what have you done to your "bike" today

[Jamoi]

Had a visit from Wicky, came over bearing munch and a multimeter despite the crappy weather.. what a legend

The bike is charging the batt at 14v on tickover, but when the revs increase the voltage to the battery drops to 13ish volts.

Any ideas? We tried another reg/rec but was the same.

I do have a slightly melted/burnt connection on the rec/rec connector from summer 2013 when my sh1t reg/rec went.



Jamie

[MacV2]

Had a visit from Wicky, came over bearing munch and a multimeter despite the crappy weather.. what a legend

The bike is charging the batt at 14v on tickover, but when the revs increase the voltage to the battery drops to 13ish volts.

Any ideas? We tried another reg/rec but was the same.

I do have a slightly melted/burnt connection on the rec/rec connector from summer 2013 when my sh1t reg/rec went.



Jamie

3. BIKE STARTED, LIGHTS ON, RUNNING AT FAST IDLE
Now on to testing the main charging function, the voltage output from the Regulator. Test the voltage with the bike running at fast idle, roughly between 2000 and 5000 rpm, to confirm if it is getting the correct amount of charge from the bike. With the Multimeter set to 20v DC place the meter leads across the Battery as before, if all is healthy you should be getting between 13.5-14.5 volts, an old or tired Battery will be around 13.2 - 14.8 volts if undercharging or overcharging but is of no great concern as of yet, but keep a close eye on things over time to make sure it does not deteriorate. Please note that these voltages will fluctuate depending on temperature and revs.

Rev the bike and the voltage should be at least in the 13's at all engine rpm's and go no higher than around 14.8v. If you are reading 15v or higher it is bad and means that the Regulator is not regulating the extra voltage from the Alternator/Generator and overcharging the Battery. This will start to boil the fluids inside the Battery dry and will eventually leave you stranded. If this is the case then it is likely that you will have to replace the Regulator/Rectifier and the Battery. This also works the opposite way. If the Battery is defective, either dried out or has damaged cells from age or electrical faults, the Regulator will output the maximum it can trying to charge the Battery back up. If this continues for long periods of time then it will eventually damage the Regulator so yet again it is likely that you will have to replace the Regulator/Rectifier and the Battery.

C/O Carl's R/R post in the workshop Knowledge base...

[Jamoi]

What you saying then Mac?

Jamie

[bigtwinthing]

Ran it up, until it was warm, washed it and put it back in the garage!!!!. Still chuffin decorating. I hope to get out this week with the camera on it. Busy week though Daughter is 21 Tuesday, plastering the kitchen wed and thursday. Concreting the floor friday. Away sat is its my Wedding Ann.
Next week, pain the kitchen ready for fitting Monday!

[lloydie]

Test fitted the race fairing and it needs so work around the screen as there's big gaps so I think I'll remodel it a little as I'm putting that much work into it but we'll see !

Tho I might just end up buying a new one

[tony.mon]

Couldn't ignore the knackered head bearings any longer so changed them; while I was there swapped the K-Tech 9.0 springs for standard ones, changed the fork oil, reset the air gap to 110 instead of 90mm, and blended up some 8.5 weight oil to refill them with.

Let's see what that feels like....

This , by the way, a set of 954 forks. i have another pair to set up as a track day set.

[VTRDark]

What you saying then Mac?

He's saying there is nothing wring with those voltages.

Check the voltages throughout the rev range too. I noticed the bike was fine at low revs n Martys yard and the battery drained when at higher speeds when we was on the move.

As long as the burnt connector has a good current flow then it should be fine, though it wouldn't be a bad thing to change it. Stator I would be looking at next to rule out. Do a resistance test on all three wires. You have access to the wires in the bundled loom by the battery.

(:-})

[Jamoi]

Thanks Carl, I figured the reg/reg and battery are OK, so I'll change over the stator/generator for my spare.

I've also ordered a nice looking motobatt and a Mosfet r/r from the Usa.

Still confused as to why the charge voltage would drop as the revs increase.



Jamie

[Jamoi]

p.s I'll research on how to resistance test and what it all means... I've no idea

Jamie

[Jamoi]

Found this on the rsv forum:

"im gonna stick my neck out and say please check the browm block connectores on the RR line from the generator, its usually high resistance that will cause this voltage dropping as the revs get higher...."

So I'll hopefully have high resistance which will indicate the problem

Jamie

[VTRDark]

Still confused as to why the charge voltage would drop as the revs increase.

Because your using more but it shouldn't drop below, preferably 13.5v.

Test 5 in the following
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=28771

(:-})

[Jamoi]

Still confused as to why the charge voltage would drop as the revs increase.

Because your using more but it shouldn't drop below, preferably 13.5v.

Test 5 in the following
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=28771

(:-})

That's the one

So the bike draws more voltage with higher revs? Or the resistance is higher with higher revs?

I just assumed the charge voltage would stay the same or increase slightly with high revs.

Jamie

[Jamoi]

Just had a quick google search and quite a few threads come up for "voltage drop at higher revs".

They all point in the same direction, check for a melted connection between stator & r/r, battery condition and stator condition.

So with my new bits on their way I should have it cracked. I'll follow the diagnosis guide tonight and see if anything is obvious.

Cheers

Jamie

[countrymick]

new mot today time for winter strip down and clanup.

[Mav617]

Put some swingarm bobbins on the TRX, fitted carbon fender extender, replaced the 8mm hex bolts on the engine casing with SS allen bolts, re-routed the front brake hoses and took the screen off to try and clean it, hmm, either a £10 scratch kit or new screen at £40......?

So how are you getting on with the trx ?

Great, thanks Lloydie. The front calipers I changed out for some blue spot ones from a Thundercat, I'll need to strip the rear one and replace the seals and pistons. Everything else is fine, just needs a good clean. Nice to ride but feels underpowered after the Storm.