I have had my 05 storm from 3700 km's,It's now done 29000 but since i got it,whenever i nail it from standstill it
makes a horrible squeeling graunching sound, so much so that i try not to do it too often,as you can imagine it takes away some of the fun.
I dont have plans of getting rid so is there a cure or do you have to live with it?
What is this noise from my clutch?
What is this noise from my clutch?
There's nuttin like a throbbin " V"
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benny hedges
- Posts: 6110
- Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:09 pm
- Location: Warrington
Re: What is this noise from my clutch?
well, be carefull tbh as the next thing you might experience is extreme grabbing - not nice when you let rip with the throttle and the bike lurches skywards or stalls with traffic up yer butt.
what's your oil like??? is it low or due a change?
also imo the storm clutch springs are very weak for a 100 horse bike... especially a torquey one... there are some uprated clutch springs on ebay for £13.
might be worth you investing in some, plus a clutch cover gasket, new oil, filter & coolant.
make a day of it.
at least it will give you the opportunity to check the plates for wear & the metal plates for blueing.
go for the oil change first tho as that's the most likely cause.
what's your oil like??? is it low or due a change?
also imo the storm clutch springs are very weak for a 100 horse bike... especially a torquey one... there are some uprated clutch springs on ebay for £13.
might be worth you investing in some, plus a clutch cover gasket, new oil, filter & coolant.
make a day of it.
at least it will give you the opportunity to check the plates for wear & the metal plates for blueing.
go for the oil change first tho as that's the most likely cause.
You do not have to say anything. But it may harm your defence if you do not mention when posting something which you later rely on in quote. Anything you do say may be ripped to sh*t.
Re: What is this noise from my clutch?
It is due a change in about 1000km's,the level is ok. I hav'nt had it lock up on me cos as soon as i hear it squeal i tend to back off.
I have just read that some people think its a main bearing behind the clutch but surely since its done it from nearly new this shd not be the case.
I use semi syn oil, I am generaly not hard on clutches so the plates shd not have overheated or be badly worn but I might take up yr advice on springs.
I have just read that some people think its a main bearing behind the clutch but surely since its done it from nearly new this shd not be the case.
I use semi syn oil, I am generaly not hard on clutches so the plates shd not have overheated or be badly worn but I might take up yr advice on springs.
There's nuttin like a throbbin " V"
Re: What is this noise from my clutch?
Ideally we'd find a bike that did this, then try one thing at a time until we find out exactly what this is!
But I have gone through this procedure with one of my engines, and having swapped out the whole clutch, changed springs for Barnett uprated ones, changed anti-squeal shim and spring, filed clutch tangs smooth, etc etc, I could not find a solution. I just gave up and learned to get it engaged early THEN rip the throttle open.
So the only thing left, IMHO, is the bearing..... And since I have now pulled apart four of these engines, and felt some wear on the bearing in all four, that might well be where the problem is.
My current engine had the bearing replaced while the engine was apart, but I don't know if it squealed before I got my hands on it, so that won't help.
One thing to consider is the accepted method of locking off the clutch in order to undo the clutch centre nut or timing pinion.
Although a clutch locking tool is the best thing for this job, they're quite expensive (and not needed very often) and so Haynes suggests an alternative. This involves inserting a piece of stout denim between the meshing primary gears to lock them up.
I'm not happy with this, as it puts an extreme load on the main bearing at the RH crank end, but also on the (you guessed it) large bearing behind the clutch.
I wonder if trying to solve the problem adds to the bearing's wear? As it's a ball race, all of that sideways load is focussed on just the three or so balls in the 8 0'clock position which are actually in contact at the LH side of the bearing as you look at it with the clutch removed. That's an awful lot of pressure on quite a small collective load area, and may well pit the bearing seats inside the race.
Has anyone swapped out an engine just for this fault?
If so, the old engine would be perfect for a bearing replacement and re-install, just to see what happens. If you left all other components as they were, it would isolate that fault, and either it would fix it or not.
Re the point about the bike doing this from nearly new, it's entirely possible that the bearing was under-specified in the first place. Seems that a roller type might be a better option anyway, but the sideways loads from gear selection (fork movement and dog engagement) would produce a lateral force which would need to be dealt with, so that solution is out.
Too many bikes are affected for it to be a bad batch of bearings.
Mmmmm, I wonder if the bearing doing that job in the SP1's and 2's is different? I've not heard of the same problem being mentioned with them. Off to do a bit of digging......
By the way, in order to undo the clutch centre nut without putting a huge sideways load on the bearing, I have made a clutch locking tool from some old clutch plates bolted through and a bar- it works fine. It locks the inner and outer clutch parts together, and then you can place a rod or spanner between the clutch outer and the frame or footrest to stop it rotating.
A large strap clamp would also do the trick, something like a larger version of the ones used for oil filters, going round the clutch outer.
But I have gone through this procedure with one of my engines, and having swapped out the whole clutch, changed springs for Barnett uprated ones, changed anti-squeal shim and spring, filed clutch tangs smooth, etc etc, I could not find a solution. I just gave up and learned to get it engaged early THEN rip the throttle open.
So the only thing left, IMHO, is the bearing..... And since I have now pulled apart four of these engines, and felt some wear on the bearing in all four, that might well be where the problem is.
My current engine had the bearing replaced while the engine was apart, but I don't know if it squealed before I got my hands on it, so that won't help.
One thing to consider is the accepted method of locking off the clutch in order to undo the clutch centre nut or timing pinion.
Although a clutch locking tool is the best thing for this job, they're quite expensive (and not needed very often) and so Haynes suggests an alternative. This involves inserting a piece of stout denim between the meshing primary gears to lock them up.
I'm not happy with this, as it puts an extreme load on the main bearing at the RH crank end, but also on the (you guessed it) large bearing behind the clutch.
I wonder if trying to solve the problem adds to the bearing's wear? As it's a ball race, all of that sideways load is focussed on just the three or so balls in the 8 0'clock position which are actually in contact at the LH side of the bearing as you look at it with the clutch removed. That's an awful lot of pressure on quite a small collective load area, and may well pit the bearing seats inside the race.
Has anyone swapped out an engine just for this fault?
If so, the old engine would be perfect for a bearing replacement and re-install, just to see what happens. If you left all other components as they were, it would isolate that fault, and either it would fix it or not.
Re the point about the bike doing this from nearly new, it's entirely possible that the bearing was under-specified in the first place. Seems that a roller type might be a better option anyway, but the sideways loads from gear selection (fork movement and dog engagement) would produce a lateral force which would need to be dealt with, so that solution is out.
Too many bikes are affected for it to be a bad batch of bearings.
Mmmmm, I wonder if the bearing doing that job in the SP1's and 2's is different? I've not heard of the same problem being mentioned with them. Off to do a bit of digging......
By the way, in order to undo the clutch centre nut without putting a huge sideways load on the bearing, I have made a clutch locking tool from some old clutch plates bolted through and a bar- it works fine. It locks the inner and outer clutch parts together, and then you can place a rod or spanner between the clutch outer and the frame or footrest to stop it rotating.
A large strap clamp would also do the trick, something like a larger version of the ones used for oil filters, going round the clutch outer.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.