Grrr... Front Brake pad hanger pin end plug won't budge!

JohnD · Post by **JohnD** » Sat Sep 13, 2008 3:12 pm

Hi folks

Went to change the front brake pads today... & have found that the end plug that you have to unscrew before you can unscrew the hanger pin won't budge! It's made of soft metal, & my attempts with a flat head screwdriver are just making a mess of the screw head, & now the screwdriver is slipping.

Anyone got any bright ideas of how I might get the bugger out!

cheers
John

Wicky · Post by **Wicky** » Sat Sep 13, 2008 3:40 pm

If ithe plug pin is beyond hope then you'll need to drill a hole into it for a screw extractor to remove it - remember to centre punch the centre of the plug so you don't wander with the drill.

http://homerepair.about.com/od/interior ... ctor_2.htm

From a fasteners company you should be able to get a stainless allen headed grub screw alternative, that with copper grease should last longer than the cheesey stock part.

http://www.bike-parts.fr/pieces-promo-4 ... 1000-.html

RedStormV · Post by **RedStormV** » Sat Sep 13, 2008 4:24 pm

Hi John,

Suppose you've already tried shocking it? (with screw driver and hammer!

)

If the screw head is a bit gnarled up then use the flat end of a socket extension and hammer to tap it back into place - 1 light tap should be sufficient. Works better on pozi / phillips heads.

Drop of WD-40 on edge of plug and leave it for a couple of hours.

I wouldn't advise using a hairdryer or hot air gun to warm caliper as you might make a mess of the gold paint.

Have you got access to an impact driver? they usually have 2 chunky straight bladed ends, one wide one narrow, they're probably a better fit for the plug screw than standard screw driver blades.

If you have a small punch or drift, you could try drifting it till it turns freely.

Failing that, what Wicky said, you should be able to pick up a set of 4, 5 or 6 screw (stud) extractors from a local motor factors or Charlie Browns for between Â£3 & Â£7. Don't worry if they only have Imperial sizes as they all do the same job.

Graeme.

JohnD · Post by **JohnD** » Sat Sep 13, 2008 4:41 pm

Hey thanks for the swift responses

Have already tried WD40 & shocking / drifting it & still no luck there

Looks like i'm gonna have to butcher it with drill & screw extractor - just hope I don't make even more of a mess of it

bikerpiker · Post by **bikerpiker** » Sat Sep 13, 2008 4:50 pm

Hi mate,
what i've done in the past is use a Dremel or similar,and use a small diameter thin disc to cut a new slot.

If the disc is to big, grind it down till you get the dia you need, this has worked for me in the past, even on smaller screws, ie ,master cylinder screws on my triumph.

I bought a electric multi-tool kit ( at Makro) , similar to dremel for around Â£13 ,it came in an alluminium case with flexible extensions and a load of accesories

Have also used it for cleaning up ends of my standard cans when i removed my baffles

Another way is could also weld a wee bit of steel rod on to the screw end,then just unscrew it.

Ernie Cooley · Post by **Ernie Cooley** » Sat Sep 13, 2008 5:00 pm

http://www.kemfast.com/content/adhesive ... d-new.html

We sell this through our branch in Gatwick, give them a buzz... they take Credit card sales.

JohnD · Post by **JohnD** » Sat Sep 13, 2008 5:39 pm

Ernie Cooley wrote:http://www.kemfast.com/content/adhesive ... d-new.html

We sell this through our branch in Gatwick, give them a buzz... they take Credit card sales.

Hmmm... sounds good. Have you ever used it? If so, does it work well in your experience?

Would be interested to hear.

cheers

Stratman · Post by **Stratman** » Sat Sep 13, 2008 9:03 pm

Impact driver worked for me, but not using impact, just the wide bit and the extra grip the thick handle gave

RedStormV · Post by **RedStormV** » Sat Sep 13, 2008 9:18 pm

Stratman wrote:Impact driver worked for me, but not using impact, just the wide bit and the extra grip the thick handle gave

Aye, always best option before actually clouting it with a 'tapping stick'

Another good one, is if you have square shafted screw drivers, add a spanner or adjustable to get more turning power while your other hand exerts more pressure in keeping the driver in its place.

I have 2 or 3 square shafted drivers but am keeping my eyes open for more at auto jumbles like Rufforth. The ones I have also have steel cap which extends though to the shaft, so they can also have a knock with a tapping stick without worrying about the handle shattering.

Wicky · Post by **Wicky** » Sat Sep 13, 2008 9:26 pm

I think this is the SS 10mm version that will protrude but plug the mangled gap - but still double check the size. http://tiny.cc/iS31m

Only 23p each! Buy a dozen and you'll be set for life

headgear · Post by **headgear** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 1:43 pm

Hi, I had the same problem, I used a small cold chisel in one end of screwdriver slot and with a heavy hammer, one sharp tap and it released and was able to file away the damage from chisel and recut screwdriver slot with hacksaw then reasembled with copperslip after pad change.

JohnD · Post by **JohnD** » Fri Sep 19, 2008 5:26 pm

Borrowed an impact driver & it did the job... must get myself one of these handy tools

thanks everyone for your help!