Its an old thread about things to watch out for during a rebuild
Yep, take your time and you will be fine. Do a dummy assembly, make sure all the bolts are sorted, etc, etc. Here is an old post I found from when I rebuilt my engine.
Conrod big end bearings are different for each rod and have different part numbers. One bearing has a smaller sized oil hole in it to help equalize oil pressure, as both bearings are fed from the same oil gallery. This is the front cylinder rod, the rear has the larger hole.
Both conrods face the oil gallery to the rear of the engine, ie the front cylinder faces into the V and the rear away from the V. The conrods are different, and only go in one spot. This is not evident until you go to fit the bearings.
Crankshaft main bearings are radically different as one side feeds oil to the big end bearings. This is quite obvious when you look at the journals. The trick with the bearings is with the sizing, as you have a crankshaft code (mine is no. 1) and then you have a crankcase code (a letter). These codes cross reference to give a bearing code (a colour). The trick is each side of the crankcase can have a different code and require a separet bearing. My engine crankcase codes are B & C, so I have one green coded bearing and one brown. They are of course different sizes.
Well finally the bottom end is now assembled. So crank, rods, pistons, transmission shafts and selectors etc are all in. It has been a long wait for these pieces to be correct.
A couple of things to note with the assembly if you are doing this. As I have mentioned previously, both conrods face the same way, towards the rear of the engine, and the big end bearings for each rod are different. Beware!
No paper gaskets are used between the crancase halves, just silicone. This needs to be applied sparingly as oil galleries are close by sealing surfaces, so take note from the manual where sealant is required and do not stray from this. Ensure all dowels are inserted before assembly.
The other trouble I had, believe it or not, was to have all the bolts lined up ready to go. There are 10, 8 & 6mm bolts all of varying lengths, and requiring different torque settings. For example in the 10mm bolts of which there are 8 in total, there are 3 different lengths. These of course must go in the correct threads. So I pre-assembled the crankcase halves and sorted out all the bolts before applying sealant, and then putting all the bolts in and torquing up as per the manual. Even doing this, and having a 15cfm twin pump compressor with an air ratchet to put the bolts in before torquing, it took me longer than I would have liked ideally. I wanted it all done asap to ensure the sealant didn't start going off before I was finished.
In reality, there was most probably nothing to be concerned with, but it took longer than expected. I would suggest you be organised before you start.
unless your using new bolts. Engine internals I would be a bit more critical about.