a bit of info please

[kevw]

hi, ready to tackle cct's as soon as it stops raining.
i'm a bit worried about releasing the tensioners.
they shoot out fairly rapidly.
will they cause the camchain to jump or shift anything else?
also choke won't stay out when i want.
is there something i can adjust to tighten it?

[kevg]

the choke should have a nut behind the rubber shroud beside the knob, this should let you tighten the whole thing up a bit and keep it out.

not done the CCt's so i can't help you there.

[AMCQ46]

hi,
I am just doing my CCTs as well, so I might be able to help as I am seeing the problems and instructions for the first time, and we all know that it much clearer to understand after the fact!.

Make sure you have printed out the instructions from the knowledge base on this Forum, this will tell you how to set the engine at the correct TDC before removing the CCT's.........very important, and very clear.

Then to stop the CCT springing out, you need to make the locking key which is shown in the Haynes manual.
From what I have found, you also need to tape the locking key in place, especially on the rear CCT, to stop it getting dislodged as you remove the screws and try to remove the part through the brake pipe and wiring.

Are you replacing, or fitting the stoppers or both?

I am fitting stoppers, so if you have any questions I may just be at the same stage and we can share notes.
Currently I am stopped as I dont have a 2mm parallel punch in my tool box to knock out the roll pin to allow me to take the head off the plunger. Should have a punch by wednsday and restart the stopper work.

[kevw]

thanks guys.
i'm replacing the tensioners with new standard ones.
they came with the bike when i bought it.
i have the tool for locking them.
when i put in the new onesi presume they are are going to spring out at force when i unlock them. is this ok or must i make sure they don't spring out fast??
i havn't started yet as it's still raining here.

[AMCQ46]

The special tool acts as a screwdriver, so the plunger can be released slowly by easing the tool out so it is clear of the 4 locking indents then you let it extend by unscrewing.

Hope that makes sense?

[kevw]

yeah that's great.
i'd probably want to hold on to the special tool with a pliers or something cause it's a bit small and i don't want to cut the fingers off myself if it spins.
thanks for help.

[AMCQ46]

The spring force at the key is surprisingly low as the screw mechanism gives you lots of mechanical advantage.

If you have the new CCTs and the key, you can try it on the bench before you try to instal, it shouldnt need any pliers.

[Jaglifter]

Kev
Read carefully all the stuff on this site.

If you don't do it right (and apparently the haynes manual isn't 100% correct) then the sprocket can jump a tooth or two when you release the tension. Happened to me a couple of years ago!

Sorry if you know about this!

[sirch345]

Also the key that AMCQ46 mentions from the Haynes manual for locking the CCT's has a much bigger part to it to hold onto, making it much easier to release the tension under control, than the ones that are supplied with the new tensioners.

Chris.

[steveb]

I've got new manual CCT's but still not been brave enough to have a crack at it. I've printed Sirch's v good instructions.

Q - The small blade sticking out the back of the new ones, does that just unscrew anti clockwise?

Can I just take the old ones off (once the engine is TBC) and let them extend as I don't intend to reuse them? Or will they just extend until they fall out and risk me dropping a part into the engine?

[kevw]

Kev
Read carefully all the stuff on this site.

If you don't do it right (and apparently the haynes manual isn't 100% correct) then the sprocket can jump a tooth or two when you release the tension. Happened to me a couple of years ago!

Sorry if you know about this!

no need to be sorry because if i hadn't came across this site i would have probably just taken out the sparkplugs and then put in the tensioners. even though this item has been covered over and over, all the responses have been helpful and everyones input is appreciated.
didn't get to do the job today as it rained most of the day.

[Seven Of Nine Firestorm]

Would it be possible for someone doing this to take pictures and have those added to the tensioner thread, as pics would help alot in understanding where things go also ref the setting etc.

[AMCQ46]

I have my digi camera in the garage to make sure I know where everything goes when I put it back together. so I will take some photos of the Cam positions at the correct TDC, the locking key in the CCT, the stoppers etc.

Any other requests?

[AMCQ46]

Can I just take the old ones off (once the engine is TBC) and let them extend as I don't intend to reuse them? Or will they just extend until they fall out and risk me dropping a part into the engine?

The CCT looks like it stays together when extended, so no risk of parts falling in the engine. But as I am reusing mine, I tried not to let them spring open under their own force, but the locking key fell out the first time I took the back CCT out and it still came out in 1 piece.

[tony.mon]

The tensioners certainly stay in one piece when they're taken out of the engine.
1. I use a pin from a pop rivet to drive out the roll pin in the tensioner end, but a small drill bit will do just as well.
2. You can with a bit of fiddling use a tiny screwdriver (flat blade) and hold the tension against the spring instead of using the locking tool. And you don't need to worry when taking them out, you can release the tension against the two mounting cap-head screws as long as you keep the tension even. The springs aren't very strong.
3. When you've got the engine in the right place to remove them (essential) there's no real tension on the tensioner springs, so they're not going to shoot out and take your eye out, or anything.
4. Don't forget to put a few drops of grease or oil into the adjuster hole in the front one when you refit it- it's mostly this one that goes, as they run dry of oil when installed (oil doesn't run uphill ).
5. Don't forget to take the metal cap off the old one and fit it to the new one if you're replacing.
Actually, whenever the tank's off it's only a few second's work to drop a bit more into the adjuster bolt hole, on the front one.
The rear one's always full of oil anyway, so doesn't need it.
6. Lastly, don't panic when oil runs out of the rear one when you take the adjuster end cap bolt out- it always looks like there's more than there is, just place a rag underneath to catch it.