hmmm may have an issue
hmmm may have an issue
Since the rebuild i have noticed a definate weave at speed from the front and on turning it feels like the front wants to push away from me leaving me with little confidence on the front.
Now i have to ask myself have i done the forks correctly? is ther too much fork oil in them? are they set to hard or could it be the tyre?
BT56 on the front and spins true and fine, guess i will have to wait until it is dry to really test it but i think something may be incorrect with the forks so will have to get them done properly this time and see if that solves it, cheapest option i guess first off at £35.
keep ya posted or any input greatly appreciated
Now i have to ask myself have i done the forks correctly? is ther too much fork oil in them? are they set to hard or could it be the tyre?
BT56 on the front and spins true and fine, guess i will have to wait until it is dry to really test it but i think something may be incorrect with the forks so will have to get them done properly this time and see if that solves it, cheapest option i guess first off at £35.
keep ya posted or any input greatly appreciated
Smile..........it confuses people
http://picasaweb.google.com/Kirk6471/FinalRebuild2#
click above to see the final rebuild !
http://picasaweb.google.com/Kirk6471/FinalRebuild2#
click above to see the final rebuild !
no mate headstock is good, bearing fine and regreased, tyre is fine,
what im thinking is this, if i have put too much fork fluid in and have the compression wound in to far is this making the front end too firm and wanting to push the wheel back out on cornering ? im new when it comes to doing forks and this was my first attempt.
im quiet sure i have too much fluid in them, so would this cause them to want to push the front end away on cornering? it certainly does not feel planted and safe, i will wind out the compression to it's softest to see if that makes things a bit more stable.
what im thinking is this, if i have put too much fork fluid in and have the compression wound in to far is this making the front end too firm and wanting to push the wheel back out on cornering ? im new when it comes to doing forks and this was my first attempt.
im quiet sure i have too much fluid in them, so would this cause them to want to push the front end away on cornering? it certainly does not feel planted and safe, i will wind out the compression to it's softest to see if that makes things a bit more stable.
Smile..........it confuses people
http://picasaweb.google.com/Kirk6471/FinalRebuild2#
click above to see the final rebuild !
http://picasaweb.google.com/Kirk6471/FinalRebuild2#
click above to see the final rebuild !
yes mate, yokes survived so i will get the forks done proffesionally and see if that sorts it, failing that 929 front end, actually im already searching for it lol !
Smile..........it confuses people
http://picasaweb.google.com/Kirk6471/FinalRebuild2#
click above to see the final rebuild !
http://picasaweb.google.com/Kirk6471/FinalRebuild2#
click above to see the final rebuild !
First things first before spending any money
Set-up your static sag and rider sag as described in the post at the top of the workshop section also set-up your damping to the standard settings if things don’t improve then move on
Check every thing
Is the oil level ok, was it set with the forks fully compressed and the springs out, have you used the right weight of oil, have all the spacer tubes and shim washers been put back in there original positions.
If you have checked all the above you’ll have the bike with the springs out and supported under the engine then remove the front wheel and move one fork at a time fully up to fully extended is there any binding is every thing sliding smoothly
Is there a lot of air in the oil when doing this?
Remove the o seal from the fork top bolt so air can escape drop the damper adjuster rod back in to the fork no spring don’t tighten it right down you want the air in the top of the fork to be able to escape then lift on fork at a time and check the damping is working ok it should be a lot harder to extend the fork than to lift it there will be some spring effect as the air is expelled
If there’s no problems found then have some one else look at them for you
This little lot should take you about an hour to do and could save you the £30
Set-up your static sag and rider sag as described in the post at the top of the workshop section also set-up your damping to the standard settings if things don’t improve then move on
Check every thing
Is the oil level ok, was it set with the forks fully compressed and the springs out, have you used the right weight of oil, have all the spacer tubes and shim washers been put back in there original positions.
If you have checked all the above you’ll have the bike with the springs out and supported under the engine then remove the front wheel and move one fork at a time fully up to fully extended is there any binding is every thing sliding smoothly
Is there a lot of air in the oil when doing this?
Remove the o seal from the fork top bolt so air can escape drop the damper adjuster rod back in to the fork no spring don’t tighten it right down you want the air in the top of the fork to be able to escape then lift on fork at a time and check the damping is working ok it should be a lot harder to extend the fork than to lift it there will be some spring effect as the air is expelled
If there’s no problems found then have some one else look at them for you
This little lot should take you about an hour to do and could save you the £30

its big----- its red ------its throbbing and it’s a thousand CC
Also make sure you center the left hand fork leg before tightening the clamp bolts on the wheel spindle. To do this you need to fit the brake caliper's (if they have been removed) and apply the front brake a few times as well as pushing the handle bars up and down to center the fork leg, then tighten the clamp bolts
The righthand fork leg clamp bolts should already be tightened and the wheel spindle before centering the lefthand leg.
HTH,
Chris.

HTH,
Chris.
bit of an off the wall sujestion but are the tires on the right way, i had a rear on my old bandit fitted at a garage on backwards and the bike weaved like a bitch, looked at the wheels, bearings and noticed the arrows on the tire were the wrong way round, took it back to the garage and changed direction...job done, handled fine after.
cheerz
kev
kev
andy c wrote:No truck mechanic
they dont have forks![]()
![]()
fork trucks do





Fork trucks do





The idea is to try out the forks to see if there’s any obvious problem with free movement and damping before pulling them of the bike and shelling out to have some one look at them
If you can see a problem with the way I’ve put some thing let us know some times I what looks ok to me can have others stepping back and going what the hells he on about



And I’ll try and reword it

its big----- its red ------its throbbing and it’s a thousand CC
sorry to jump on the thread but you guys will probably know this. Can you fit the blade RRX forks straight onto the storm.
i.e. are they the same diameter legs as the storm and will they take the same brake calipers? I don't think the mudguards fit but I can live with that for a while.
i.e. are they the same diameter legs as the storm and will they take the same brake calipers? I don't think the mudguards fit but I can live with that for a while.
"military intelligence, two words combined that can't make sense"