Wicky wrote: Everything came apart from some super seized bolts on the back off the engine brackets (see gallery) and the one connecting the linkage onto the swingarm - Any tips before I seek either a big honda hammer or professional assistance, which will be tricky as while the swing arm (and linkage) is transportable, the jammed bolts on the back of the engine are problematic as the bike isn't capable of rolling anywhere.
An overnight soak blathered in WD-40 or other preparatory releasing agent.
Try them again.
A copper/hide and/or nylon mallet (hammer) failing that a good sized hammer and sturdy piece of wood so as not to damage head / threads.
If attacking from thread end, put nut over end of thread to protect it just in case.
If that still don't shift them, then you'll need a heat source, like oxy/acetylene or butane/propane blow lamp, or even a hot air paint stripper will do, just takes a little longer.
Heat up the bolt and casing as evenly as possible be very very careful if using oxy as aluminium has a nasty tendancy to give bugger all warning before turning from a solid to a liquid
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When good and hot, get a socket on bolt and a good long tube on ratchet for more leverage (if you don't have a long racthet). If not the bolt end, then hammer / wood or mallet option as above.
Give it another go - you'll probably hear a loud crack as the oxidisation between the steel bolts and alu casing gives way 'et voila'.
*NB* do not, under any circumstances cool the casings or bolts with water or anything, other than air and time. Cooling metals too quickly alters the molecualr structure and can cause them to be weaker than they should be.
Clean all the bolts up with a wire brush and add some 'copper slip' (copper grease) before replacing them in the engine / casing. This will prevent the oxidisation from occuring again.
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When I wanted to fit the R&G crash bungs to mine, both myself and 'larger' mate swung on the full width engine bolt after leaving overnight soaked in releasing agent, with bugger all success.
Using Oxy we heated the end of the engine bolt up from both sides cos that's all we could get to.
Presumably the heat was conducted down the length of the bolt and dissipated into the casing mounts.
When we tried it again there was an almighty 'Crack' and hey presto, the bolt turned.
A little persuasion with a nylon mallet and a drift (when the end of bolt disappeared beyond frame) and it came out fine!
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As BikerPiker has said below, I only ever use single hex sockets if I have them. Sorry, made assumption that you'd know to do that already.
You might invest in one of these babies sometime ....
Gator Grip Sockets
I bought one for father in law a few years ago, works a treat on 'turned' or mis-shaped sockets and bolts.
Another, more expensive option would be sockets that apply the pressure on the flats, not the corners of the nut / bolt - I think original makers name was METRINCH but other companies do them too now.
Pretty sure Bergen do similar idea on their sockets. Mate in engineering / engine reconditioners reckons they don't touch Snap-on any more in favour of Bergen tools. Cheaper and just as good / better.
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HTH
Oh dear .......... It's still running fine
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Rossi, really messes with your mind!!!!! Muaahahahaha
Chapter 6-19