VTR1000.ORG

bit of LC carb setting, that was fun . got them balanced nice but when i checked both slides came down a mill or so apart, so set the slides to lift together then that knocked them out at full throttle two hours later they were pretty much perfect so fought with the carb rubbers, bolted it all up and ....................................... when i shut the throttle im getting two clicks instead of one. god dam 2 strokes.

ahhhh the joys of it.

popkat wrote: ↑Mon Jan 10, 2022 2:49 pm To Mac and nosepicker.
The green earth that bolts on with the reg/rec is not the reg/rec earth, that earth is in the wiring and block connector. It is still an earth though but should be ok if the bolt and thread is clean. It is important though to have a good connection between the main frame and sub frame so making sure it's metal to metal where it attaches is a good idea.

Thanks popkat

iv been looking at and not trusting my front Dymag for a while (after the rear tried to kill me) so iv retired it to sit and look pretty beside the rear one and have went back to a storm wheel for peace of mind

Dropped the heads and a few small bits into a local place for vapour blasting. I also spoke to him about finish for the engine and he's pricing up ceramic coating.

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Thanks to my mate pointing me to a post from 2005 I replaced the banana shaped brake pedal caused by my low side and fitted a new one. Much easier task than I originally thought thanks to this: viewtopic.php?t=4172 as I didn't have to remove the swingarm spindle

Put new seals in the carbs and traced the broken wire to the coil and rewired it . Waiting on a sump gasket before I attempt to start it again .

Drained coolant Left and right rads off doing a deep clean of exterior casing etc before new coolant hoses fitted.
Found my lost tank collars under the coolant bottle happy days as Mr. Honda wants a fiver a piece.

mjvw wrote: ↑Sat Jan 15, 2022 5:48 pm Drained coolant Left and right rads off doing a deep clean of exterior casing etc before new coolant hoses fitted.
Found my lost tank collars under the coolant bottle happy days as Mr. Honda wants a fiver a piece.

And the dropped airbox screw is in the casting behind the main engine bolt.
Every bloody time...

tony.mon wrote: ↑Sat Jan 15, 2022 7:58 pm

mjvw wrote: ↑Sat Jan 15, 2022 5:48 pm Drained coolant Left and right rads off doing a deep clean of exterior casing etc before new coolant hoses fitted.
Found my lost tank collars under the coolant bottle happy days as Mr. Honda wants a fiver a piece.

And the dropped airbox screw is in the casting behind the main engine bolt.
Every bloody time...

Yes the Vee Twin engine configuration is good for catching dropped bolts, screws and collars etc annoyingly

Chris.

tony.mon wrote: ↑Sat Jan 15, 2022 7:58 pm

mjvw wrote: ↑Sat Jan 15, 2022 5:48 pm Drained coolant Left and right rads off doing a deep clean of exterior casing etc before new coolant hoses fitted.
Found my lost tank collars under the coolant bottle happy days as Mr. Honda wants a fiver a piece.

And the dropped airbox screw is in the casting behind the main engine bolt.
Every bloody time...

The front air box screws are the ones I always send south, I now have a telescopic magnetic pickup tool very handy loosen them then lift out no more dropsy well almost.

Started to sort the plumbing out doing a dry fit, supplied carb coolant pipes front and back are a little longer than the OEM ones.

Ordered a load of parts for the engine rebuild. It took ages getting the part numbers together and comparing prices but I saved nearly £100 buying from CSM. Even with the 2% import duty and £11.50 shipping admin fee it was still nearly £80 saving.

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Little job done Starter motor cable and nut rusted unable to turn really did not want to damage the stator plate/bolt connector, rendering the starter motor US..... searched forum and found a post saying cut down the center of the bolt tap two halves of the nut off the bolt.
Task completed using Dremel and Dremel EZ SpeedClic SC409 Thin Cutting Wheel greased bolt ran on new nut filled boot with more grease tip worked a treat.

mjvw wrote: ↑Tue Jan 18, 2022 9:52 pm Little job done Starter motor cable and nut rusted unable to turn really did not want to damage the stator plate/bolt connector, rendering the starter motor US..... searched forum and found a post saying cut down the center of the bolt tap two halves of the nut off the bolt.
Task completed using Dremel and Dremel EZ SpeedClic SC409 Thin Cutting Wheel greased bolt ran on new nut filled boot with more grease tip worked a treat.

The thin nut behind the connector can be held firm to stop it all spinning by grinding a 10mm spanner to fit. Hold the back nut with your new slimline spanner...Then attack the top not...If its rusted to dust this might not work tho...

mjvw wrote: ↑Tue Jan 18, 2022 9:52 pm Little job done Starter motor cable and nut rusted unable to turn really did not want to damage the stator plate/bolt connector, rendering the starter motor US..... searched forum and found a post saying cut down the center of the bolt tap two halves of the nut off the bolt.
Task completed using Dremel and Dremel EZ SpeedClic SC409 Thin Cutting Wheel greased bolt ran on new nut filled boot with more grease tip worked a treat.

thats how I fixed mine and its held up for 6 yrs since then, so it works