Ccts swapped! Video added

[bigtwinthing]

I tried adjusting the rear as that's where the noise seems to be coming from, but as it went in, the rattle noise didn't stop, but the engine did! Backed it out to where I started and the bike fired back up. There was no whiny noise before, just stalled.
The front doesn't seem to be as noisy but it could just be how I'm hearing it.
My worry is if the timing jumped on the front when I did that one, as I didn't take the cover off, just turned the crank 1.25 turns. If that was the case, would I get noises like this, or would I expect worse? As I said, it seems to run pretty well, although I've not gone at it hard.

There are guys on here who will give much better advice but i followed there thread to the letter and had no probe at all. i personally would take the front cover off and re check. but thats me!!! i also made sure i had the correct 7mm dip in the chain as instructed.

it may seem odd but you can put a screwdriver handle in your ear ( don't get the wrong end) and then place the pointed bit on various parts of the bike and the noisy bit will be evident.

[dansrockin]

I tried tracking the noise down with a screwdriver, it certainly seemed louder from the rear cylinder, I put it on the front cam cover and it wasn't that bad, I'd have thought if it was the valves hitting the piston, it would've been much louder. But the rear install went to the letter, I don't recall having any issues with doing it.

[bigtwinthing]

I tried tracking the noise down with a screwdriver, it certainly seemed louder from the rear cylinder, I put it on the front cam cover and it wasn't that bad, I'd have thought if it was the valves hitting the piston, it would've been much louder. But the rear install went to the letter, I don't recall having any issues with doing it.

i thought more of maybe a slack chain rather than the internals hitting,

[tony.mon]

Try adjusting the front one before anything else.
That's why I like Bazza's conversions, as they are based on the original body the locknut and adjuster dome nut are visible above the thermostat housing and easy to adjust.
APE, Kregier etc are lower and much harder to get at, on the front one, anyway.
But it's do-able- you can push the coolant pipe down a bit and get a spanner over the top.

Have you tried pulling the clutch lever in, to see if the noise goes away?

[dansrockin]

I'll try and get to the front one while it's running, but it's a right pain to get at! If not, I'll have to take it all off again and check the front timing marks and chain slack properly.
I tried the clutch lever but no change. I
I know there's a bit of popping coming from the slight leak in the exhaust link pipe, but I don't think it's that.

[dansrockin]

well after my attempt the other day, i thought id give it another go today seeing as it was fairly dry. i stripped everything down again, including the front cam cover. everything was lined up right, but i adjusted the ccts properly measuring the chain tension on both cylinders, rather than just the back one like last time. with everything back together, it fired right up, but there is still a rattly noise from somewhere in the engine. its not quite as bad as before, so im guessing the tension wasnt quite right on the front cc. at least now i know for definite that its nothing to do with the timing or cam chains! the bike runs well, pulls well through the rev range, and has no issues that i can see, so im guessing its just a noisy engine and not as refined as a 4cyl!
the only issue i ran into was a bit of a duh moment, i put it all back together and then wondered why it was popping and farting more than before. it took about ten mins before the lightbulb moment and i remembered i hadnt tightened up the carbs after pushing them back onto the rubbers!! everything else went smoothly though, took 3 hours in total, following the excellent write up on here.
now i just need to swap out my bent sidestand and i think i have a fairly sorted storm!!
thanks for all the advice and info!

[bazza696]

seems a funny one but has it had an oil change recently, cause mine sounds very rattly when its due an oil change?

[dansrockin]

No idea, the last change in the service book was only about 2k ago, but 2 years. I'm going to do it when I get paid anyway. I'm guessing the usual 10w40 semi synth is the stuff to use?

[AMCQ46]

I'm guessing the usual 10w40 semi synth is the stuff to use?

yup, thats the one. I found halfords cheapo stuff made the clutch slip, so I stick with castrol

[popkat]

Fitted manuals on a storm a few weeks ago, never took the carbs off, seems like extra work for nothing, can't see why the carbs would need to come off ?, I set the chains up to 6mm slack, used Bazza's manuals, easy life

[VTRDark]

can't see why the carbs would need to come off ?

If removing the front cam cover then the plastic cowl needs to be removed from underneath which is wrapped around the front of the carbs. Yes it could be forced off and on past the front carb with a bit of persuasion, but removing the carbs is no big deal to get them out the way. Anyway it wont be long before someone wishes to remove the carbs for whatever reason so also a good learning curve too.

(:-})

[popkat]

I didn't need to remove the plastic shroud/cover,

[VTRDark]

Yeh but your an experienced mechanic with mechanics hands

When I wrote the MCCT Guide I tried to keep things as simple and straight froward as possible for those with less experience and/or confidence. I have had the cowl off with the carbs still on before but it means bending the cowl quite forcefully backwards and bending slightly to remove the tab out the front of the frame, lifting and pulling forwards and out from the front carb inlet.

Maybe it is unnecessary but hey...it's not as bad as the Honda manual telling us to drain the coolant to take the carbs off.

I didn't need to remove the plastic shroud/cover,

How did you gain access to the cam cover bolts at the back under the cowl. Did you manage to get to them from the front of the bike and underneath or through the side of the frame?

(:-})

[popkat]

I didn't need to remove the plastic shroud/cover,

How did you gain access to the cam cover bolts at the back under the cowl. Did you manage to get to them from the front of the bike and underneath or through the side of the frame?

(:-})

I went in from the front, I could see them so I had a go with a 10mm ring spanner, once cracked I could undo them with my fingers, thought it might be more difficult nipping them up again once the cover was back on but it all went rather easily, they don't need to be tight, just butted up then nipped. The bike had a front mount radiator which I needed to drop down, but even with the side rads I think it would be just a case of moving them out of the way.

[popkat]

Yeh but your an experienced mechanic with mechanics hands

When I wrote the MCCT Guide I tried to keep things as simple and straight froward as possible for those with less experience and/or confidence. I have had the cowl off with the carbs still on before but it means bending the cowl quite forcefully backwards and bending slightly to remove the tab out the front of the frame, lifting and pulling forwards and out from the front carb inlet.

Maybe it is unnecessary but hey...it's not as bad as the Honda manual telling us to drain the coolant to take the carbs off.

(:-})

Your write up's are very good removing the carbs has the advantage of adding a lot more light to the area, which if someone has less experience or confidence is very useful.. LED inspection lights are the nuts though