The handbook gives advice on storage but I was wondering if anyone on the forum has stored their bike for this length of time and how easy is it to drain the carbs, can i run the engine until the fuel in the carbs runs out or will this cause any sort of damage. Any advice would be really appreciated.Long time storage of bike.
Long time storage of bike.
Due to an impending back operation and not the winter weather my biking is over for 6 to 9 months The handbook gives advice on storage but I was wondering if anyone on the forum has stored their bike for this length of time and how easy is it to drain the carbs, can i run the engine until the fuel in the carbs runs out or will this cause any sort of damage. Any advice would be really appreciated.
The handbook gives advice on storage but I was wondering if anyone on the forum has stored their bike for this length of time and how easy is it to drain the carbs, can i run the engine until the fuel in the carbs runs out or will this cause any sort of damage. Any advice would be really appreciated.normal people worry me !!
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RedStormV
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- Location: West Yorks (Bronte Country) - Home of the Negro Lesbian Cornet Players
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Hi mate,
Carbs would be better off drained manually as there's still likely to be petrol in float bowls even after engine has cut out. Once drained a good blast of carb cleaner through them to clean off any deposits would be a good idea. I'd then spray internals with WD40 to ward off moisture.
Draining the carbs is straight forward enough, tank off, air box off, carbs off (as one unit) then float bowls off.
As for the tank, there's 2 ways you can tackle it:
Either drain it completely, dry it out (let petrol evaporate), then copious amounts of WD-40 sprayed in and sloshed about to protect it.
Or needs to be topped to near the brim with fuel and then add fuel stabilising additive added to prevent rust. Wynns do one as well as other companies, these should be available from your local motor factors or Charlie Browns.
I'd be inclined to go for the former if you're going to be out of action for more than 2-3 months.
TBH if you have a manual, their storage advice is pretty sound.
HTH
Graeme.
Carbs would be better off drained manually as there's still likely to be petrol in float bowls even after engine has cut out. Once drained a good blast of carb cleaner through them to clean off any deposits would be a good idea. I'd then spray internals with WD40 to ward off moisture.
Draining the carbs is straight forward enough, tank off, air box off, carbs off (as one unit) then float bowls off.
As for the tank, there's 2 ways you can tackle it:
Either drain it completely, dry it out (let petrol evaporate), then copious amounts of WD-40 sprayed in and sloshed about to protect it.
Or needs to be topped to near the brim with fuel and then add fuel stabilising additive added to prevent rust. Wynns do one as well as other companies, these should be available from your local motor factors or Charlie Browns.
I'd be inclined to go for the former if you're going to be out of action for more than 2-3 months.
TBH if you have a manual, their storage advice is pretty sound.
HTH
Graeme.
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RedStormV
- Posts: 1372
- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2007 9:41 pm
- Location: West Yorks (Bronte Country) - Home of the Negro Lesbian Cornet Players
- Contact:
Hiya mate,
Can't remember what the manual says about cylinders / pistons etc for storage, but if I were you, I would spray a good amount of WD-40 down the spark plug ports too, then manually turn engine a few rotations to make sure the cylinders are well coated.
Easiest way to do this would be to raise rear wheel on paddock stand (or jack under engine), put bike into gear (6th ideally) and turn the rear wheel.
Once that's done, a liberal spraying of (you guessed it) WD-40 on everything metallic, frame, swing arm, wheels (not tyres of course) engine, zorts fork tubes fork legs. make sure all nuts, bolt heads and screws you can see get some too. Alternatively smear a bit of grease on the screws etc.
Make sure you don't spray the brake pads - in fact you'd do well to remove the brake pads and store them somewhere, then you can give the calipers a good spray too.
Don't store the bike warm, ie don't run the engine for a bit then put into garage or shed where due to temperature differences condensation may occur.
Don't wash the bike before storing, if it's mucky, spray WD and wipe off with a cloth this will leave a protective layer. For really muddy bits, a paint brush and some paraffin will remove it. You can put paraffin in one of those plastic atomiser (mister) things you get for plants. Ideally stand the bike on cardboard or something which will catch the waste.
A friend of mine with classics, never washes them after riding, merely wipes them down with paraffin and / or WD-40 (well in his case TT spray, same stuff). They sparkle and not a sign of rust, anywhere.
Basically, anything that can rust or corrode, will do unless protected
Can't remember what the manual says about cylinders / pistons etc for storage, but if I were you, I would spray a good amount of WD-40 down the spark plug ports too, then manually turn engine a few rotations to make sure the cylinders are well coated.
Easiest way to do this would be to raise rear wheel on paddock stand (or jack under engine), put bike into gear (6th ideally) and turn the rear wheel.
Once that's done, a liberal spraying of (you guessed it) WD-40 on everything metallic, frame, swing arm, wheels (not tyres of course) engine, zorts fork tubes fork legs. make sure all nuts, bolt heads and screws you can see get some too. Alternatively smear a bit of grease on the screws etc.
Make sure you don't spray the brake pads - in fact you'd do well to remove the brake pads and store them somewhere, then you can give the calipers a good spray too.
Don't store the bike warm, ie don't run the engine for a bit then put into garage or shed where due to temperature differences condensation may occur.
Don't wash the bike before storing, if it's mucky, spray WD and wipe off with a cloth this will leave a protective layer. For really muddy bits, a paint brush and some paraffin will remove it. You can put paraffin in one of those plastic atomiser (mister) things you get for plants. Ideally stand the bike on cardboard or something which will catch the waste.
A friend of mine with classics, never washes them after riding, merely wipes them down with paraffin and / or WD-40 (well in his case TT spray, same stuff). They sparkle and not a sign of rust, anywhere.
Basically, anything that can rust or corrode, will do unless protected
The manual says the very same, I'll put oil down the spark plug holes and turn it over a few times. I use duck oil on my bike and do just what your mate does, keeps it nice and clean with not a sign of corrosion anywhere, I am a bit anal about keeping it clean and well maintained. I recently done the brake overhall recommended in the forum (what a difference) and changed the oil and filter a few days ago, done only a handful of miles since to check all was ok.[/img]http://i416.photobucket.com/albums/pp24 ... mlside.jpg
normal people worry me !!
See what you mean about anal 
Copy into browser if you would like a peek at my bog standard but immaculate low milage firestorm. Can't afford any mods as money goes on keeping it well maintained.