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seb421 wrote: bad news is some mongo that has had the front wheel off at some point had over tightend the pinch bolts on the forks when putting them back so going to get some nice Titanium replacements

Be very carefull doing up you front wheel spindle and assosiated bolts, K5's/6's had problems with warping discs, you need to tighten in sequence, iirc make sure caliper pistons are out evenly on each caliper, if not the calipers will try and pull the discs, do up caliper bolts finger tight and nip the spindle up to take up any gaps but not tighten properly, pump the brake up slowly and bounce on the front a few times to let it all settle in place then tighten the caliper bolts then wheel spindle to the correct torque settings, lastly tighten the pinch bolts evenly a bit at a time until they reach torque, when one reaches torque go back and check the other, if you don't do the pinch bolts this way you can crack the bottom of the fork leg.
wheel should spin fairly freely, if binding look to see whats wrong.

Had a little spin on the bike today, went out very briefly a few weeks back but this time was out a bit longer, felt good and hardly any popping now i've junked the "pair" gubbins. bikes been turning over really slow and pulling battery voltage at the same time (keeps resetting the clock too) so before going thought i'd take a peep at the starter motor lead bolt and it was pretty rusty, 10mm socket spun but got a 3/8 on there nice, had to hold the rest with molies, turn a bit stop, wire brush/wd40, turn a bit again stop wire brush/wd and so on until right at the End the bolt snaps cleaned it up and bolted the lead back on with one nut, still turns over slowly though, looks like i'll be stripping the starter motor for a good clean up this week and looking for a new square peg bolt. if that doesn't cure it then i'll check out reg/rec then try another known good battery.

fitted the front numberboard last night and today i went for a ride and visited some friends, bikes running great, shame its up for sale in the next week or so....

popkat wrote:

seb421 wrote: bad news is some mongo that has had the front wheel off at some point had over tightend the pinch bolts on the forks when putting them back so going to get some nice Titanium replacements

Be very carefull doing up you front wheel spindle and assosiated bolts, K5's/6's had problems with warping discs, you need to tighten in sequence, iirc make sure caliper pistons are out evenly on each caliper, if not the calipers will try and pull the discs, do up caliper bolts finger tight and nip the spindle up to take up any gaps but not tighten properly, pump the brake up slowly and bounce on the front a few times to let it all settle in place then tighten the caliper bolts then wheel spindle to the correct torque settings, lastly tighten the pinch bolts evenly a bit at a time until they reach torque, when one reaches torque go back and check the other, if you don't do the pinch bolts this way you can crack the bottom of the fork leg.
wheel should spin fairly freely, if binding look to see whats wrong.

Thanks mate great advice, guy at B&C spoke about the cracking if not done right hope he put it back right, he had a K6 him self so he best have. I shall re do it my self tommorrow morning anyway

Cheers again!

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Today i finished changing the clutch cover over, changed the oil footrests left handle bar, put a new front tire on and put the hrc throttle tube on.

Must say she rides like a different bike much more responsive and the oil change did her good feels much smother, the oil i took out is supposed to have only been in there a year but i think the PO is telling porky's it was like water even when it was stone cold.

Now i just need her to get to a dyno and tuned sort of this economy problem and i imagine she will ride even better.

Kyran

washed it, and then rode it yet again for another 300 miles today, the bike is running fantasically and i am really getting in to the handling.i still love the drive out of bends and to be honest my mate on his 748 Ducati is still struggling to keep up on the real twisty stuff. I cant hear his "terminogies" which chesses him right off, Iam having a blast.

Now i just need her to get to a dyno and tuned sort of this economy problem and i imagine she will ride even better.

The HRC throttle tube won't help with the fuel economy. You will find yourself going to wide open throttle a bit more.

Have you had your carbs off yet to see what's inside. You might as well do this before any dyno and at the same time adjust your TPS as the Dyno tech wont touch the TPS. If you capable of fitting a HRC throttle tube and Clutch cover, then your capable of removing carbs, stripping down, investigate and clean.

A few links:
How to remove the carbs from the bike
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... al#p223894

How to Strip the carbs down down.
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=25177

And while the carbs are off you may as well adjust the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... or#p222504

Once the carbs are cleaned, jetted and back on the bike they will need syncing.
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=18430

(:-})

I've had the off in the past when I reset the tps. And I know its a 190 DJ main but the rest of its insides I'm vague...




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Carbs balanced, iridium plugs fitted and stick coil conversion done this evening,looking forward to giving it a spin.There was quite a difference between the two carbs so should notice a difference.

polished up the end cans where it once said not for road use.......
fitted new bolts on the exhaust hangers, then spent 3hrs blasting around central london(monopoly run dress rehersal, pictures in the ride out thread), only managed to get into 3rd gear a handful of times, good fun tho, even had one guy come up to us and talk about bikes, he'd just sold his sv1000, he even asked if he could meet up with us on the night/morning, as he was on a boris bike, i doubt he could do the whole route with us.....

Today all I did was get my log book in the post still haven't got the bike but I'm the owner of an expensive piece of paper lol

Fitted a steering damper :-) and new 5" tomtom case .

Spent 4 hours last night restoring some Carbon Fiber i got second hand off a muppet on ebay,

he said it was as new, turned up with loads of road rash took ages to T-Cut the stone chips from it and the paint on the mesh is a mess so that will need re doing too

Gave it loads of serious elbow grease with T-Cut and then a lot of waxing and then a Gel Coat, looks better now but still needs the mesh painting


Seller has been taken off ebay as he's a con man as a member on the suzuki forum has got the police on him and a warrant has been issued and ebay have closed his account, he's been selling stuff, not delivering it and then reselling the same item a few months later.

Trying to get some money back on the item from resolution centre


Also replaced pinch bolts with new Titanium goodies

Had a fun day in the sunshine in marty's back garden playing with the new engine getting it prepared for installation. Fitted APE MCCT's, front cylinder was out by one tooth on the inlet and exhaust cam so I had to put that right. We noticed the front Honda tensioner had been changed at some point and also they both have different colour dots. So it's either had a failure at some point or was changed because it got rattly. Also checked the valve clearances and they where all in spec, all spot on except for the exhaust on the front which was out by 1 though but still within spec. I also had two road races with harly's one this morning and another coming home.

(:-})

fun in the sun with carlos, put a new clutch in, fitted the ape tensioners, also fitted new spark plugs and ti gen cover bolts, and i put on a freshly painted satin black oil cooler.
as carl said, i think it had a rattly front chain and the cct was changed, orange dot on the front one, plus lots of sealant, the rear looked like it hadn't been touched and had a white dot.
i just need to get my spare older model cam covers powder coated and put on, bolt everything down, fit the new k&n filter and some fresh oil, and it'll be ready for the rebuild.