Forks (again!)

[sirch345]

Get the front done I say.
I never found the back that bad, and if you do you can always do it later
Nothing is worse than a vague front end

pete.l

I'd second exactly what Pete says
If you want to be cost effective you've a couple of options;

1. Buy springs and oil and fit yourself (don't forget to cut the spacers down as reqd to keep the same spring free length)
Then when you come to sell you can remove the springs and sell them seperately

2. Get the forks sorted by Roger and when you come to sell, advertise the forks for an upgrade-swap on here with cash your way


Then you'll have enough money left over to get the rear sorted by either:
1. Spot second hand unit on ebay (£210 ish)
or
2. Get the stock unit resprung, re-oiled and re-gassed (approx £100)

There's some good options there

Ben, what were you saying about the progressive type of fork springs for the Storm sometime back if my memory serves me well

Chris.

[Stormin Ben]

My understanding is that progressive springs are not the great leap forward they're made out to be.
The theory is that the firmer part of the spring absorbs heavy loads eg braking which leaves the lighter part to deal with bumps etc WHILE braking.
However, in practice the weight of the bike uses uup the soft part, leaving you with bog standard linear springs but of reduced length.
Better to go for the linear springs with oil to match, but give Roger at Revolution a bell coz he's really helpful and very happy to chat, even if you're not buying the bits from him

Your memory is good young grasshopper!! :-)

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB2/viewtopic ... rogressive

[sirch345]

My understanding is that progressive springs are not the great leap forward they're made out to be.
The theory is that the firmer part of the spring absorbs heavy loads eg braking which leaves the lighter part to deal with bumps etc WHILE braking.
However, in practice the weight of the bike uses uup the soft part, leaving you with bog standard linear springs but of reduced length.
Better to go for the linear springs with oil to match, but give Roger at Revolution a bell coz he's really helpful and very happy to chat, even if you're not buying the bits from him

Your memory is good young grasshopper!! :-)

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB2/viewtopic ... rogressive

Ben thanks for that mate

[sirch345]

Thanks guys for all the positive comments, the reason I'm not prepared to spend too much is that you don't get it back if I do decide to sell in say a years time, and I'm doing this to enjoy what has been and still is a great bike which does not have very good forks.
I was out today with a Blade and a 749 and the poor front end rears it's ugly head! I don't want to overtake them, but keeping up would be good!
If I was going to spend more money I'm in the enviable position of being able to afford a newer bike, the only problem is what? - SP2? KTM950SM?....

Think I'll do the forks.

I now understand you reason for not wishing to spend too much, which imo is fair comment

Probably your best value for money deal (if you sell the Storm privately) would be the SP1

[Pete.L]

Chris said

Probably your best value for money deal (if you sell the Storm privately) would be the SP1

And if you listen to the guys on the Honda forum they will then tell you the best MOD on the SP is to get the forks done
Well fancy that anothe Honda in need of improvements.

Pete.l

[sirch345]

Chris said

Probably your best value for money deal (if you sell the Storm privately) would be the SP1

And if you listen to the guys on the Honda forum they will then tell you the best MOD on the SP is to get the forks done
Well fancy that anothe Honda in need of improvements.

Pete.l

LOL I did say best value for money though Pete

That's interesting, I take it you mean both the SP1 and SP2

What's your personal opinion on your SP2

Chris.

[Pete.L]

Compared to the Firestorm it's suspension is hard....bloody hard.
I've had the summer to get used to it now and plenty of good weather to play with the settings. The std settings are brill for high speed, track use or big sweepers. It's very focused and goes where ever you point it with the slightest whiff of encouragement but get it on a rough old bit of road around the tight naggery bits it bucks and skips beyond what I would call a comfortable ride, don't get me wrong it still does what you ask, I went over the crest of a hill on a left hand bend one morning ,laid rigt over and had to slam on the brakes halfway around, all it did was lift the back wheel I was stopping so quick , I released the brake and back down came the back-end and it didn't even go off line
Needless to say my lesson was learned and I just wiped the seat off and carried on, the next bend was taken slower a lot slower.
One really nice thing about the bike is the front and rear are fully adjustable ,almost to the point where there are too many settings on the SP2, SP1 has a few less, but you soon learn what you are after is in quite a tight range so it narrows it down for you. After afair bit of twiddling (and using some PB settings as a base level) I've made some good improvements it and it feels pretty planted in most conditions now but I've also came to the same conclusion as a few other forums and that is for road use the springs are too soft in the front or I'm a fat b@stard cause when I finally get the ride and feel that I like it far too easy to bottom out the forks under emergency stop conditions. Nothing feels worse than going into a corner a bit too quick, pulling on the brakes a little harder and the front has ran out of travel, the bike feels as if it's pogo sticking down the road and you are speeding up not slowing down
So, to put it in a nutshell, std settings over damped and not good for most British roads or have a twiddle and under sprung.
Mind you, I am a fussy bugger and maybe I should just learn to brake a little earlier
Oh! nothing to do with handling but I just thought you should know It's never stalled. Not once Ahh! just had to get that in

Pete.l

[Wroey]

I'll agree with what Pete says .... But to accompany the hard suspension the seat is also very thin, about the thickness of a slice of bread so you know it when you hit a bump.

Its rough to ride through town, but as soon as your on the open road it all works well together and seems that the faster you go the smoother it all becomes.

P.S. On my first ride out, i stalled it !!

[sirch345]

Pete, I enjoyed reading that, very interesting, especially as the SP has very similar fork issues to the Storm.

No stalling eh I think that fuel injection v 48mm carbs will have something to do with that

Wroey
I take it the SP has a fairly high first gear looking at your P.S.

Chris.

[Wroey]

I take it the SP has a fairly high first gear looking at your P.S.

Chris.

lol .... But in my defence, i had just come off my trials bike which seems impossible to stall.

First gear is relatively high, but the bike is just lumpy at low speeds full stop. Its just a trait of the SP1/2 really, something you live with as it certainly makes up for it on the faster roads.

[Pete.L]

Errr!

I didn't count the first day I had it

It's never stalled. Not once Ahh! just had to get that in

It took me three attempt s to leave the garage where I bought it
But in my defence the engine was cold and the (fully adjustable )Clutch lever was in the wrong position

Pete.l

[Wroey]

I didn't count the first day I had it

It's never stalled. Not once Ahh! just had to get that in

It took me three attempt s to leave the garage where I bought it
But in my defence the engine was cold and the (fully adjustable )Clutch lever was in the wrong position

Thanks Pete, not just me who looked a fool infront of the Honda dealer then !

I always let it warm up before riding, atleast wait until the electric temp gauge registers and that’s normally about 50 degrees, which seems to be ideal.

[sirch345]

excuses excuses

[Wroey]

excuses excuses

Come on .... I thought it sounded plausible !!

[sirch345]

excuses excuses

Come on .... I thought it sounded plausible !!

If I'm honest it's happened to me before