VTR1000.ORG

Ckennedy wrote:I do hope those Aprillia stickers come off?

Yep :-) and new one have been ordered

And I've removed the forks to change the seals and bushes .

It's hard to believe that oil is only 1k old !
And I've found a broken lug on the fairing must of happened when I hit a pheasant at hi speed :-(

Drained the fuel out of 'Ole Red, swapped levers, inspection caps, R/R & flasher relay...

That was enough for me elbow for one day...

cybercarl wrote:

Well the mystery continues with the pineapple bike. Plug changed, coil changed, ICM and ECU changed and still the same. It's very strange. It does behave like a timing issue but there is no reason for it to be. The cam have never been removed, the only thing that has been done there is to set the rear to compression and re-adjust the cct to sort the oil seepage. We did unbolt the pick up when the clutch casing was taken off, but that's juts a case of undoing the two 10 or 8 mm bolts and re-attaching. Nothing to go wrong there really.

and I am frustrated with that bike now.

(:-})

I did work on a bike with similar issues, though not exactly the same, and it ended up being the magnetic pick up in the clutch cover going bad.
It did take a while to find it, so it might be something you might want to check.

Could that only affect the bike from 6ooo onwards. It basically starts to stutter from 6 though and struggles to move on past. It does get past it but like I say it stutters and struggles. It's as if it's fuel starvation but that has all been ruled out. Bizzarly enough the guy at the dyno disconnected the front cylinder and it eliminated it which led us to believe it may be the coil. Is there any electrical tests that can be done on the pick up if disconnected. Is there a certain output in Ohms for example that it should read.

(:-})

Today I didn't pull off the LH fork leg, pop the seal out and refit it upside down, as I should have.

I fitted HRC seals a couple of weeks back, and they could have gone in either way up, so I fitted one one way and the other one the way up on the other leg, so I'd know.

I know now, but it's not allowing more than a smear through, so I'll leave it until I feel like doing the job.

But I DID fit a new number plate bracket, because I've had two fracture in 2 years, and I'm not getting that type again. One cost me half a tyre and a new number plate.
Got my money back from M+P, though, on the one that was 11 months old, so not all bad.

And as a reward to the bike for cooperating, i treated it to a matching pair of HRC reservoir socks, and vaguely wiped a few flies off the headlight as a nod towards cleaning.

cybercarl wrote:Could that only affect the bike from 6ooo onwards. It basically starts to stutter from 6 though and struggles to move on past. It does get past it but like I say it stutters and struggles. It's as if it's fuel starvation but that has all been ruled out. Bizzarly enough the guy at the dyno disconnected the front cylinder and it eliminated it which led us to believe it may be the coil. Is there any electrical tests that can be done on the pick up if disconnected. Is there a certain output in Ohms for example that it should read.

(:-})

Yes the "ignition pulse generator" is listed in the "Poor Performance at High Speed" troubleshooting section.

There is a test but I haven't located it and I believe you need a "special" adapter for your multimeter, if I remember correctly.

Though like I said, the one I repaired had similar issues.

cybercarl wrote:Could that only affect the bike from 6ooo onwards. It basically starts to stutter from 6 though and struggles to move on past. It does get past it but like I say it stutters and struggles. It's as if it's fuel starvation but that has all been ruled out. Bizzarly enough the guy at the dyno disconnected the front cylinder and it eliminated it which led us to believe it may be the coil. Is there any electrical tests that can be done on the pick up if disconnected. Is there a certain output in Ohms for example that it should read.

(:-})

Also have you hooked up a timing light? It would be a good test to see what is happening with the front cyl.

No I haven't actually, that is one thing I have never done on a VTR. I do have one here somewhere as well. Been a long time since that has been used. But yes that would show if it on the F mark or not. Might just swap the pulse generator over though as I have one here. The other thing I want to check is the connector for it first as it may have come loose when we had the clutch cover off.

Got to work on my bike tomorrow at some stage though and sort my exhaust until I'm ready to whip the head off. It's my only form of transport so I will have to bodge up temporarily.

(:-})

cybercarl wrote:No I haven't actually, that is one thing I have never done on a VTR. I do have one here somewhere as well. Been a long time since that has been used. But yes that would show if it on the F mark or not. Might just swap the pulse generator over though as I have one here. The other thing I want to check is the connector for it first as it may have come loose when we had the clutch cover off.

Got to work on my bike tomorrow at some stage though and sort my exhaust until I'm ready to whip the head off. It's my only form of transport so I will have to bodge up temporarily.

(:-})

You also might have pulled a wire loose at either end. Now as long as I don't get a Pineapple surprise if this fixes the issue......

You also might have pulled a wire loose at either end. Now as long as I don't get a Pineapple surprise if this fixes the issue......

Pineapple surprise, no. You can have a couple of Melons instead.

Well I have juts gone from a bad bodge to a good bodge.


It should last me a couple of weeks and then I will whip the head off and fix it properly once and for all. I may even have a go at redoing my left link pipe at the same time. I juts need to find someone who is prepared to make a custom Mandrel bend with a one end with a flared tapered end to fit over the Arata link pipe, and the other end a straight flare to fit over the Storm pipe.

Every exhaust place I have been to so far, looks at the bike and see the tapered TI link pipe and say "sorry no, we can't do that as we don't work with Titanium" FFS they are just fobbing me off cause they don't want the job. Or want to charge silly money. My approach this time will be not be to go anywhere in person and show them the bike and problem, but to just phone up an ask for a 90 degree mandrel bend with the the specific measurements I give them.

(:-})

that looks like a much better bodge carlos, even if the silicone fails those brackets should hold up.......
i spoke to chris about the drilling needed to get the studs out, he reckons it can be done on the bike. i know you tried it once, do you want his number, have a chat with him about it, or we could always pop round his for a chat.

i spoke to chris about the drilling needed to get the studs out, he reckons it can be done on the bike.

If only it was that easy. I have tried that, but from that angle and with a home power drill it is just hard bloody work and I got nowhere before. At least if the head is off they can be drilled out on a bench drill. I may give it one more go while on the bike, I just need to buy some nice new sharp Cobolt drill bits. But I'm not getting my hopes up. I think it's a head off job. At least then the job is a whole lot easier and I can also do some work on the head. I would like to get it skimmed 10 though as well, give me a little more compression. We'll see.

(:-})

today i have cleaned my bike ready for a little ride tonight . john c.

cybercarl wrote:

i spoke to chris about the drilling needed to get the studs out, he reckons it can be done on the bike.

If only it was that easy. I have tried that, but from that angle and with a home power drill it is just hard bloody work and I got nowhere before. At least if the head is off they can be drilled out on a bench drill. I may give it one more go while on the bike, I just need to buy some nice new sharp Cobolt drill bits. But I'm not getting my hopes up. I think it's a head off job. At least then the job is a whole lot easier and I can also do some work on the head. I would like to get it skimmed 10 though as well, give me a little more compression. We'll see.

(:-})

i reckon you need to buy the best drill bits you can get, i remember your last attempt....
you barely made a dent in it. but its about the right tool for the job and the bits you used weren't up to it. if your going to tinker with the heads then fair enough, wouldn't it be better to try and get hold of some spare heads tho. that way theres no down time without your bike. or maybe get the fazer up and running.