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Hi there, Has anyone out there fitted bobbins to a Firestorm. Wow much of the Billit goes inside the box swinging arm where I can drill and tap?

Funnily enough, just doing mine at the moment.

According to a post in Workshop (LSM? not sure) drilling 105mm from the end of the arm and 20mm up from the bottom edge works.

Not sure if that drills into the ally block that the adjusters hang from, hope so but depends on how thick the arm sides are.

Just waiting for the 8mm x 1.25 tap to arrive from E-Bay and I'll get mine on.

I want to measure up to make sure that the hooks on my paddock stand clear the rear spindle, so I can take it out when the bike's on the stand- should do, but the hooks look quite wide.

I'm also fitting front ones into the front spindle, I obviously then won't be able to remove the spindle while on the stand, but I've got the usual under leg adaptors for that.
But for brake servicing it should be more stable.

Pics up once done.

This is the dimensions LSM and I used (107mm in from the end X 25mm up from the bottom edge of the swingarm)

tony.mon wrote: Not sure if that drills into the ally block that the adjusters hang from, hope so but depends on how thick the arm sides are.

No Tony it's not very thick there, only about 4mm. I was hoping the same as you that there might have been a bit more material in that position. I used thread lock on the threads and I've not had any problems with them working lose so far.

I can't see it really matters where they go exactly so long as you can use the stand OK. The main thing is to fit them where they sit on a flat area of the swingarm, so the bobbin base can use all of it's area to spread the load. So in-other-words no good fitting it to low or too high on the arm as it has rounded off corners (where the sides meet the top or bottom part of the arm), it you get what I mean.

Chris.

I was going to fit mine as you suggest, Chris, then if they pull out or become loose I had two backup plans:
1. drill through to the other side and use a long bolt with a washer and nut, or
2. fit a Nutzert.

I'd rather not just fit a nutzert from the start because that means drilling a bigger hole than just the thread size (for an M8 x 1.25 cap-head screw use a 6.8 drill). Not sure of nutzert hole o/d but would expect at least 10mm.

Shame that block doesn't extend back very far inside the rectangular arm casting....

While we're on Nutzerts, the two in the rear sub-frame on mine weren't fitted tightly enough and spin when you try to undo them, so can't get the rear plastics off.

That's gonna make a respray a bit awkward!

Only other thing that occurs to me is that it might be better to use a finer thread, 1mm pitch perhaps.
Certainly wouldn't be happy with a 1.5, there will only be two threads in contact with the arm in some places that way.

UPDATE:
They've been in almost a year now; haven't loosened or needed any attention, and I bought some that came with 1mm pitch bolts for better security.
Well worth doing, and mine forever up on stands for various bits and pieces doing to it, so they've had a good test.


Wonder if you can get a spreading insert like the ones that go into plasterboard, with the two sprung arms that go through a small hole then spread out behind the panel??

Thanks for the sound advice. I will have a go in the near future.

I did this to my CBR600FS1.

Same principle on the 'Storm.

What you need:

A Drill, a selection of drill bits (HSS) up to 6.5mm, an 8mm fine thread tap and holder, punch and hammer.

Punch a guide hole where you want the bobbins, fire up the drill and take a deep breath! The setion I drilled is hollow so careful! Once you have a 6.5mm hole use the tap to cut the 8mm thread.



Now fit your bobbins and use them!



Hope this helps!

The overall thickness doesn't really matter that much as long as the bobbin doesn't come loose. I used a good quality stud-lock (not nut lock) on mine and they've been fine for years now. If worried, a dab of 24hr Araldite (not Rapid) would do the job too. One of my best mods (and the bike now has 37 mods of various types on it!!!!!!)
LSM

using this method, what was the final torque number used to tighten the bobbin bolt?

I'm afraid I can't help you with the final torque number, I just used my experienced to tighten it up to what I thought was acceptable, remembering the swingarm is alloy (softer than steel). It must have been close to being right as it's not moved yet. I can guess why you asked though, you're concerned you might strip the threads
I used stud and bearing fit to thread lock the threads, which is stronger than ordinary thread loc.




Chris.

sirch345 wrote:I'm afraid I can't help you with the final torque number, I just used my experienced to tighten it up to what I thought was acceptable, remembering the swingarm is alloy (softer than steel). It must have been close to being right as it's not moved yet. I can guess why you asked though, you're concerned you might strip the threads
I used stud and bearing fit to thread lock the threads, which is stronger than ordinary thread loc.




Chris.

We'll I have blue(removable) loctite and also red(permanent) loctite. I used the blue but now I'm thinking red might be better because it will completely lock the bolt and keep it from moving on the soft alum threads. The blue just keeps things snug. The red u have to heat with a blowtorch to remove.

I actually just had my swinger off to have a brace welded on. Idk why I didn't have him weld on alum blocks for bobbins though......

E.Marquez has posted some great info and links on the various threadlocks and usage with more relevance to your side of the pond. Ours are marketed slightly different I think.

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... te#p316755

(:-})

Used Rivinuts in the end. No problems.

Used Rivinuts in the end. No problems.

simo wrote:Used Rivinuts in the end. No problems.

I taped right into the swinger for 2 reasons.

1. It's a smaller hole drilled into the swingarm.

2. If it ever fails I can drill the hole larger to use a rivnut

Jscobey wrote: I actually just had my swinger off to have a brace welded on. Idk why I didn't have him weld on alum blocks for bobbins though......

we've all done things like that one way or another,


Chris.