Oliv,
Although I've never done this (only adjustment), I've picked up the instructions for the procedure from the VFR list, which I belong to:
http://www.cs.wisc.edu/~lists/archive/v ... 00920.html
Hope you can understand all the technical terms, and that this helps.
- Ian in EnZed.
REMOVE AND INSTALL BEARINGS:
As per the first US list email I read on this (from Chris Laletin,
March 2000) - it's not a job for the mechanically-challenged or faint
of heart. But certainly achievable in a reasonably well-equipped
workshop.
1. RACE REMOVAL FROM FRAME NECK:
- Insert 200mm punch down the frame neck and rest it on the edge of the
race
- Gently tap the race out, making sure to tap a little on opposite
sides of the neck
- The same technique is used from the bottom to tap the top race up and
out of the frame
2. INSTALLATION OF NEW RACES IN THE NECK:
- slice each old frame race with an anglegrinder - these are now your
drifts. Be sure to sand any sharp edges off them!
- place new bearing into race and put drift on top
- gently tap new race into frame, tapping all the way around the drift
to seat/align the race properly
3. REMOVAL OF THE RACE FROM THE TRIPLE TREE STEM:
- you need to be able to turn the stem/bottomclamp assembly upside down
and locate it firmly
- patience and care needed!
- using a pointed cold chisel, tap around the race with firm blows to
evenly drive the race off the stem seat
- slice the old race with an anglegrinder to use it as a drift
- if you damage the stem, file any high spots off it with a file before
fitting the new race
4. INSTALLATION OF THE RACE ONTO THE STEM:
- The Honda tool to do this job looks like a piece of pipe with a
closed end
- I found some waterpipe in the shed that was the right diameter to
slip over the stem and locate perfectly against the drift - cut it to
about 25cm
- place the steering stem on a solid surface
- place the new lower steering stem race against the stem seat
- place the drift against it and locate the pipe over the drift
- firmly drive the new seat onto the stem
*this part might be worth having done by a machine shop with a bearing
press
*heating the new race may make it easier to drive on
5. REASSEMBLY
- grease bearings carefully but never completely fill bearing cages
- follow the manual carefully
- the Honda-recommended torque setting is NOT the final setting - if
you leave it at this setting (18ft/lbs in the old money) your bearings
will be too tight for safe riding. This torque value is to get any and
all 'play' out of the system with new bearings, see further info from
Bruce below.
- after eliminating 'play' - back the adjuster nut and locking nut off
(about 1/8 turn), fit and tighten the top tripleclamp then check for
final preload.
FINAL ADJUSTMENT NOTES:
"The 'preload bearing tool' is just to get the bearings approximately
adjusted (which you can do with a punch) as I _guarantee_ that if you
leave them at the 18ft lbs preload the Manual recommends your bearing
preload will be wrong. It has to be done by feel which is trial and
error. You need to remove all free play and have a little preload
on the bearings. Pick up a fish scale at an outdoor outfitters if you
want to know what 2.2-3.3 ft/lbs of preload feels like and follow the
instructions in the service Manual (although you can test preload
without pulling the fairing like they recommend). This is a very
critical part of the feel, feedback and overall handling of your VFR.
Too loose on the bearings and the front end will feel twitchy,
flightly, headshake or worse. Too tight and the front end wont be able
to correct properly and will track like a drunkin sailor with constant
weave and the propensity to follow ever little road irregularity.
Getting it right is well worth it, but the Honda preload adjuster tool
wont do it for you."
So i need advice for the repairs!
this situation put confusion in my minds.
) and about prices....
- wish my schoolboy French was half as good as your English m8
