Noise on front end

[pariah]

Been geting louder as time goes on,theres a cracking noise from the front every so offten. I had my local mechanic tighten up the head stock bearings but it,s still there.
Seems to be when braking hard and then coming back up. I have also noticed it when the front brake is applied and push the front up and down really hard.
Any ideas as to what it could be .

[Stratman]

Checked the fork oil?

[pariah]

I had thought about the oil, but I would have thought that the cracking noise would have been constantif there was a prob with the fork oil.
I,ve looked at the degree of travel on the forks and where the forks show signs of stopping indicates that there not bottoming out.

[Beamish]

Can you feel it through the bars? If not it could be the front guard or fairing (check to see if you can lift the fairing and that the headlight is secure) , if you can it would point to head bearings.

[sirch345]

If the steering head bearings are the original ball bearing type I doubt tightening them will help very much, if that's what's causing the sound you're hearing.

Chris.

[Stratman]

Taper bearings are the way forward. When they were tightened, did you look at them? Might just need regreasing too?

[pariah]

All the surgestions thats coming back seem to point to the bearings that is the problem.
I .m having new rear whel bearings fitted this week so will ask him to have a good look and see if they need repacking and adjusting or replace them to be on the safe side.

Taper bearings

[sirch345]

Taper bearings are the way forward.

I should have mentioned that Paul

Taper bearings

Most owners who have replaced their steering head bearings use tapered bearings as Paul mentions. The difference is a much bigger surface contact area with the tapered roller type, so they last (when greased at the correct service intervals) much longer than the standard ball bearing type. Also the taper roller type can be tightened up if some play is detected in them, making them more or less as good as new. Usually because of the design of the ball bearing type, if play is detected in them, there is indents in the bearing seats, so tightening them up wont really help that much because the wear is still there. The picture below shows both types used for the steering head. The bearings have been partially taken apart to show the ball bearings themselves and the rollers on the other two:-


HTH,

Chris.

[mikevtr]

Hi all,

So, Chris, do you recomend the tapered roller bearings? I need to change the bearings too, at my bike, i don't find original bearings. I saw on ebay this type of bearings, tapered roller, but i don't know what to do; because someone told me that the tapered roller are not a pressing bearings and will not suport the forces(shocks) from left -right, like the original bearings does.

I will wait for your advises !

Thanks
Mike.

[sirch345]

Yes Mike, I do recommend using tapered roller bearings for your steering head, I wouldn't use anything else.

Cheers,

Chris.

[Stratman]

Yes Mike, I do recommend using tapered roller bearings for your steering head, I wouldn't use anything else.

Cheers,

Chris.

Ditto. I was always having to tink about with the OEM ones but once the tapers are in they are sooo much better. You do need to overtighten them first to reall press them home, then back off and reset correctly. Still think that they way you have to adjust them is primitive though - there must be a better way of designing these things (not just VTR ones)

[tony.mon]

And me, went through two sets of ball types before fitting the tapers and they're still in there now.

They adjust up as well, which as has been said you can't do with balls.

For adjustment, I find that if you remove the two thin spring clips on the fork legs above the clip-ons, then loosen and lift the clip-ons up the fork leg, you can take off the centre stem nut and just tap the top yoke up the legs.

Then you can just about get a drift (old screwdriver ground to a solid end works well) to the castellated adjusters and tighten them up a bit.

I find about one notch is enough to take up the slack.

Then reassemble and you're back on the road.
Takes about twenty minutes once you've done it once.

[Stratman]

Did you ever get this sorted? Strange thing is, I thought I was getting a slight "tick" from the steering head bearings so I checked them and they are fine, but when I hold the brake and pump the forks I can hear and feel a slight click, as if something is catching over a ridge or something is loose inside the fork tube.

In addition, one side of the front is far more worn and scrubbed than the other, which makes me think this could be an internal fork problem.

Any ideas? I will have to get the tyre replaced for MOT anyway and will take the opportunity to take the forks out and inspect as best I can. May as well change the oil at the same time.

[stormingjoe]

the valves in the forks can make a noise, a sort of clicking when pumping up and down not noticeable whilst riding. On the tyre front have you got bt021 fitted, i have and they have worn wierd, think it is due to dual compound and going round right hand bends more.

[Pete.L]

Hi Strat

In addition, one side of the front is far more worn and scrubbed than the other, which makes me think this could be an internal fork problem.

Whilst an uneven wear mark can be indicative of faulty forks, bents frame, badly aligned rear tyre ect. I've been reliably informed by an old motor cycle mechanic that I'm not the demon on the round abouts I thought I was, or, so fantastic on right hand bends I can wear one side of my tyre faster than the other, but, it's just the camber of the road always putting more pressure on the right hand side of the tyre
I was only 21 and boasting how often I scrapped my pegs on the Hambrook round about. Felt a bit stupid when he put me in my place

Pete.l