VTR1000.ORG

And these, so there out the way of the cans. I don't like LED,s so there fine.

Wonky cans!!!!!! Or is it the angle ?

lloydie wrote:Wonky cans!!!!!! Or is it the angle ?

they look wonky to me, you just need a little fiddle with them paul....

Nice indicators Paul which ones are they?

or is it better to take the front wheel out, move 1 up and tighten then do the other and fit the wheel back in? bit of advise please guys( as always) Cheers Paul.

You don't even have to remove the wheel or jack the front up if doing one side at a time. I have had the bike on the sidestand before and totally removed the fork cap exposing the spring and the side that has not been touched is enough to hold the bike up. You should not drop (lift) the forks more that a total of 10mm above the clip-ons, though 5mm should be enough with an aftermarket shock. As you have higher bars take this into consideration and try to work out where the top of the clip on would be if you had them.

As for the ride height adjustment on the shock IIRC raising it 1mm there is not the same as putting a 1mm shock spacer in. I can't remember the exact equations but it's something to do with the placement of where it being adjusted and the linkage mechanism. Personally I would not put any ride height adjustment on the shock itself and just slip a 3mm spacer in up top. I'm not a fan of the ride height adjustment from an engineering point as exposing more thread is going to weaken it I would have thought.

(:-})

lloydie wrote:Wonky cans!!!!!! Or is it the angle ?

its the photo honest Ive measured from the floor with the bike upright, however the rhs does twist round a bit when ian at max revs and supersonic Them baffles are coming out today too. Bikes running peachy.

Garage in about 8 weeks after selling ours, and buying another and all offers accepted oh joy.

Got out & rode it today ...Yaaahhhh!

Even managed to scuff a slider...OK I was checking me tyre pressures at the time does that still count as knee down ?

Oh god I feel sick.... I'm sorry, all.
I've let you down and myself as well.
I can't think what made me do it, except I have just one month left on a trackday voucher, and wanted to get it used, and not waste it.

So I've...I've.......


fitted some dbkillers.



It sounds and feels like someone else's bike.
You open the throttle and it goes forwards, but you can't tell- no headache, no pedestrians shouting soundlessly at you, nothing. Cars don't run for the hedge, alarms don't go off, nothing.


On the other hand, whenever I ride someone else's bike I thrash the gonads off it, so game on

MacV2 wrote:Got out & rode it today ...Yaaahhhh!

Even managed to scuff a slider...OK I was checking me tyre pressures at the time does that still count as knee down ?

no .

tony.mon wrote:Oh god I feel sick.... I'm sorry, all.
I've let you down and myself as well.
I can't think what made me do it, except I have just one month left on a trackday voucher, and wanted to get it used, and not waste it.

So I've...I've.......


fitted some dbkillers.



It sounds and feels like someone else's bike.
You open the throttle and it goes forwards, but you can't tell- no headache, no pedestrians shouting soundlessly at you, nothing. Cars don't run for the hedge, alarms don't go off, nothing.


On the other hand, whenever I ride someone else's bike I thrash the gonads off it, so game on

oh no tony that aint good carl dont have hedges only barbed wire fences

bigtwinthing wrote:Tweaked my ride height adj on the shock, i think after reading CK,s thread that mine too may be a tad high. It defo higher than my mates Storm.

I think Lloydie said i need to lift my forks through the yokes maybe a tad more. Iam gonna try that, i have a front stand so was thinking maybe just another 5mm? is that too much? or not enough. i was hoping to put on the stand, loosen the yokes and gently lever up the wheel to get an extra 5mm. tighten up then try it? anybody tried that? or is it better to take the front wheel out, move 1 up and tighten then do the other and fit the wheel back in? bit of advise please guys( as always) Cheers Paul.

hello btt do you the mean the adjustment that requires the "c" spanner? was it easy to do ?

I never got mine to move at all

lumpyv wrote:

bigtwinthing wrote:Tweaked my ride height adj on the shock, i think after reading CK,s thread that mine too may be a tad high. It defo higher than my mates Storm.

I think Lloydie said i need to lift my forks through the yokes maybe a tad more. Iam gonna try that, i have a front stand so was thinking maybe just another 5mm? is that too much? or not enough. i was hoping to put on the stand, loosen the yokes and gently lever up the wheel to get an extra 5mm. tighten up then try it? anybody tried that? or is it better to take the front wheel out, move 1 up and tighten then do the other and fit the wheel back in? bit of advise please guys( as always) Cheers Paul.

hello btt do you the mean the adjustment that requires the "c" spanner? was it easy to do ?

I never got mine to move at all

Hi nope the c spanner adj is the preload(I think) ride height is the very bottom 22mm bolt with a small locknut above it. When i fitted it i measured the bolt length to ensure theres enough inside etc. Easy job 10 mins max. On my Shock (WP) the rebound is the grey knurled knob just above that. Preload is easy to do as well. Iam not sure of this setting but it feels ok. I just think i need to pull the forks up through the yokes a bit to get it to turn in better.I am no suspension guru but do now understand it better.(I think) Tony and Lloydie will put me right i hope if i have it wrong. Hope that helps

This weekend I did the broom handle in the rear cowl mod and then the chucking on a load of luggage and a ten year old mod and then naffed off to a campsite in the New Forest to see what fell off.

Hi peeps.







Did the stripes on this today, very pleased, but got some fluffy edges to the stripes because I was using pin stripe stickers as mask and it didn't work. Definitely moving my painting on to another level though.

Next step is to get the airbrush out and have a go at using that for fine stuff. I have used it in the past for mdel making but using earthy tones and green tones for weathering etc. I have never used it for actual colour painting. The acrylic paints I was using were rubbish for it and kept drying in the brush.

Can anyone tell me a good make of airbrush specific paint that comes in a good range of tones for doing bike stuff?

Also, a good brand of masking tape that comes in thin and doesn't creep?

Thanks

ps-it's a cbr600 tank and gurad that is going on a cbr6 custom and it's for a Ford nut, hence the mustang stripes! Suzuki Triton blue and 'GSXR600 white'

I went out and got my self a set of the newly released M7 RR fitted by B&C @ Farnworth

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got a 190/55 on the rear instead of a 190/50

WOW what a tire you thought the PR3 was good, man this is some next level sh1t!

rode it 10 miles down a wet motorway home got of the bike felt the rear tire and it was warm wow i was impressed

what a great feel from them, so plush, so grippy and so smooth to ride

rode home from work via a town and then down a 50 road (damp) about 14 mile ride, got off and felt them and no joke they was hotter than ive ever had the PR3's even after twatting the bike with the PR3's on

tip in on these if wombles awesome cannot wait for a sunny weekend on these!!

all the mags and lads that have switched to them are giving them rave reviews, its also the tires that the owner at B&C use so that says somthing and they are mainly a Michelin dealers iirc

if your in the market for new rubber give these a try they will blow your mind!!

they are so sticky to the touch but also perform amazing in the wet even brand new striaght out the shop in a rain storm didn't give me any moments

Both thumbs up for me!

seb421 wrote:I went out and got my self a set of the newly released M7 RR fitted by B&C @ Farnworth

I think these are what some of the top TT riders are using, so they must work well when pushed a little!