I Bought It With a Knock

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lloydie
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Re: I Bought It With a Knock

Post by lloydie »

cybercarl wrote:Oh but Lloyd sometimes its critical that the same bolt goes in the same hole it came out of :roll: unless your using new bolts. Engine internals I would be a bit more critical about.

(:-})
Na every holes a goal !!!

I use coloured bingo dot pens over tipex on the bolts with corresponding colours on where they go :-) bit like paint by numbers :-)
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Big_Jim59
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Re: I Bought It With a Knock

Post by Big_Jim59 »

The weather is wonderful here but I am in the shop bent over a crankcase with drill and tap. I meant what I said about careful assembly. This includes cleaning and prepping the cases and paying close attention to detail. Since these cases are new to me I went through and tested all the tapped holes with the proper sized bolt. Sure enough I found a broken bolt on the clutch cover side. I drilled it out and tapped it for a Helicoil. I flipped the case and started testing on the flywheel side and BINGO! another twisted off bolt. This goes hand in hand with all the goop and sealer I am scraping off. I guess it's way too much trouble to replace a leaking gasket. Just lather it with snot and, of course when that doesn't work just over torque the bolt until it twists off! Freaking ham fisted hammer mechanic!

I used my last M6 Helicoil too.

Addendum: I made the trek to the auto parts store and, as luck would have it, they had a M6 Helicoil kit. (Ah! metric bolts finally make it to rural America.) $35 later I had replenished my Helicoil supply but it was not needed. I managed to get the second drill started straight and with the help of an Easyout I managed to pull the offending bolt without damage to the threads. I am so lucky I think I will buy a lottery ticket.

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Last edited by Big_Jim59 on Sat Feb 14, 2015 12:18 am, edited 1 time in total.
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darkember
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Re: I Bought It With a Knock

Post by darkember »

Big_Jim59 wrote:
lloydie wrote:
Big_Jim59 wrote:I received my used top and bottom case, pistons, oil pump and assorted bolts in the post today. I am just waiting on my new parts order and I will be good to go.
Give them all a good clean while your waiting .
The first step on the long road back to bike health starts with a careful clean and inspection of the cases.

This is my bold keeping system. As I stated before I use cardboard to hold bolts in order. This is for the case bolts top and bottom. I have similar cards for the side covers.

Image
Really good idea used it myself. Just remember too keep it out of reach of young kids who seem to have a knack for pulling things out of holes and leaving them in a pile on the floor :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Big_Jim59
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Re: I Bought It With a Knock

Post by Big_Jim59 »

lloydie wrote:I use coloured bingo dot pens over tipex on the bolts with corresponding colours on where they go :-) bit like paint by numbers :-)
I use colored pens to code my electrical connectors. Then all i have to do is match colors and markings. It's a little over kill but it keeps me from having to think so hard.
Motorcycling is a tool with which you can accomplish something meaningful in your life. It is an art." Theresa Wallach
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VTRDark
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Re: I Bought It With a Knock

Post by VTRDark »

That was a bit of luck with the bolt there. Weather is crap here and there is so much I want to be getting on with on the the bike :( I am unfortunately at the mercy of the weather with only having a back yard. Roll on spring.

(:-})
==============================Enter the Darkside
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Big_Jim59
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Re: I Bought It With a Knock

Post by Big_Jim59 »

cybercarl wrote:That was a bit of luck with the bolt there. Weather is crap here and there is so much I want to be getting on with on the the bike :( I am unfortunately at the mercy of the weather with only having a back yard. Roll on spring.

(:-})
Next week, the winds will shift to the north and there will be rain, freezing rain and possibly snow but for now we are in the throws of a full on Texas winter (jackets in the morning and t-shirts by noon!)

I would never have attempted the VTR build project with my former work setup. Like you I only had a back patio, open to the weather, and my work bench and tool box sat in a corner of an enclosed back porch. I still managed to do a fair amount of projects but the bikes were smaller. I sold my Kawasaki Concourse yesterday and that will give me a lot more room to spread out. It really did take up a lot of space. It was a beautiful bike but I never liked the way it rode. It kind of felt like a truck after the VFR.
Motorcycling is a tool with which you can accomplish something meaningful in your life. It is an art." Theresa Wallach
CruxGNZ
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Re: I Bought It With a Knock

Post by CruxGNZ »

When I was a kid, I accidentally put a long bolt where there was supposed to be a short bolt and punched through into a water jacket. Ever since then, I've used the bolt punch card method, just like you. It's simple, doesn't take much time at all, and you really can't screw it up... unless there are little kids around :lol:

Here's one I made real quick for the clutch cover (the second set of holes were for another clutch cover I was working on at the same time)
Image

I like watching your progress. I'll be crackin' the cases on my engine sometime soon for some go fast goodies, so it's neat seeing all this.

On my bike, the previous owner snapped a clutch cover bolt off in the engine. I tried an Easy Out and snapped that off. It was a royal pain in the *** to get that out. You really got lucky!
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Big_Jim59
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Re: I Bought It With a Knock

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CruxGNZ wrote:I like watching your progress. I'll be crackin' the cases on my engine sometime soon for some go fast goodies, so it's neat seeing all this.
I have decided to step back a bit and do some reflection. I was talking to one of the mechanics at the dealership and it dawned on me that the professional mechanic is concerned with speed. If you work fast you make money. That's a given and I know the formula well from my mechanic days but there is another way. I have my engine case and my bag of parts sitting on my work table but I started thinking, rather than tearing into it. What needs doing first? What is the first step? Giving this lots of thought, the first order of business is the pistons and ring fitting. I want to start fitting the bearings but I know that I will need to hone the cylinders a bit to rough up the bore. This is a notoriously dirty process. I know I will have to wash the cases, because of all the drilling I have done on the broken bolts so the first order of business is anything that might contaminate the build process. The cases need to have all the prep done before they can be readied to accept the bearings and the crank.

I know it sounds primitive but I usually take my stripped cases (and I mean bare cases) to the car wash for a right good blast with hot soap and water. I follow up blowing out all the drilled passages with compressed air so I know all traces of water are gone. This is the best way I know to ensure that is is really clean and at the same time I let the cylinder get a light coating of rust on them. I was taught to build an engine with dry rings and dry rusty cylinders and I see know reason to do otherwise with this build.
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Stephan
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Re: I Bought It With a Knock

Post by Stephan »

I doubt there will be rust on alusil cylinders. And if your cylinders are within the tolerance, personally I just would fit new rings. If out of tolerance, honing won't help.
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Big_Jim59
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Re: I Bought It With a Knock

Post by Big_Jim59 »

Stephan wrote:I doubt there will be rust on alusil cylinders. And if your cylinders are within the tolerance, personally I just would fit new rings. If out of tolerance, honing won't help.
I just roughed 'em up a bit, nothing much and yes they do rust. The rust just proves that they are oil free. I was the rings too before assembly. It all goes together dry
Motorcycling is a tool with which you can accomplish something meaningful in your life. It is an art." Theresa Wallach
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Stephan
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Re: I Bought It With a Knock

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Big_Jim59 wrote:
Stephan wrote:I doubt there will be rust on alusil cylinders. And if your cylinders are within the tolerance, personally I just would fit new rings. If out of tolerance, honing won't help.
I just roughed 'em up a bit, nothing much and yes they do rust. The rust just proves that they are oil free. I was the rings too before assembly. It all goes together dry
my fault, I´ve never seen pictures of rusty cylinder on vtr crankcase.
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sirch345
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Re: I Bought It With a Knock

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Big_Jim59 wrote:I worked on a rode many a three cylinder Triumph. They were really sweet. They made really good smooth power and not like a Japanese four. The power was there just off idle. The sound was fantastic from a rumbling purr at idle to a throaty shreak at full cry. The weight was rather high but because the C of G was really low the handling was really great. They were designed really as an extra cylinder on the Triumph 500, which still if my favorite Triumph twin. That engine is bullet proof. There were two things wrong with the Triumph threes, they were built horribly. The Japanese knew that you couldn't get away with building junk but the Brits and the American's hadn't figured that out. There was something wrong with every three cylinder we sold and sometimes there were things that were majorly wrong. The second factor in their demise was the advent of the Honda CB750. It was just so much more bike. It made the Triumphs look dated and they were. Richard Mann won the Dayton 200 (a grueling race with no slow sections) in 1970 on a Honda 750. In 1971 he won on a BSA Rocket Three. The difference is the Honda win destroyed the motorcycle. He nursed it to the finish line with it drinking oil. Not so the BSA. The BSA/Triumph three was a truly great engine that was too little too late.

I am quite familiar with the Triton. Cut new or redrill the engine plates and you were good to go. I never had much dealings with the old pre-unit Triumphs. I wonder if the addition of higher compression pistons didn't serve up a while plate of bottom end trouble. The later unit twins would break cranks. Sammy, a particularly good race tuner said of the 650 units Triumph "it will make 42 real horsepower and at 42.5 it will break the crank." I have seen a few broken cranks but in those days it was hard to tell if it was from performance or just bad OEM parts.

I am glad to be at, what I consider, the bottom of the project. The mystery has been reveled and now, all that is left is spending money and careful reassembly.
I think you hit the nail on the head there Jim with the British market being lost to the Japanese. The Japanese took our British designs and spent money on R&D to produce a better quality motorcycle. I feel the British motorcycle industry was convinced they had the best mass produced motorcycles in the world, but failed to plough back some of the profits into R&D to move with the times to make better motorcycles. When you look at many things that have come from the Japanese in motorcycle design, the British motorcycles had already done it, just not as well.

I had not heard of a Triumph 650 pre-unit crank breaking (although that doesn't necessarily mean there weren't any), and I know they used them in grass track racing engines in the outfits (sidecars), so they got a hard life there. I believe they preferred the 3 piece crankshaft for racing engines, IIRC the reasoning behind that was the 3 piece crankshaft had more give in it than a solid one piece crankshaft had.

I thought you'd be familiar with the Triton Jim :thumbup:
Big_Jim59 wrote:
darkember wrote:Did you ever find the missing bearing? That is the weirdest part to the whole story.
No, the bearing shell was just gone. I can only guess that the PO opened the sump, removed the rod bearing, declared it toast, put the rod cap back on and the pan together and sold it as a "project bike" that just needed reassembly.
That really is what I've been thinking all along.
Big_Jim59 wrote:Due to the damage I found around the main bearing and the indentation made when the bearing locked to the crank and spun, I have ordered a used set of cases off eBay. The seller is including the matching pistons. These are from the same seller that supplied me with the crank and rods so I am pretty sure they are all from the same engine. After a bit of reflection, I spent an additional $25 and got the oil pump from that seller as well. I'll just replace my engine one piece at a time. The seller claims that this engine only had 9K miles on it so I should have a good solid bottom end when I am done.

I am pretty sure the engine would live if I used the old components but I would be forever worried about it (I am a cranked up worrier after all) and I would never feel comfortable running it hard or selling it along to someone else. It will set my time line back a bit as I will have to reevaluate my bearing order after I examine the case for the code letters.

Might as well do it right!
I'm sure you've done the right thing there, if you're anything like me you would be kicking yourself later on when the bike is back on the road for not changing the crankcases while you had it all apart.
Big_Jim59 wrote: I know it is silly but I make rough drawings of the bolt layout on a piece of pizza box and then make holes in it to match the bolt pattern. I then jam the bolts into the cardboard holding them in the original order they came out. No guessing.
Me too :thumbup: but it's usually cereal boxes not pizza boxes :lol:
Varastorm wrote:Hi Jim, stumbled over this whilst reading about cylinder head porting on the US Superhawk site.

Its an old thread about things to watch out for during a rebuild :thumbup:
Good find Vara :thumbup: Good advice :thumbup:
tony.mon wrote: Back to the Rocket Three and Trident, I had one of the first hundred Tridents built- four speed box, drum brakes front and rear, ray-gun pipes. Lovely to look at, but heavy, and the brakes were horrible- you had to pull them on as you passed the pub before the one you wanted to stop at.

Should have kept it, it was about the only bike I've ever had that would have increased in value but hey.
I bet you wished you'd kept it Tony, I know I wish I still had many of my old British bikes, hindsight being a wonderful thing :)

Jim, Good luck with the rebuild, as you say take your time. Just one question, how on earth do you manage to keep hold of the crankcases when you clean them at the car wash :?: :problem:
Please don't tell me you get your wife to hold on to them :wink:

Chris.
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Big_Jim59
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Re: I Bought It With a Knock

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So, I get all set to get after it. I have my cases clean, my work table clean and everything is ready for assembly. I open my parts bag to find one left rod bearing shell, one right rod bearing shell and a third rod bearing shell that doesn't go to anything. I am also missing three of the four new rod cap bolts I need. I am dead in the water until a new shipment of parts arrives. I did assemble the cases with the crank and the new main bearings. I checked ‘em with Plastiguage and they are well within the wear tolerances. Then I oiled up the bearings and installed the crank to give it a spin and it’s so smooth and silky! It wouldn’t ever turn by hand before. It’s going to be good. I just gotta have patience.

Whole volumes have been written about the demise of the British bike industry. I think it was a perfect storm combined of many events. Those of you who are closer to the action can correct me if i am wrong but in the late 1970s many price supports were withdrawn by a conservative government that had a "sink or swim" attitude toward marginal businesses. Then there was the internal squabbling. BSA management hated Norton or Triumph management and they couldn't talk to each other much less build great bikes. Then there was the fact that the Brits were using worn-out machine tooling. The Japanese, have had the benefit if day and night raids by American Air Force bombers, had to start fresh with new tooling (that we sold 'em on credit.) The same issues plagued Harley Davidson but they had a few things going for them, a rabid customer base that would buy the junk they made and a protection deal worked out with the US government to slap a duty on Japanese bikes over 700cc. This gave Harley the breathing room they needed to clean up their act.

Note: I only saw two broken cranks in Triumph 650 twins and they were NOT in pre-unit motors. I did have a customer ride his 1971 Triumph to the shop, a distance of 40 miles, with a broken crank. It sounded like someone was tapping on the head with a hammer. (Kind of like my VTR!) That was the sound of the piston hitting the head. This is a testament to how robust these bikes really were. The Brit bikes got a bad and undeserved rap for unreliability. They had a few flaws but but when built right and ridden conservatively they could last a long time. A lot of the reliability problems I saw were caused by bad home mechanics and a lack of basic maintenance.
Last edited by Big_Jim59 on Mon Feb 16, 2015 4:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Big_Jim59
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Re: I Bought It With a Knock

Post by Big_Jim59 »

Stephan wrote:
Big_Jim59 wrote:
Stephan wrote:I doubt there will be rust on alusil cylinders. And if your cylinders are within the tolerance, personally I just would fit new rings. If out of tolerance, honing won't help.
I just roughed 'em up a bit, nothing much and yes they do rust. The rust just proves that they are oil free. I was the rings too before assembly. It all goes together dry
my fault, I´ve never seen pictures of rusty cylinder on vtr crankcase.
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Stephan
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Re: I Bought It With a Knock

Post by Stephan »

great service Jim :D

That leads me to question. At first I thought cylinder sleeve is cast iron, but never find any reasonable info proving it. I was told VTR1000F uses Alusil for cylinders, as Honda does in other models. But when I see the rust here, it doesn´t seem it can happen on Alloy-silicone material.

Can anybody confirm what material is cylinder sleeve?
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