Hi all, I finally got hold of a new clutch cover, when I get round to swapping them over I thought I would try and sort out my dodgey clutch, which if I rev too much and let clutch out too quick the bike begins to move off then clutch re-engage then quickly off again sometimes resulting in a stall, but always looks clumsey. This doesnt happen if I let clutch out real slow. So was wonderin while cover is off should I change the clutch plates ? Is this a matter of undoing the spring bolts sliding out plates then new ones in, or is it more complex, or does the problem lie elsewhere?
Matt.
Clutch grab
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benny hedges
- Posts: 6110
- Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:09 pm
- Location: Warrington
Re: Clutch grab
i think before you do anything you need to get some fresh fluid in and make sure you haven't got any air in there.
what's the lever action like???
did you use a gasket, if so was it a oem one?
oh and check your oil level and type
all that happens when you pull the lever is it pushes a piston from a larger volume mc into a smaller volume slave cylinder and puts out more force than you put in.
that pushes a pushrod and separates the clutch plates.
nothing special about the storm clutch
if it's grabbing either it isn't pushing the plates far apart enough or it's pushing it far enough but it's creeping back together - ie air in the system or hydraulic leak - probably from the slave cylinder pushrod oil seal where you cant see it.
if you have low fluid level in the mc then you have a leak somewhere - mine was leaking from the o rings under the reservoir.
could also be the slave cylinder piston is sticking
get a free manual from the workshop bit and see how it works.
*sorry, as usual i didnt read your post proper lol
what's the lever action like???
did you use a gasket, if so was it a oem one?
oh and check your oil level and type
all that happens when you pull the lever is it pushes a piston from a larger volume mc into a smaller volume slave cylinder and puts out more force than you put in.
that pushes a pushrod and separates the clutch plates.
nothing special about the storm clutch
if it's grabbing either it isn't pushing the plates far apart enough or it's pushing it far enough but it's creeping back together - ie air in the system or hydraulic leak - probably from the slave cylinder pushrod oil seal where you cant see it.
if you have low fluid level in the mc then you have a leak somewhere - mine was leaking from the o rings under the reservoir.
could also be the slave cylinder piston is sticking
get a free manual from the workshop bit and see how it works.
*sorry, as usual i didnt read your post proper lol
You do not have to say anything. But it may harm your defence if you do not mention when posting something which you later rely on in quote. Anything you do say may be ripped to sh*t.
Re: Clutch grab
Try searching the workshop section- there's lots of threads on this fairly common problem.
It happens on some engines; not on others.
Sorry, Benny, I've tried bleeding the fluid, checking and swapping out the various master and slave cylinder parts, didn't make a difference, assuming you haven't got a problem with feeling and bite point, and not dragging going into first more than usual. But can't hurt to check before getting into the engine.
I tried uprated Barnett springs, helped but didn't cure it. Wasn't slipping anyway; if yours is slipping then consider doing that mod, but first make sure you aren't using car-spec oil and try semi rather than fully synthetic oil.
There's a mention on one thread of swapping the three inside plates in the clutch for the outside ones- I haven't tried this so this might be worth a go.
I did try replacing all the clutch bearings- no difference.
Also tried several other second-hand clutch packs and cages- no difference. (and all well within wear limits)
But then the major shaft bearing behind the clutch (the one set in the crankcases) failed.
It could be coincidence, but it just might be that some bearings aren't made with the right tolerances?, or maybe wear prematurely?
This would potentially allow the shaft to rattle around in the bearing (most likely clearance or wear issues between ballrace faces) leading to the noise and instant lock-up.
No easy fix here- it would mean dropping the engine out and splitting the cases to get the bearing out.
TBH, not worth it unless you're playing on the drag strip or are in the habit of making race starts.
But even then, because you have so much torque at your disposal it's easier to just ride round the problem by getting the clutch engaged early adn then using the torque to get up to the higher rev range.
I would have just learned to put up with this, but when the clutch bearing failed I changed the engine to a spare one, and there was no problem on that engine at all- clutch works perfectly normally.
But having tried almost everything I can think of except:
1. swapping inner and outer clutch plates and
2. replacing big bearing behind clutch
I haven't found a cure.
Soon I'll be building an engine with hi-comp pistons, gas-flow heads and maybe cams as well, and if that engine has a grabby clutch then I'll try replacing the big bearing.
More work than I want to do, but at least I'll know for sure what causes this very annoying problem.
It happens on some engines; not on others.
Sorry, Benny, I've tried bleeding the fluid, checking and swapping out the various master and slave cylinder parts, didn't make a difference, assuming you haven't got a problem with feeling and bite point, and not dragging going into first more than usual. But can't hurt to check before getting into the engine.
I tried uprated Barnett springs, helped but didn't cure it. Wasn't slipping anyway; if yours is slipping then consider doing that mod, but first make sure you aren't using car-spec oil and try semi rather than fully synthetic oil.
There's a mention on one thread of swapping the three inside plates in the clutch for the outside ones- I haven't tried this so this might be worth a go.
I did try replacing all the clutch bearings- no difference.
Also tried several other second-hand clutch packs and cages- no difference. (and all well within wear limits)
But then the major shaft bearing behind the clutch (the one set in the crankcases) failed.
It could be coincidence, but it just might be that some bearings aren't made with the right tolerances?, or maybe wear prematurely?
This would potentially allow the shaft to rattle around in the bearing (most likely clearance or wear issues between ballrace faces) leading to the noise and instant lock-up.
No easy fix here- it would mean dropping the engine out and splitting the cases to get the bearing out.
TBH, not worth it unless you're playing on the drag strip or are in the habit of making race starts.
But even then, because you have so much torque at your disposal it's easier to just ride round the problem by getting the clutch engaged early adn then using the torque to get up to the higher rev range.
I would have just learned to put up with this, but when the clutch bearing failed I changed the engine to a spare one, and there was no problem on that engine at all- clutch works perfectly normally.
But having tried almost everything I can think of except:
1. swapping inner and outer clutch plates and
2. replacing big bearing behind clutch
I haven't found a cure.
Soon I'll be building an engine with hi-comp pistons, gas-flow heads and maybe cams as well, and if that engine has a grabby clutch then I'll try replacing the big bearing.
More work than I want to do, but at least I'll know for sure what causes this very annoying problem.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.