Have one but there’s a knack to using them
It spreads the head of the riv link
The hammer and anvil is best left to some one with a mechanical touch
Totally agree, you can buy a tool that makes the job a peice of wee wee or you can take it to meester fix it that has done hundreds. Its a lot of cash to throw away if you fook it up. Mikes a prowarby221 wrote:You need a chain splitter/riveter m8
Have one but there’s a knack to using them
It spreads the head of the riv link
The hammer and anvil is best left to some one with a mechanical touch
well thats the word on the street anyway I see myself as a sensitive intelligent man but with the heart of a clown that causes me to **ck things up right at that crucial moment........'Jim Morrison'
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bikermike1411
- Posts: 162
- Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2008 10:23 pm
- Location: Stockport, Cheshire
Ditto.... use a chain riveting tool if you can get one. Whatever method you do, MAKE SURE YOU DON'T GO TOO FAR! It'll nip up and make the link stiff, at worst it could seize it. Firestormmike's right too - you've got to make sure it spreads from the centre.
Alternatively, you can get split links with a special circlip that goes around the edge of the outside plate between the link pins. I know that if you buy a Regina chain it comes with a hand-riveting link like yours, but if you give them a ring they'll send you a split link alternative. The riveted ones are stronger, but the split link ones are a doddle to fit - i've never had one let go yet. You just need a pair of mole/vise grips to squeeze the plates together so you can slip the circlip on.
Hope this helps!
Alternatively, you can get split links with a special circlip that goes around the edge of the outside plate between the link pins. I know that if you buy a Regina chain it comes with a hand-riveting link like yours, but if you give them a ring they'll send you a split link alternative. The riveted ones are stronger, but the split link ones are a doddle to fit - i've never had one let go yet. You just need a pair of mole/vise grips to squeeze the plates together so you can slip the circlip on.
Hope this helps!
Perseverance takes too long....
Timbo,
I would be inclined to get it done with the proper tool
it is not the thing you want to go snap. there is always the risk with hand riveting that you "will just hit it a few more times" and tighten the link, as for a split (bicycle ) link. I would have one on the push bike but not on the storm. There is a local lad with a split link on his 916 and he wonders why all the lads want to be in front of him on a run. 
Cheers
A.M.
I would be inclined to get it done with the proper tool
it is not the thing you want to go snap. there is always the risk with hand riveting that you "will just hit it a few more times" and tighten the link, as for a split (bicycle ) link. I would have one on the push bike but not on the storm. There is a local lad with a split link on his 916 and he wonders why all the lads want to be in front of him on a run. Cheers
A.M.
Common sense ain't all that common!
Just replaced mine yesterday with a 15 tooth front to help acceleration a bit.
Like you, I expected a split link, but had to rivet the chain.
One thing, if you just remove the L/H footrest and L/H side pipe it pops straight on aready rivetted, so what I did was to rivet it on the workbench, THEN fit it.
It was much eaesier, although to be fair I've never owned or used a riveting tool, so that might be a piece of piss as well.
One tip, the rivets need to be closed up until the side plates on teh rivetted link are the same distance apart as the ones on the rest of the links- measuring with a vernier caliper did the trick. (20.1mm on a 530 Tsubaki chain, although they all vary a bit).
But you might just be better off buying an endless one, which is what I'll do next time.
Like you, I expected a split link, but had to rivet the chain.
One thing, if you just remove the L/H footrest and L/H side pipe it pops straight on aready rivetted, so what I did was to rivet it on the workbench, THEN fit it.
It was much eaesier, although to be fair I've never owned or used a riveting tool, so that might be a piece of piss as well.
One tip, the rivets need to be closed up until the side plates on teh rivetted link are the same distance apart as the ones on the rest of the links- measuring with a vernier caliper did the trick. (20.1mm on a 530 Tsubaki chain, although they all vary a bit).
But you might just be better off buying an endless one, which is what I'll do next time.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
take the chain to a local bike shop and then fit it to the bike after they have linked it for you, you can fit the chain on without to much hassle with the back wheel removed and the front sprocket off; slide the chain and sprocket on together. you will probabley need to move the footrest a bit to if i remember rightly, rotate it out the way to get the chain over it.
cheerz
kev
kev