the end of my tether is in sight - won't rev

[tony.mon]

Possible, certainly the trip reset might just be the button stuck closed.
Shouldn't do it, though.

But if you're getting some sort of short behind the clocks, it just could be that current is interfering with the rev counter output into the rev limiter- try disconnecting the clocks and running it.

[Gerrit]

Hi Tony!

This is interesting that you mention the Revcounter - Revlimiter.

In the last few months I have noticed that at high revs, the rpm needle was very unstable, I put it down to the vibrations of the twin and old age.

I will remove the clocks and again do a carefull inspection of the wiring into the connectors.

Many thanks
Gerrit

[benny hedges]

i think, does the icm read the tacho, or does the tacho get it's signal from the icm?
im convinced this is the answer, and once you've found the solution there will be a lot of very happy unhappy owners with the same problem.

i'd like to see what phil has to say re the electronic limiter, and how to disable it.... for my own selfish reasons as well

[Gerrit]

Yeah I am also convinced that the problem is somewhere at the wiring in front of the clocks....But what am I lookoing for, I checked it out so many times, not in a rush, slow & methodically.....

What am I looking for here ?

What about a fault /short within the dash unit iself?

It puzzles me that the rpm needles started jumping over the past few weeks, Then the light bulb blows, and now the trip meter resets after ingnition on/off.

the answer is somewhere behind the headlight

Gerrit

[benny hedges]

the answer is somewhere behind the headlight

Gerrit

or in the wiring loom, probably where the thick bunch of cables goes around the steering head, gets flexed every time you go round a bend, couldve been damaged by overvoltage / over current when the rr went?
or water got into the loom??

i admire your persistance

[Phil-VTwin]

i'd like to see what phil has to say re the electronic limiter, and how to disable it.... for my own selfish reasons as well

Sorry mate its built into the ICM and the tacho gets it signal from it.

[benny hedges]

ah well, back to the drawing board lol - gerrit, looks like you need to try a different icm bud

[Gerrit]

I think I might be onto the solution guy's, I need some expert opinions please.

I have slowly worked through the manual over recent weeks, and last nite I did the test as explained on page 19-12 of the Honda manual.

Tachometer - Inspection.
Tests 1 to 3 are OK, however doing Test 4. Peak Voltage:- I do not get the desired results.

At idle, I only read .5v on the multimeter, and as the rpm goes up, It barely reads 2V.

The manual says:-
If the measured value is less than 10.5v, replace the Igintion Control Module (ICM)
1) Do I take the plunge and fork out six grand to Honda SA for a new ICM?

2) Is there perhaps another test that will confirm the ICM is kaput?

3) What would cause the ICM to go faulty, it would be daft to replace the ICM, and it blows again ?

4) Any links to source the ICM, as Honda SA is just nasty with their pricing.

Many thanks.
Gerrit

[Phil-VTwin]

There is always this option http://www.ignitech.cz/english/aindex.htm

Does your meter have a peak voltage setting?

[Gerrit]

I am not an electrical expert.

I turn the Multimeter dial to DCV, and take a reading, at all the different DCV increments though.

Gerrit

[Phil-VTwin]

The signal you are trying to read is actually an AC voltage hence the need for a peak voltage adapter, without one of these disregard any reading you get as its not accurate.



If you want to make a Direct Voltage Adapter or Peak Voltage Adapter here is a simple circuit.....



The accuracy depends on the sampling rate of your meter, the quicker it takes samples the more accurate the reading.

[Gerrit]

Thanks Phil!

I was about to order a unit from these guys http://www.ignitech.cz/english/aindex.htm

I will get the IT tech at work to make up a tester and do the check for me.

Gerrit

[Phil-VTwin]

See if you know anyone who has a Fluke meter as some of these (and other makes) do have a peak voltage setting

[Gerrit]

Hi Guys! Your thoughts - ideas pls.

I have nothing to lose in replacing the bike's ICM, as I have now tried everything. However, HONDA SA is crazy with their pricing, but at this site they have a alternative to the Honda unit, plus it has a .com port, and with the supplied software it can be manipulated.

http://www.ignitech.cz/english/aindex.htm

I made contact with them and below is the reply I received, with links to the relevant files.
http://www.cornerspeed.co.za/price%20list%20eur.pdf
http://www.cornerspeed.co.za/manual_sparker.pdf
http://www.cornerspeed.co.za/manual_honda_tci.pdf
http://www.cornerspeed.co.za/HonaTCi.jpg

Hello

Has original ignition 16 pin connector?
We can offer you two solution

If yes, we can offer you two solutions

1) Honda TCI with the same connector as original.. It has not clutch master
and gear shift light. Price is in price list.

2) TCIP4 standard with adapter cable to Honda connector. It has clutch
master and gear shift light.. Price for unit is in price list.
Price for adapter cable is 20 euro with VAT.

If you send us your choice and address we send you invoice.

Regards

Jan Matous
Ignitech s.r.o.

[Gerrit]

See the clever little device below, that I connected between the Spark Plug & the Plug lead

It shows the spark, and when I take the revs up to 5000rpm when the misfire starts, the spark does not dissapear, even though the misfire persists.

I stripped the carbs again last nite, in slow motion, they are 100%



Gerrit