Steering head bearings

[Pantaloonie]

I'm getting a 'clunk' from the head bearings under braking, feels as though the bars move fractionally too.
I'm assuming they need replacing. I don't have the facilities to do it myself, what am I likely to be charged to get it done?
Or is it possible they just need to be tightened? Any tips on doing that?
Cheers guys.

[Stratman]

They have been covered here a few times, but you could do worse than to get a Haynes manual which I have always found pretty good.

[Pantaloonie]

OK, I've checked the Haynes manual, it just confirms that it's a job I can't do at the kerbside.
Anyone paid to have theirs done, what did it cost you?

[Stratman]

You can adjust them at the kerbside - bars off (make sure you protect the fairing when you hang them over the sides - they can scratch the paint as I know from bitter experience). You'll need a large socket to remove the headstock bolt, whip off the top yoke and move the bearings round a bit, regrease, re-tighten and there you go. They might just need adjustment and greasing, not necessarily replacement.

[tony.mon]

Yep, and you don't need to lift the bars completely off the legs, just nip them up near the top. That way you can just tap the top yoke up enough to get a screwdriver or drift onto the adjuster nuts, then re-assemble it.
Did mine last night, by the porch light, took about 20 minutes.

[motostorm]

steering heads bearings is a matter of feel , with the front wheel off the ground (and no one holing the bars etc ) grab the bottom of the forks from the front and try to rock teh fork front to back , if there is a gonk , they need adjusting up , but how much is the key . with the top yoke off the adjusting nut (for this description) and the adjusting locking nut , can be clearly seen , see tab washer bend tabs free nuts grease bearings , replace and tighten gradually tighten l nut , the final position should leave no play and the steering turning freely , reverse top nut procedure.

but ....... if i was going this far , i would put in new bearing set its not much more work , and if theyve been like this for a while they need replacing.


also check brake disc play on dowels , if theres play forward and back with outer disc it can be confused with other things , hope its a help

[Stratman]

but ....... if i was going this far , i would put in new bearing set its not much more work , and if theyve been like this for a while they need replacing.

True, but only for the top set. To do the bottoms you need to remove the whole steering head.

[motostorm]

yea but didnt fancy typing the whole procedure with my one handed typing i never bother goin this far without changin them ,

[chuxsta]

i have recently had the same issue.

would get a clunk under harsh braking.
got some roller taper bearings for a steal and set about doing it myself.
you can save the top dust seal no probs but would recommend buying a new bottom dust seal.
i smashed mine to bits getting the old bottom set out.
if you have time, patients a hammer and sturdy screwdriver designed to be smacked you can do it yourself.
took me a few hours due to the fact i couldnt remove the bottom yoke nuts holding the forks so had to do it with the forks in place...
2 hours later and bruised thumbs bearings were swapped..

BUT.. if i have to do it again i might pay some one else to do it...

[tony.mon]

To remove the bottom race (tight against the dust seal on the lower triple) which is usually tight as buggery I've come up with the following method; it saves time in the long run rather than just keeping on bashing a drift in at a funny angle.

Just take the lower triple (complete with stem) and grind through the bearing until you can see the slightest bit of the stem.

Because the bearing will have got hot during the grinding process, as soon as it no longer forms a complete ring around the stem it'll spring apart and lifts off easily by hand.

Technically, you'll have slightly less material on the stem gripping the new race, but as it's pretty tight anyway and seats firmly against the lower triple (via the dust seal) it won't go anywhere or turn.

Just take it easy as you're nearly through and you'll do almost no damage.

And for refitting the races into the headstock, use the old races with a smidgeon ground off the outsides- just enough to scuff up the polished bearing surface with the grinding wheel will do it.
Then you can use the old ones as a drift, and the new ones can't be damaged by an unlucky slip of the hammer.

[Pantaloonie]

Thanks for all the tips guys, but as my fork seals have now blown, I think I'll throw it into the shop and get it all sorted out properly.