i have wirth springs in mine as they were on offer at the time at wemoto, plus i saw the hagon's a mate bought & they were fiddler quality, very rough indeed, poor finish, sharp edges etc... heard the same reports from others.
the wirth are very well made, as can be expected from the krauts.
i run 140mm gap and dropped the forks 15mm with no spacer in the back.
with cold tyres at low speed it isn't the best lol, very skittish, but it's very very good at high speed twisties lol, no wandering, effortless leaning, responds well to forced countersteering and doesn't bottom out at all, even under hard braking.
best thing is, the preload and rebound adjustments actually work now!
highly recommended.
agree with what some say about track vs road, linear vs progressive, but with tracks being pothole free with predictable bends its easy to see why linear is best for racing.
WIRTH or Hagon Springs Forks
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benny hedges
- Posts: 6110
- Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:09 pm
- Location: Warrington
Re: WIRTH or Hagon Springs Forks
You do not have to say anything. But it may harm your defence if you do not mention when posting something which you later rely on in quote. Anything you do say may be ripped to sh*t.
Re: WIRTH or Hagon Springs Forks
Hi Dave I've got k-tech progressive 7.5w oil forks can't remember what air gap forks dropped 6mm. big improvement over standard springs I dont bottom out and with the forks drooped 6mm quickens streering up and does make it twichy, rear shock is standard.
RIDE TO ENJOY
Re: WIRTH or Hagon Springs Forks
Is there an idiots guide to changing springs............can you do it with them on bike or do you have to take forks off, and do springs just lift out or is it more complicated than that?
it may be clever, but its not big.
Re: WIRTH or Hagon Springs Forks
Take the forks out, you will need to change the oil and that has to be poured out of the forks.
Paddock stand as normal, and a trolley jack under the front of the engine is OK. But make sure you have undone all the big bolts when front wheel is on the ground [but with jack already under engine, as the forks will drop under weight of bike when you undo the last triple clamp bolt] , as the bike is not super stable on the trolley jack.
Also make sure you slacken the fork tops before you take them out of the triple clamps, much easier than trying to hold them in a vice after you removed them.
go slow and make sure you cover the tank and fairing as you will be leaving the clip-ons resting there while the forks are out............common sence and a bit of care and it is easy task to remove the forks.
once out tops off, springs & spacers out, empty out the oil & drain well, give it a good clean.
then refil with oil to the level specified air gap, measured with the forks compressed from the top of the inner tube to the oil.
Then fit new springs and refit as reverse of disassembly etc.
Bobs your aunty's husband
Paddock stand as normal, and a trolley jack under the front of the engine is OK. But make sure you have undone all the big bolts when front wheel is on the ground [but with jack already under engine, as the forks will drop under weight of bike when you undo the last triple clamp bolt] , as the bike is not super stable on the trolley jack.
Also make sure you slacken the fork tops before you take them out of the triple clamps, much easier than trying to hold them in a vice after you removed them.
go slow and make sure you cover the tank and fairing as you will be leaving the clip-ons resting there while the forks are out............common sence and a bit of care and it is easy task to remove the forks.
once out tops off, springs & spacers out, empty out the oil & drain well, give it a good clean.
then refil with oil to the level specified air gap, measured with the forks compressed from the top of the inner tube to the oil.
Then fit new springs and refit as reverse of disassembly etc.
Bobs your aunty's husband
AMcQ