VTR1000.ORG

Collect a rear mud guard standard thing for the pig bike .
Gave a few spares a clean up ready for fitting .

agentpineapple wrote:spent a few hours at a kwacka dealership, the z1000sx is a very nice bike, 140bhp.....

Yep i agree with that, i rode one and actually preferred it to an FZ1, slightly less power and a few more vibes but they look good, still not much soul though!!! i am testing the new Yamaha MT09 next week so will report on that.

Got the tyre swapped over, it's a 190 - but it'll do for the MOT and keep me on the road till end of season. Removed the seized chain adjusters and give 'em a clean and oil. Assembled rear sets ready to fit, just need to mod the holes on the heel guard - open them up for the larger bolts - attempt 1 was misaligned, so a little judicious filing is needed. Jet wash it today!

Fitted 6mm spacer to the rear shock. Then trimmed rear standard mudguard and fitted a reasonable sized number plate.

koko wrote:Fitted 6mm spacer to the rear shock. Then trimmed rear standard mudguard and fitted a reasonable sized number plate.

I did the 6mm rear shock spacer 3 years to old bike and last year to this newer one, much better pick up form the cornering inho... You'll feel the difference..

200 mile ride out , Reeth, Hawes, Devils bridge, the lakes, Penrith, home. Good times even though we got rained on over Kirkstone pass

Im 250lbs... front shocks bottom out everywhere its 2 inches higher or lower. What you guys recomend... bikes been sitting for a while. I find my self being more confortable on my F6 than my hawk... miss the 996 tho.

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jonjonsocal wrote:Im 250lbs... front shocks bottom out everywhere its 2 inches higher or lower. What you guys recomend... bikes been sitting for a while. I find my self being more confortable on my F6 than my hawk... miss the 996 tho.

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I would send you a text about the options you have but I managed to loose my phone today.......

Well just got a hold of the guy who found my phone and should have it back tomorrow evening.

I can contact you then but for a quick answer, you can change the springs and play with the oil weigh and level for a quick fix or we could also re-valve them if you want to go all the way and do a proper fix.

We can do either option here so it would just be parts and my normal rate to put it together for you and it would just be a few hours even if we change the valving.

Done some soldering, made up a nice switch unit so i can turn the exhaust valve on and off as i please now, bike feels totally different with the valve turned on

so much quieter and less aggressive, much smoother throttle from the low end feels like there is more torque with it back on off the bottom

i've turned it back on hoping it would return better mpg, currently getting around 55-56 mpg with it turned off on mixed motorway and town riding and I'm told that you get better fuelling with the valve activated

it doesn't feel as aggressive or racey or have that bark on idle now but it was starting to do my tits in the noise with it being used daily, it might just turn it off for the pleasure rides and back on during the weeks commuting

That sounds like a good idea Seb. A less automated system that you can use as you please, a bit like a booster valve. So what does the exhaust valve do technically. Is it like some kind of mechanical baffle/restrictor that allows more or less flow. I guess the fuelling is all adjusted by the ECU to compensate for the changes. Well done on the soldering, you should be getting quite good at that now.

(:-})

I received a quote from a local Harlow motorcycle dealer for the repair to the damage caused to the bike in the car park at work. £2040

Woh that's not good Kev, not what I wanted to hear. The insurance may write it off at those costs sh1t...what you going to do mate.

(:-})

What are they doing ! Making the bits out of titanium

Insured mine today £135 fully comp with breakdown very happy with that (sorry virt not rubbing it in)