what have you done to your "bike" today

[Commando77]

Stripped it down again for one more go at the mainshaft brg, which got noisy after 350 miles. Dead easy to pull the engine this time with the frame roped at each end to the rafters. Bearing is a bit rough but not like the original I replaced last Yr. Did manage to score a NOS mainshaft for very little, that might quieten 1st gear or it might not without a matching counter gear.
Found a worn front sprocket, notchy head brgs and a loose rear downpipe fitting. Also a seized front mount adjuster to replace, left last time but it annoys me so has to be drilled or heated out. I'll be busy..

[sirch345]

Stripped it down again for one more go at the mainshaft brg, which got noisy after 350 miles. Dead easy to pull the engine this time with the frame roped at each end to the rafters. Bearing is a bit rough but not like the original I replaced last Yr. Did manage to score a NOS mainshaft for very little, that might quieten 1st gear or it might not without a matching counter gear.
Found a worn front sprocket, notchy head brgs and a loose rear downpipe fitting. Also a seized front mount adjuster to replace, left last time but it annoys me so has to be drilled or heated out. I'll be busy..

That lot should keep you out of mischief for a little while

Fingers crossed the new main shaft helps,

Chris.

[Commando77]

it will. Still bugs me why the bearing went so quick. I pressed it on carefully, well pulled it on using plates, studs and a tube on the centre race. It was lubed well and the clutch was torqued up with a wedge between the gears, not gunned on. I now have a clutch holding tool and the bearing will be filled with 50/50 moly and grease, though I don't see why it should need it. It didn't get any worse after 350 miles with 3000 total. Could be the crush is a bit tight but no obvious defects in the seating. We'll see. I won't be doing it again, that's for sure.
Did get the front adjuster out. That was fun cutting an internal slot, heat, leverage etc. 2hrs. Have ordered a new one, hope they are available, I'm. In trouble otherwise.
The mainshaft won't help the bearing but it might quieten low gear. Fingers x'd all round, cheers..

[TaxiDriver]

it will. Still bugs me why the bearing went so quick. I pressed it on carefully, well pulled it on using plates, studs and a tube on the centre race. It was lubed well and the clutch was torqued up with a wedge between the gears, not gunned on. I now have a clutch holding tool and the bearing will be filled with 50/50 moly and grease, though I don't see why it should need it. It didn't get any worse after 350 miles with 3000 total. Could be the crush is a bit tight but no obvious defects in the seating. We'll see. I won't be doing it again, that's for sure.
Did get the front adjuster out. That was fun cutting an internal slot, heat, leverage etc. 2hrs. Have ordered a new one, hope they are available, I'm. In trouble otherwise.
The mainshaft won't help the bearing but it might quieten low gear. Fingers x'd all round, cheers..

Might have been the tube on the centre race distored it.
I think using he outer casing to install may make a difference.....just a thought.

[Commando77]

The race centre is a press fit on the mainshaft and the outer is clamped between case halves so any whacking on the outer race will damage the bearing. Using the inner race to press against is the only way. I'm probably straw clutching tho as I'm told they all do it...

[TaxiDriver]

The race centre is a press fit on the mainshaft and the outer is clamped between case halves so any whacking on the outer race will damage the bearing. Using the inner race to press against is the only way. I'm probably straw clutching tho as I'm told they all do it...

Ahh,so there is no friction going into the cases as they are assembled later..right?

Err,I never mentioned whacking.......thats a last resort.....

[Commando77]

Right, clamped between halves. I'm used to the way you described, drop brgs in heated cases and heat race to drop over crank journals.... Two part roller brgs.

[KermitLeFrog]

Tried to start it. I want to warm it up and give it a final clean before it goes into the house for Winter. It coughed a few times and now refuses to fire. I've put some fresh petrol in and connected it up to jump leads off the car but it just turns over and shows no sign of a spark.

It's cold outside and I don't want to bring it inside until it starts so I have to muck around in the cold. What are the quickest and easiest things to tackle first? Suggestions?

[tony.mon]

Tried to start it. I want to warm it up and give it a final clean before it goes into the house for Winter. It coughed a few times and now refuses to fire. I've put some fresh petrol in and connected it up to jump leads off the car but it just turns over and shows no sign of a spark.

It's cold outside and I don't want to bring it inside until it starts so I have to muck around in the cold. What are the quickest and easiest things to tackle first? Suggestions?

Suggest you push it into the house and work on it there!

[KermitLeFrog]

Are there any interlocks (or fuses) that stop the engine firing but still allow the starter motor to turn over?

[sirch345]

Are there any interlocks (or fuses) that stop the engine firing but still allow the starter motor to turn over?

I'm not sure on this as my bike is wired differently, but does the bike still turn over on the starter with the kill switch turned off

Chris.

[KermitLeFrog]

Are there any interlocks (or fuses) that stop the engine firing but still allow the starter motor to turn over?

I'm not sure on this as my bike is wired differently, but does the bike still turn over on the starter with the kill switch turned off

Chris.

No, kill switch off and the starter motor does not run.

[sirch345]

Are there any interlocks (or fuses) that stop the engine firing but still allow the starter motor to turn over?

I'm not sure on this as my bike is wired differently, but does the bike still turn over on the starter with the kill switch turned off

Chris.

No, kill switch off and the starter motor does not run.

Okay, scrap that idea then, back to the drawing board

Chris.

[Commando77]

If Yr wiring is non std and the starter relay is also deactivated with the kill sw I'd be looking at that wiring. Sidestand, HISS if you have it, aftmkt immobiliser? Neutral sw etc. It will be something simple (says he). I spent 23 yrs with Joe Lucas but electrics are still a pain.
Just rewiring a 55 chevy which has NO fuses as std. Twas an option. You'll get there.

[Commando77]

New mainshaft brg installed on new shaft, lots of moly/oil lube and cases buttoned up.
I degreased the new brg and TBH it didn't feel nice. Genuine Koyo of course but it's not great. Did notice that the new B issue brgs are 8 ball with the original a 9 ball and carrying the 6206 type no. Must have been Honda improving it.
Going to be dead careful how I torque up the big shaft nuts and bolts, probably deluding myself tho it'd be nice for the rumble to stay away longer than 350 miles.
Another possibility is the hammering the bearing could have taken when I had the rear cam timing 180 out. If I think about it I did rag it when it was starting to piss me off. It didn't feel nice on what was really one cyl and really out of firing balance.