Won't rev over 5000 rpm

[sirch345]

I believe that I've followed Cybercarls instructions on checking the timing to the letter in the first place and there's no indication of anything wrong.

That is good to hear, I just wasn't getting that impression from earlier posts you posted up, that was all.
The point I was trying to make is, you need to make sure the valve timing is set correctly before moving on to other things by following our tried and tested threads posted on how to do this.

Now that you have done that we can move on

Chris.

[redpig]

We could swap bikes, I never go over 5000 rpm anyway.

[VTRDark]

Cam positions on both cylinders are the tell tale but there should have been a notable difference spinning the rear. To have no difference suggests the issue is somewhere else. I'd take AMCQ up on his offer if I was you, he's knows his stuff so you have no worries there. You could even swap ECU's as a quick test and eliminate that. A compression check may be worth ruling out too. Coils popped into my head for moment but I don't think if a coil failed it would stick below 5000 and anyway you would hear it running on one cylinder straight away, 5000 rpm is quite specific.

With stuff like this you have diagnose in order. Start with mechanical, once all that is ruled out then move onto fuelling, and once that ruled out your onto electrical. I'm still not convinced that the fuelling has been ruled out. Petcock diaphragm....a bright light is not going to show up a small tear in it. Strip it down or replace, but watch out for the little spring that pops out if stripping down and did we rule out the vacuum hose.

[tony.mon]

Plugs first, if there's a fuelling issue the plugs will show it; if it's bad enough to stop it revving out.
Possible stuck choke?
Again, plugs will show.

[Thetoaddude]

Clocks.

It's the flippin' clocks. I had a moment of clarity yesterday, rare but welcome!

There's no off switch for the lights so it's probably a parallel import but it's got mph clocks on it. Among the box of odds and sods I got with it was a set of the nastiest, most corroded kph clocks you can imagine. I've just fitted them and the problem is gone. Just like that.

Presumably the euro-beat from the gearbox pulse was telling the UK clocks that it was at the rev limit and cutting ignition?

Fortunately I can do simple maths so kph clocks aren't a problem, I just need to source some that don't look like they've been stored under Blackpool pier.

Now it really is time! I'll drink the first one to all you good people that have taken the time to help. Cheers!

[KermitLeFrog]

Weird. Presumably the UK clock were showing the correct engine speed and, by the sounds of it, the correct road speed. Does anyone know where the engine rev limiter is located? In the CDI perhaps? Do the clocks really feed back into the CDI?

What happens if the clocks were completely disconnected? Does the engine run?

Interesting.....

Anyway, enjoy your drink and enjoy your unfettered bike!

[Wicky]

Ahh! Well done - I think Carl mentioned it in passing as Japanese market ones are restricted - and the way round it is snip a wire or two behind the clocks

Here we go - a bit late but it could very well be an indication of the problem

http://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/te ... out-23700/

Unbolt the ferring, and remove the cluster. Unscrew the back cover of the cluster. On the speedo side, you will see the following wires. Green Black. Black Brown. Red Green and Pink Green. Take note of that pink green wire. (Do not touch it. That is the speed sensor wire for the speedo from the gearbox, if you unscrew that, your speedo WON'T WORK) Looking at the back of the speedo (cluster), you will see a second pink green wire that is just off the the left that is screwed at the bottom on a line of 4 screwed in wires. Unscrew that second pink and green wire, tape it up. And there you have it. Speed limiter removed. So in short, look for the pink and green wire that is as close to the center of the cluster as possible, and unscrew and tape up. It should take around 10 minutes. EASY AS! The longest part is removing the ferring and 3 cluster bolts. - You don;t even need to unplug the loom. If you pull the cluster right apart there is a little chip in there that sends the cut signal to the ecu. Technically now the ECU doesn;t know how fast you are going. I had a Firestorm that was limited to 185k's, after a 10 minute job, and a 20 minute ride you're set to go.. . . PLEASE REMEMBER ... RESPECT THE POWER AND SPEED. ONE WRONG BLINK AND IT'LL BE CURTAINS. BE SAFE.

[Thetoaddude]

Mph clocks were reading within 10 percent of sat-nav speeds so I was happy enough with that. I haven't read those mod instructions well enough, but might give it a go if appropriate.

[VTRDark]

OMG After all that. You could have told us it's an import Oh well glad to hear you have found the solution and thanks for the update. Yeh following the instructions in Wicky's post and that should fool the ECU. We've had members successfully do this in the past all went fine.

[Thetoaddude]

We live and learn. If I keep doing both that's no bad thing.

Now, about my next little problem.....

[Kev L]

....you probably need to go and see a doctor about that fella, No it shouldn't be green and scabby!!!

[sirch345]

Great news I'm very pleased to hear you've got to the bottom of the problem, I can imagine you must be as well

Chris.

[fabiostar]

Happy days lad glad you got her sorted

[Cadbury64]

Well done solving your problem.

Regarding the Jap market speedo, I can confirm that a pink/green wire removal on the back of the speedo is all that is needed to defeat the limiter, which otherwise chimes in at 180 km/hr and spoils some of the fun. I did exactly that on my Jap-market bike and it worked like a charm (for closed circuit use only).