Camshaft change

[Varastorm]

Hi,

I was going to go down that road, but the more you read into it there isn't that much difference in the engines.

The carbs & camshafts are the biggy, then because of the higher rev's, double valve springs & a lighter flywheel to let it spin it up faster, also the the six speed box & oil cooler.

BTW the final drive (Top) gear ratio, be it a five or six speed gear box is the same, 0.961 to 1. Only the rear sprockets are different, 41 for the VTR, 47 for the Varadero.

There is a difference in compression ratio though, (VTR 9.4 to 1) & (Varadero 9.0 to 1).

So, if I don't fit the (VTR) electrics to allow the engine to rev higher, I don't need the double valve springs or the oil cooler. All I need are the VTR camshafts, and look into advancing the cam timing so the peak power comes in at the top of the Varadero's rev limit!

If I like the new power, I will more than likley look into a high comp piston engine with ported heads....

Regards.

[AMCQ46]

sounds like you need the VTR loom and ECUs


or why not get a VTR and fit high bars and a VFR tank.........job done

[Varastorm]

Hi,

I have also got a clean CBR600fy for the road & for track day's. Parts I have bought for it are; full Arrow high exhaust system, Gilles rearsets, R&G crash bungs, later race fairing from FSi & rear subframe with single seat conversion, Ten Kate clipon's, Stack rev counter & dash, Harris fuel cap, R1 master, PFM front discs + two sets of wheels one of which is on the varadero & a big bag of sprockets.

All of these parts have sat in the shed for over 12 months. None of these parts have been put on the bike because I have lost intrest in head down sports bikes (I wish I could say the same about Ebay). I know it might sound odd but I really prefer the sit up & beg style of riding. I must be getting old......

At the moment, I feel I have as close to two bikes in one as I will ever get with the Varadero.

It takes about 2 hours max to change it from a sticky, Pirelli Super Corsa shod Motard into a big fast touring/off roader by fitting the original wheels shod with knarley Pirelli TKC 80 tyres, African Queens sump guard complete with crash bars, MRA screen, full luggage & Garmin satnav. I quick honk on the Stebel Nautilus horn & I'm ready to go anywhere in comfort, solo or with a pillion.(forgot to mention the sheepskin seat )

I just want it to go faster, faster, faster......, Honda Multistrada??????



Regards.

[Wicky]

Or get a Storm with a top box

[tony.mon]

To get 6 degrees in one tooth you'd have to have 60 tooth cam sprockets.........you'll need to file the cam mounting bolt holes into slots, and use a degree wheel and DTI to time the cams to the settings you want.

[Varastorm]

Hi Tony,

Your right! I have just popped to the shed were I have a spare head, 42 teeth on a cam wheel! looks like 1 tooth = 8.6°.......

Any one ever tried this much advance?

If so what was it like?

Seems like a good way to bend some valves!

All I can hope for if the timing wheels are out a few degrees & work around it that way, I have never seen factory cam wheels perfect, most are a few degrees out.

Regards.

[tony.mon]

As I said, file the slots, then you can set the advance as much or as little as you wish.
Using complete teeth on the chainwheel is a very coarse way of adjusting timing.

In case you're worried, the two chainwheel bolts are plenty strong enough to hold the chainwheel in place once adjusted.

Using Firestorm springs, build the head, but use only the inner spring.
Then you can set the timing, and using an old head gasket, rebuild the head onto the engine, and install the CCT.
Now you have the opportunity to get the timing set to the lobe centre positions you wish, and can rotate the engine by hand, checking the valve to piston clearance by pushing the valve down so that it touches the piston, every one degree of crankshaft rotation form about 25-30 degrees before tdc on the compression stroke to 25-30 degrees after TDC. This link http://www.diyporting.com/PVC.html explains why, but ignore the parts about followers, as our cams act directly on buckets and shims, rather than using rocker arms and/or pushrods.

Minimum clearance inlet and exhaust is whatever you're happy with, have a look at this site:
http://www.racingheadservice.com/rhs/pi ... nce-guide/
I have a min recommended clearance for inlet and exhaust somewhere from JE, but can't find it at the moment.