hey,
recently I have some problems with my Firestorm. Bought it 1,5 years ago, rode like an angel. Until recently (2 months ago) she started shaking a bit when I was riding somewhere between 2500 and 4500 rpm. And it got worse and worse, and now It's no fun any more to ride. Went to the local Honda dealer, he has tested her and the outcome was: She 's running low on fuel due to my open Exhaust pipes. Rode 12.000kms last year, with the same pipes mounted, no problem at all. I understood that a Firestorm doesn't have adjustable needles? Didn't check it yet myself.
Besides the open exhaust system she completely standard.
anybody ever had the same complaints?
What might be a solution to my problem?
Would a dynojet carburettor kit do the job?
And is it doable to install such a kit yourself?
Merci!
Gwenn
Shaking Strom
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gwennmickey
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2010 7:16 pm
Shaking Strom
VTR1000F Firestorm - Blue - 2002 - Named: 'Josephine'
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benny hedges
- Posts: 6110
- Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:09 pm
- Location: Warrington
Re: Shaking Strom
have you checked the chain & sprox? sounds like theyre worn/ incorrect tension.
that's the cause of most vibration tbh.
check rear wheel alignment too.
& check the engine mounts are good & tight.
torque settings are in the manual from the link in the workshop section.
just because it's been in a honda dealer, dont take it for granted theyve checked the obvious ;)
oh and re the fuelling... 12000 - is that on one air filter?
cans alone shouldnt really affect the fuelling that much, as the firestorm is jetted rich anyway.
that's the cause of most vibration tbh.
check rear wheel alignment too.
& check the engine mounts are good & tight.
torque settings are in the manual from the link in the workshop section.
just because it's been in a honda dealer, dont take it for granted theyve checked the obvious ;)
oh and re the fuelling... 12000 - is that on one air filter?
cans alone shouldnt really affect the fuelling that much, as the firestorm is jetted rich anyway.
You do not have to say anything. But it may harm your defence if you do not mention when posting something which you later rely on in quote. Anything you do say may be ripped to sh*t.
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gwennmickey
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2010 7:16 pm
Re: Shaking Strom
Thanks for the quick reply!
I'm pretty sure it has something to do with lac of fuel.
For example, when You (cold)start the bike you have to use the "choque" (don't know the correct English word). When She's warm enough normally you push it back in, but when I keep it a bit open (stationary rpm about 1400) All problems are gone. When I push the "choque" completely in, the shaking is back, below 4500rpm anyway. Above 4500rpm, takes of like a rocket.
Gwenn
I'm pretty sure it has something to do with lac of fuel.
For example, when You (cold)start the bike you have to use the "choque" (don't know the correct English word). When She's warm enough normally you push it back in, but when I keep it a bit open (stationary rpm about 1400) All problems are gone. When I push the "choque" completely in, the shaking is back, below 4500rpm anyway. Above 4500rpm, takes of like a rocket.
Gwenn
VTR1000F Firestorm - Blue - 2002 - Named: 'Josephine'
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benny hedges
- Posts: 6110
- Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:09 pm
- Location: Warrington
Re: Shaking Strom
the fact you have vibration would suggest the problem is on only one cylinder and the other cylinder is doing all the work, pushing the bad one round.....
i think maybe you should strip the carbs and look for a blocked pilot jet or emulsion tube in one carb.
seems once you get past that stage of carburation the problem goes away and it runs ok on both cylinders again.
may also be worth you adding a fuel strainer in the fuel line to catch any more debris before it gets in the carbs
i think maybe you should strip the carbs and look for a blocked pilot jet or emulsion tube in one carb.
seems once you get past that stage of carburation the problem goes away and it runs ok on both cylinders again.
may also be worth you adding a fuel strainer in the fuel line to catch any more debris before it gets in the carbs
You do not have to say anything. But it may harm your defence if you do not mention when posting something which you later rely on in quote. Anything you do say may be ripped to sh*t.
Re: Shaking Strom
First, balance the carbs.
That needs doing every few months anyway, as they go out of balance quite easily on these bikes.
Yes, the needles are adjustable, you just add or take away the small washers underneath the needle clip. But he's sort of right, the standard needles don't have several grooves machined into them for differing clip positions.
Benny's right about checking the engine mounting bolts.
There's only three, all in the frame going through the top engine mounts where the engine meets the frame.
A special tool is needed as the nuts aren't accessible with normal sockets.
And chain/sprockets, too, although you'd hope that a dealer could spot that one.
If you've had the bike that long you will have worked it out by now, but you need to set the chain tension with a person of your weight ON THE BIKE.
If you set it with no-one on, the chain over-tightens when a rider is on, and this makes a lot of noise and vibration, and ruins the chain, sprockets, and sometimes the gearbox output shaft bearing.
Your dealer is wrong, if the bike's run ok with those cans on it should be able to do so again.
Unless the can mounting bolts are loose!
Lastly, have the CCT's been replaced with manuals?
Because if a CCT has failed, and a cam has jumped one tooth it will not run smoothly, and could give the symptoms you describe.
It's easy to check, undo the cap screw on the end of the standard CCT and put a small screwdriver down it, (flat blade) and if you can feel spring tension then they're ok. If it turns freely one way but goes tight the other, then you have a failed CCT.
If one has failed, they will not feel the same, and it is incredibly unlikely that they have both failed at the same time.
That needs doing every few months anyway, as they go out of balance quite easily on these bikes.
Yes, the needles are adjustable, you just add or take away the small washers underneath the needle clip. But he's sort of right, the standard needles don't have several grooves machined into them for differing clip positions.
Benny's right about checking the engine mounting bolts.
There's only three, all in the frame going through the top engine mounts where the engine meets the frame.
A special tool is needed as the nuts aren't accessible with normal sockets.
And chain/sprockets, too, although you'd hope that a dealer could spot that one.
If you've had the bike that long you will have worked it out by now, but you need to set the chain tension with a person of your weight ON THE BIKE.
If you set it with no-one on, the chain over-tightens when a rider is on, and this makes a lot of noise and vibration, and ruins the chain, sprockets, and sometimes the gearbox output shaft bearing.
Your dealer is wrong, if the bike's run ok with those cans on it should be able to do so again.
Unless the can mounting bolts are loose!
Lastly, have the CCT's been replaced with manuals?
Because if a CCT has failed, and a cam has jumped one tooth it will not run smoothly, and could give the symptoms you describe.
It's easy to check, undo the cap screw on the end of the standard CCT and put a small screwdriver down it, (flat blade) and if you can feel spring tension then they're ok. If it turns freely one way but goes tight the other, then you have a failed CCT.
If one has failed, they will not feel the same, and it is incredibly unlikely that they have both failed at the same time.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.