I 'd like to ask for some help from a more 'technical' person who has the patience to answer some questions for me regarding the VTR (CCTS to be more precise)
So if there are any patient & willing volunteers, please PM me with your ym ID /im ID or something.
I don't wish to start some topic about something which has been discussed here and create a flame discussion:)
Regards
CCT in depth
Re: CCT in depth
I wouldnt worry about starting a new topic...
most people on here will help with any questions or probs you have...
but if you really dont want to continue this topic, I would be more than willing to offer any info I can...
most people on here will help with any questions or probs you have...
but if you really dont want to continue this topic, I would be more than willing to offer any info I can...
Re: CCT in depth
Where are you in the country- if someone lives nearby who's already done this you might get a hand with the work!
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
Re: CCT in depth
Just put the questions you want answered up and then decide what answers you think are worth listening to.
Re: CCT in depth
I already hear the CCTS specific rattle ( and i don't mean the usual rattle, but the one that warns the inevitable).
I've got the bike for 2 months and so, and I thought I would investigate the CCTS in depth next spring (or until the spring).
I figured I can still ride from time to time until the winter hits, like this.
My mechanic said it's nothing to worry about, that it's ok until next season, but seeing what happens if the CCT bust.....I'd rather fix it this winter until I start riding again in the spring.
The thing is I'm not very technical about bikes or engines.
If I need to change the transmission (the CCTs & chains & etc) , i want to know exactly what parts need to be replaced, which are mandatory to be changed, which can remain, how many,etc.
I've read here about manual CCTS and I'm not sure which is the best solution after all: original OEM honda automatic CCTs or custom/aftermarket manual CCTs.
What am I looking at if I install new oem honda ccts, and what should i be looking for if I install manual ccts (I understand they need to be adjusted manually, and I'm not up to that task, and i have concerns regarding this being done by my mechanic or somebody else around here).
I asked for an IM id so i can chat with a chap, so i don't bother you guys with another thread about a subject which has been discussed over and over and over.
I wouldn't wanna sound retarded, asking the same questions
I've got the bike for 2 months and so, and I thought I would investigate the CCTS in depth next spring (or until the spring).
I figured I can still ride from time to time until the winter hits, like this.
My mechanic said it's nothing to worry about, that it's ok until next season, but seeing what happens if the CCT bust.....I'd rather fix it this winter until I start riding again in the spring.
The thing is I'm not very technical about bikes or engines.
If I need to change the transmission (the CCTs & chains & etc) , i want to know exactly what parts need to be replaced, which are mandatory to be changed, which can remain, how many,etc.
I've read here about manual CCTS and I'm not sure which is the best solution after all: original OEM honda automatic CCTs or custom/aftermarket manual CCTs.
What am I looking at if I install new oem honda ccts, and what should i be looking for if I install manual ccts (I understand they need to be adjusted manually, and I'm not up to that task, and i have concerns regarding this being done by my mechanic or somebody else around here).
I asked for an IM id so i can chat with a chap, so i don't bother you guys with another thread about a subject which has been discussed over and over and over.
I wouldn't wanna sound retarded, asking the same questions
Re: CCT in depth
There's always posts about CCTs so don't worry about it - that's what we are all here for! Many have replaced them and many have experience of manual ones.
The Honda ones are are very simple to replace and require no adjustment (which is what makes the adjustable/manual ones more of an unknown to set up). If you are not that technical, this is an ideal project to start getting your hands oily. If you can change the oil, you can do this, it's easier and less messy!
Look at the Honda Manual (download it for free from this site), you will then familarise yourself with them. Simply undo the two bolts with a small spanner and pop the new one in (with a new gasket if you want to be posh). Obviously do not turn the engine or move the bike when they are out.
A mechanic will charge about an hours time. and the Honda ones are about 30-40GBP.
Personally, I'd simply replace with Honda CCTs every two years, especially if you feel uncomfotable about making the adjustments to the manual ones. Since these things keep tension in the Cam Chain, if they are over tightened or too loose, then this can affect the timing. (If too tight, the piston can hit a valve and bend it - this happened to my engine, but I don't want to be the bringer of bad and very rare news)
I've also read that even if a CCT does fail, it's more likely NOT to do any damage to the engine.
Others will let you know if I'm talking baldrocks.....
The Honda ones are are very simple to replace and require no adjustment (which is what makes the adjustable/manual ones more of an unknown to set up). If you are not that technical, this is an ideal project to start getting your hands oily. If you can change the oil, you can do this, it's easier and less messy!
Look at the Honda Manual (download it for free from this site), you will then familarise yourself with them. Simply undo the two bolts with a small spanner and pop the new one in (with a new gasket if you want to be posh). Obviously do not turn the engine or move the bike when they are out.
A mechanic will charge about an hours time. and the Honda ones are about 30-40GBP.
Personally, I'd simply replace with Honda CCTs every two years, especially if you feel uncomfotable about making the adjustments to the manual ones. Since these things keep tension in the Cam Chain, if they are over tightened or too loose, then this can affect the timing. (If too tight, the piston can hit a valve and bend it - this happened to my engine, but I don't want to be the bringer of bad and very rare news)
I've also read that even if a CCT does fail, it's more likely NOT to do any damage to the engine.
Others will let you know if I'm talking baldrocks.....
No bike (yet).
Re: CCT in depth
See, I told you no one would mind
The basic instructions of how to change the tensioners are here:
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=8326
And to download the service manual (if you cant find the one on this site):
http://www.carlsalter.com/download.asp? ... 6112100102
As Gilson said, if you can change the oil, the tensioners are just as easy really...Just a little more time consuming...
Where abouts are you?
If someone on here is close to you, they might be able to lend a hand
As for the choice between the tensioners...
Honda automatic tensioners are the easiest as they are simply fit and forget until it starts rattling again...
But people have reported them failing anywhere from a few weeks to never failing...
Manual tensioners are a little more tricky to setup, but once done, a simple adjustment occasionally is all thats required.
To set them up, basically you need to turn them out (loosening the chain) until the noise changes from the normal engine noise to a very noticable clatter, then turn them back in until the noise goes away, and then give them another 1/2 turn. That should do it. Simply tighten the locknut (making sure you don't turn the adjuster at the same time).
(I was told that by an ex race mechanic)
As for the adjustment, if and when you hear the chain rattling more than normal, loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster in a bit until the noise goes away again, then tighten the locknut again.
Personally, I went for manual tensioners for 100% peace of mind that they wont fail, but I don't want to force you into manual tensioners if you dont feel comfortable or capable of setting them up...
The basic instructions of how to change the tensioners are here:
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=8326
And to download the service manual (if you cant find the one on this site):
http://www.carlsalter.com/download.asp? ... 6112100102
As Gilson said, if you can change the oil, the tensioners are just as easy really...Just a little more time consuming...
Where abouts are you?
If someone on here is close to you, they might be able to lend a hand
As for the choice between the tensioners...
Honda automatic tensioners are the easiest as they are simply fit and forget until it starts rattling again...
But people have reported them failing anywhere from a few weeks to never failing...
Manual tensioners are a little more tricky to setup, but once done, a simple adjustment occasionally is all thats required.
To set them up, basically you need to turn them out (loosening the chain) until the noise changes from the normal engine noise to a very noticable clatter, then turn them back in until the noise goes away, and then give them another 1/2 turn. That should do it. Simply tighten the locknut (making sure you don't turn the adjuster at the same time).
(I was told that by an ex race mechanic)
As for the adjustment, if and when you hear the chain rattling more than normal, loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster in a bit until the noise goes away again, then tighten the locknut again.
Personally, I went for manual tensioners for 100% peace of mind that they wont fail, but I don't want to force you into manual tensioners if you dont feel comfortable or capable of setting them up...
Re: CCT in depth
Gilly you're talking bollo*ksgilson wrote: Others will let you know if I'm talking baldrocks.....
Sorry mate I couldn't resist
The only thing I disagree with is this:-
Personally I don't think you can hardy compare changing the oil to renewing the CCT's, but that's only my opinion I know.
Insider,
But if you follow this link ( http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=8326 ) "How to remove and refit CCT's on the firestorm" this is very important before you start
you will realise what process is required to set the engine valve timing first using the timing marks, before removing either CCT. Take a look at the link and see if you can make any sense of it.Chris.
Re: CCT in depth
thanks a lot for your input, but I can assure you that I won't touch the CCTs.
Perhaps in the future I'll manage to change the oilr or something, but changing the brake fluids, brake pads, CCTs & other important stuff, I'm better off knowing that somebody more professional is doing it rather than me,regardless of the costs.
So besides the CCTs what else should be changed?
Perhaps in the future I'll manage to change the oilr or something, but changing the brake fluids, brake pads, CCTs & other important stuff, I'm better off knowing that somebody more professional is doing it rather than me,regardless of the costs.
So besides the CCTs what else should be changed?
Re: CCT in depth
x2 about the CCT changing link. Read this first.
DON'T try to do it armed with only a Haynes manual
Unless you know that they've been done within the last year or 16K miles, I'd be tempted to check/adjust the valve clearances while you've got the bike half apart...
But perhaps I'm assuming a bit more mechanical knowledge than you have.
One last try:
Where are you in the country?
DON'T try to do it armed with only a Haynes manual
Unless you know that they've been done within the last year or 16K miles, I'd be tempted to check/adjust the valve clearances while you've got the bike half apart...
But perhaps I'm assuming a bit more mechanical knowledge than you have.
One last try:
Where are you in the country?
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
Re: CCT in depth
I appreciate your advices as to get 'technical', but as stated above, when it comes to CCTs & other important stuff, I'd rather NOT start learning with my bike, with changing CCTs & etc.
PS: I'm from Romania.
PS: I'm from Romania.
Re: CCT in depth
As you are unsure about changing the ccts do what I did and print off the how to on the forum and you can do it from there.
Ive got an engine at the moment where the front cct went.
what is not often explained is that on a conventional engine if a cct went and a valve hit the piston its not uncommon to find the damage limited to top end and can be done by lifting head, and barrels off while the engine is in the frame.
with the storm the only way to remove the pistons is to remove the engine and split it in half, you can pay £160+ for a full gasket set, £250 per piston, the same for a head, and £15 each valve.
long run its cheaper to fit a second hand motor and replace the ccts for safety at the same time.
time to learn
Ive got an engine at the moment where the front cct went.
what is not often explained is that on a conventional engine if a cct went and a valve hit the piston its not uncommon to find the damage limited to top end and can be done by lifting head, and barrels off while the engine is in the frame.
with the storm the only way to remove the pistons is to remove the engine and split it in half, you can pay £160+ for a full gasket set, £250 per piston, the same for a head, and £15 each valve.
long run its cheaper to fit a second hand motor and replace the ccts for safety at the same time.
time to learn
Re: CCT in depth
it's been known! And I agree with you.....sirch345 wrote:Gilly you're talking bollo*ksgilson wrote: Others will let you know if I'm talking baldrocks.....
No bike (yet).
Re: CCT in depth
Not sure what year your bike is, but check the rectifier to see if it has any cooling fins on it. The earlier bikes didn't if it's still has the standard one, but the later ones did. Without the cooling fins the rectifier got to hot and consequently most ended up with a short life. Most of us swap ours for an Yamaha R1 or R6 unit from Ebay or a breakers, this is the cheapest option.insider wrote: So besides the CCTs what else should be changed?
The rectifier is located in the tail/seat plastic's on the righthand side (rear brake pedal side)
See this link that Beast very kindly posted:-
http://vtr1000f.wickidnet.com/
Another thing that is important to keep on top of is having the swingarm, rear shock and linkage bearings greased regularly, especially if the bike is ridden all year around. See link:-
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=11809
Keep the cable connection at the starter motor well greased with heat resistant grease. Because of where the starter motor is, it picks up all the water from the front wheel if you ride in the rain. So just lift of the rubber boot and inspect it.
Apart from that and the already covered CCT's, with general servicing as recommended by Honda, there's not normally a lot else to worry about.
Chris.
gilson wrote:it's been known! And I agree with you.....sirch345 wrote:Gilly you're talking bollo*ksgilson wrote: Others will let you know if I'm talking baldrocks.....
Chris.