only want to free the blockage. Too much 'broddling' could alter the size of the jet.
[Edit 2] You might find that wire strand is too flexible (pretty sure I did thinking about it) I also tried fuse wire but didn't have thick enough (high amperage) to be 'inflexible' enough either. I ended up using a bristle from a wire brush, with it being steel and not copper, it had enough strength not to bend when pusing it down the jet.[Edit End]
Be very careful removing the diaphragms, they're quite flexible but easily torn.
Also, when removing the needle valve seat, (needle valve is the squarish pointy bit dangling on the float assembly) gently turn the brass seat to remove it, don't try prising it out, there's an 'o' ring in there that although it's quite thick, could easily break if seat is prised out rather than twisted out gently. If they're owt like Gixxer carbs, there'll be a small retaining screw and washer to remove on the edge of the seat first.
Finally, lots of 'blue roll' or kitchen roll, a nice clean, clear area to work (Kitchen table if the wife allows) and some newspaper (to cover table). Also a small container to put all the screws and jets etc in as you strip the carb down. Perhaps 2 containers, 1 for the mucky bits and one to put them in once cleaned.
[Edit] Hmmm, just a thought, but if you're going to clean 'em, do both, even though only one causing bovver at moment, might save you having to repeat the process on the front one later
With the Gixxer carbs it was a lot easier to keep them as a unit of 4 and just remove the float bowls, slides, jets etc, rather than splitting each carb off the others. This also saves a lot of time and messing about trying to set up the choke and throttle bars etc.
If you can keep the Storm carbs together and still get to everything, do so. Without looking at my donor bike set, couldn't tell you if this is do-able or not. No doubt someone on here will though. [Edit end]
*NB* once you put all the bits back, you'll more than likely have to re-balance the carbs. A lot easier on a twin than a 4 or even a CBX!!!
You might find this a useful read:
http://www.bikerlifestyle.co.uk/ipb2/in ... topic=5836
This is very good too (with pics):
http://users.rcn.com/kochc/moto/carb/carb.html
This is a bit long winded.
http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/Carb_Clean.htm ... rb%20Parts.
Here's the link for the manuals & fiche:
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=9413
HTH
Graeme.
*
Last edited by RedStormV on Fri May 30, 2008 10:06 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Not a good idea using anything to poke around in the jets it’s possible to open them up and alter the fuelling by making the hole biggerRedStormV wrote:
If you have an odd bit of flex (mains wire) kicking around, one of the strands out of this may also be needed for the very very fine holes on some of the jets.
Only if squirting CC down the jet from either end don't clear it, use the thin wire strand, but be very careful not to snap it in the jet, or to 'broddle' about too much, you really only want to free the blockage. Too much 'broddling' could alter the size of the jet.
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Best using compressed air to blow them out or leave them to soak for longer till the gum dissolves
You can use lighter gas to help blow them out to but be very careful for obvious reasons
Hi guys.......the bike is sorted : 
yippee... used the advice given, including the compressed air carefully put the carbs back together, and Bingo she fired up..the best sound in the world...took her down for an mot and passed, had a great ride back...got drowned in the rain but who cares Ime going for a long ride on sunday..carbs could probably need balancing but that can wait...all i can say is many thanks to all the guys who helped me out.......john
yippee... used the advice given, including the compressed air carefully put the carbs back together, and Bingo she fired up..the best sound in the world...took her down for an mot and passed, had a great ride back...got drowned in the rain but who cares Ime going for a long ride on sunday..carbs could probably need balancing but that can wait...all i can say is many thanks to all the guys who helped me out.......john"Have a good time .......all the time!"
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RedStormV
- Posts: 1372
- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2007 9:41 pm
- Location: West Yorks (Bronte Country) - Home of the Negro Lesbian Cornet Players
- Contact:
Great news John,
I bet you feel dead proud of yourself now mate!
Glad to be of assistance.
"Only if squirting CC down the jet from either end don't clear it, use the thin wire strand, but be very careful not to snap it in the jet, or to 'broddle' about too much, you really only want to free the blockage. Too much 'broddling' could alter the size of the jet."
Compressed air is all well and good if you have access to some even if it's just that stuff in a can for PCs. I suppose I could / should have mentioned it I'll consider my wrists slapped Warbs
Although if you read the links I also posted, it mentions it in there at least once.
At least your sorted now mate.
BTW if you're leaving bikes in storage for any length of time, even a few months over Winter, it's best to either drain the tank and carbs completely and just spray a bit of duck oil or WD40 in to protect the surfaces from corrosion or to add some fule stabiliser to a FULL tank.
This helps stop any water in the tank and / or condensation from rusting the insides.
I bet you feel dead proud of yourself now mate!
Glad to be of assistance.
"Only if squirting CC down the jet from either end don't clear it, use the thin wire strand, but be very careful not to snap it in the jet, or to 'broddle' about too much, you really only want to free the blockage. Too much 'broddling' could alter the size of the jet."
Compressed air is all well and good if you have access to some even if it's just that stuff in a can for PCs. I suppose I could / should have mentioned it I'll consider my wrists slapped Warbs
Although if you read the links I also posted, it mentions it in there at least once. At least your sorted now mate.
BTW if you're leaving bikes in storage for any length of time, even a few months over Winter, it's best to either drain the tank and carbs completely and just spray a bit of duck oil or WD40 in to protect the surfaces from corrosion or to add some fule stabiliser to a FULL tank.
This helps stop any water in the tank and / or condensation from rusting the insides.