New bike, new problems.

tony.mon · Post by **tony.mon** » Wed Jan 18, 2012 6:23 pm

Phimosis wrote: go into the 29mpg bracket looooooooooooooooool

I long for those days, but I keep opening the throttle...

vtwin · Post by **vtwin** » Wed Jan 18, 2012 6:27 pm

Did you say you bought this bike from a dealer?

benh89 · Post by **benh89** » Wed Jan 18, 2012 6:58 pm

tony.mon wrote:
benh89 wrote:
Should I expect fueling problems with aftermarket cans? I haven't ridden it yet so I don't know how it feels. Given the bike's history, I suspect the carbs are still factory configured, but I can't be certain as I haven't checked yet. Once I'm on the road I'll be getting the power and air/fuel mixture tested (Â£45 at Hodges Motorcycle Works, Penzance).
How much????
Ride immediately to Kent, where you can get a power run with stoichiometric ratio readout for only Â£42. (mention my name).

Undoubtedly the dyno operator will tell you that you need to set the bike up properly to suit the cans.
Make sure that you at least clean the air filter before you take it in, and if you were planning to fit a K+N or BMC filter, or dynojet kit, do it beforehand.

I will ride immediately to Kent. That price is just too good to pass up. Â£80 on fuel - Â£3 saving = approximately Â£77 extra!!! Bargain.

I'll just be riding it for a while to get to know the bike. If it feels fine, it'll probably stay as it is unless I feel really adventurous.

vtwin wrote:Did you say you bought this bike from a dealer?

Yes I did. Why do you ask?

Comments are appreciated, cheers.

Phimosis · Post by **Phimosis** » Wed Jan 18, 2012 7:22 pm

benh89 wrote:
tony.mon wrote:
benh89 wrote:
Should I expect fueling problems with aftermarket cans? I haven't ridden it yet so I don't know how it feels. Given the bike's history, I suspect the carbs are still factory configured, but I can't be certain as I haven't checked yet. Once I'm on the road I'll be getting the power and air/fuel mixture tested (Â£45 at Hodges Motorcycle Works, Penzance).
How much????
Ride immediately to Kent, where you can get a power run with stoichiometric ratio readout for only Â£42. (mention my name).

Undoubtedly the dyno operator will tell you that you need to set the bike up properly to suit the cans.
Make sure that you at least clean the air filter before you take it in, and if you were planning to fit a K+N or BMC filter, or dynojet kit, do it beforehand.
I will ride immediately to Kent. That price is just too good to pass up. Â£80 on fuel - Â£3 saving = approximately Â£77 extra!!! Bargain.

The dealer is a lying MF period. They are all born of devil and big bitch, they will tell you are a sex god with a mammoth phallus and you did that thing with it only a few have done before, your stylish, can drink with the rugby team and defeat all but the tight head prop, you wear great clothes and gok wang wants to take you out......then you sign on the dotted line........check it out, all of it.

I'll just be riding it for a while to get to know the bike. If it feels fine, it'll probably stay as it is unless I feel really adventurous.

vtwin wrote:Did you say you bought this bike from a dealer?
Yes I did. Why do you ask?

Comments are appreciated, cheers.

The dealer is a lying MF period. They are all born of devil and big bitch, they will tell you are a sex god with a mammoth phallus and you did that thing with it only a few have done before, your stylish, can drink with the rugby team and defeat all but the tight head prop, you wear great clothes and gok wang wants to take you out......then you sign on the dotted line........check it out, all of it.

vtwin · Post by **vtwin** » Wed Jan 18, 2012 7:30 pm

If you bought from a dealer, unless it was sold as spares or repairs it should have arrived with you in full working order.

FYI if you didn't visit the dealer or see the bike in person and either bought it over the phone or internet then you can return it for a full refund within 7 days of receiving it - for any reason - even if you don't like the colour, and what's more its the dealers responsibility to pay for the collection. :beer:

tony.mon · Post by **tony.mon** » Wed Jan 18, 2012 7:38 pm

You can't really blame a dealer when the bike needs a new battery; they're a disposable consumable item, like tyres, bulbs etc.
Use 'em up and wear 'em out.

You had a prob with the alarm due to the battery; the chain wasn't adjusted properly, but then on Storm's they adjust differently to a lot of other bikes, and it's a ten-minute job to sort.

Nothing to return it for, and so leave the dealer in peace.

Just my twist on this, after all we hear of enough times when the bike really should be returned...

Next time you need a spare part on a Saturday at 4pm, just be grateful he's still in business.

vtwin · Post by **vtwin** » Wed Jan 18, 2012 7:42 pm

Why didn't the dealer fit the new battery and check it over before he sent it out?

Phimosis · Post by **Phimosis** » Wed Jan 18, 2012 7:48 pm

tony.mon wrote:
Phimosis wrote: go into the 29mpg bracket looooooooooooooooool

I long for those days, but I keep opening the throttle...

When I was behind ya, I was always on the brakes.................

(PortDude)

Post by **Jazzscot** » Wed Jan 18, 2012 8:05 pm

Phimosis wrote:
your stylish, can drink with the rugby team and defeat all but the tight head prop,

http://www.pitchero.com/clubs/perthshir ... r_id=13081

I can drink like fook :beer:

Phimosis · Post by **Phimosis** » Wed Jan 18, 2012 8:55 pm

Jazzscot wrote:
Phimosis wrote:
your stylish, can drink with the rugby team and defeat all but the tight head prop,
http://www.pitchero.com/clubs/perthshir ... r_id=13081

I can drink like fook

Damn pussy this guy, 2 southern gayforts and a lemon sassperella he was toast, who mentioned gay anyway.........

Phimosis · Post by **Phimosis** » Wed Jan 18, 2012 8:58 pm

if this is you Jazz then im only kidding as im only 5ft 2in and 8 stone, fine figure of a lump I MEAN MAN...SORRY iLL GET ME COAT,

Post by **Jazzscot** » Wed Jan 18, 2012 9:14 pm

Yeah its really me Phimosis, I find southern comfort works well as a side order along with my jug of beer :beer:

benh89 · Post by **benh89** » Thu Jan 19, 2012 12:01 am

I'm not a big drinker... I'm only 5'9''.

Wow, my first thread and it's on fire!

vtwin wrote:Why didn't the dealer fit the new battery and check it over before he sent it out?

They offered to, but I chose to do it myself. I trust no one, but me in all things and like to do all the work myself, no matter how easy or difficult. It would have been dead by the time it arrived anyway no thanks to that stupid alarm. I have applied to do Automotive Engineering at university so I think I should be undertaking basic jobs. On that subject, has anyone here done an Automotive or Mechanical Engineering degree? I'm 22 now and slightly skeptical about returning to university. Not sure if it's the right move.

Will the removal process be simple? i.e. trace each wire from the control unit to where it inserts into the loom, detach and re-connect original wires, soldering if necessary? Then wrap it up in shrink wrap or electrical tape? I understand that sometimes, much of the original loom is removed and so re-connecting original wires can be difficult.

How about removing a Scott oiler? Do they make a lot of mess? I traced a hose coming from the unit and it attaches to a t-shaped connecter underneath the tank. Is this connected to a vacuum hose?

I hope I don't find anything else to remove or alter or I'm never going to ride the bloody thing!

Phimosis · Post by **Phimosis** » Thu Jan 19, 2012 9:19 am

benh89 wrote:I'm not a big drinker... I'm only 5'9''.

Wow, my first thread and it's on fire!

vtwin wrote:Why didn't the dealer fit the new battery and check it over before he sent it out?
They offered to, but I chose to do it myself. I trust no one, but me in all things and like to do all the work myself, no matter how easy or difficult. It would have been dead by the time it arrived anyway no thanks to that stupid alarm. I have applied to do Automotive Engineering at university so I think I should be undertaking basic jobs. On that subject, has anyone here done an Automotive or Mechanical Engineering degree? I'm 22 now and slightly skeptical about returning to university. Not sure if it's the right move.

Will the removal process be simple? i.e. trace each wire from the control unit to where it inserts into the loom, detach and re-connect original wires, soldering if necessary? Then wrap it up in shrink wrap or electrical tape? I understand that sometimes, much of the original loom is removed and so re-connecting original wires can be difficult.

How about removing a Scott oiler? Do they make a lot of mess? I traced a hose coming from the unit and it attaches to a t-shaped connecter underneath the tank. Is this connected to a vacuum hose?

I hope I don't find anything else to remove or alter or I'm never going to ride the bloody thing!

Yeah if you are removing the crapoiler replace the tee piece with a straight through or blank the t bit off.

Stratman · Post by **Stratman** » Thu Jan 19, 2012 9:23 am

I removed the Meta 351 from mine a few years ago after it malfunctioned and disabled the bike. I just worked back to the loom, reconnecting/soldering as necessary and half an hour later started her up no problems. I think some of the later alarms can be a bit more tricky though.

Scottoiler - remove if you like, but chains last 30,000 odd miles with them and whilst they make a bit of mess on the back wheel, better than fiddling around with chainlube IMHO, though if I was tempted to spray the wheels a light colour I would take it off.

Yes, of course the T goes into the vacuum pipe - thats how they work, using the vacuum from the engine.

VTR1000.ORG