When I was looking for a fault/misfire on a firestorm I checked the valve timing it all seems to be ok but I did notice that there is a small gap between the chain and the cog as the cog goes around when manually turning the engine, there is no slack on the chain but there is a definate gap , I seem to recall seeing a picture on here somewhere where this gap is visible even in the picture is this normal.
The bike starts now with no abnormal noise anywhere.
Bugger it found the starter power lead is buggered where it is attached to the starter motor the nuts are eaten away and the post is knackered too
Cam Chain
Re: Cam Chain
If corrosion has eaten away the nut, under the rubber hood, for the starter lead - then the corrosion is only a composite washer and seal or two from having gotten into the starter motor itself. Keep it Vaselined or greased up under the hood esp with all the salt on the roads for the foreseeable future. If starting becomes more laboured then the starter is likely as shot as your post ;)
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Re: Cam Chain
Not good news, as the small bolt that protrudes through the motor casing is not available as a separate part.
So you'll need to grind an (M6?) bolt to fit.
Once you strip the motor you can easily see what's required, thinning the head on a normal hex screw and grinding flats on it should do.
Make sure that you refit or replace the isolating washers, as they are critical to stop shorts from the screw to the body of the starter.
You should be able to get a replacement cable made up at a car electrics place, with suitably-sized ring terminals soldered on.
Due to the current demanded I wouldn't consider crimping only in this case.
I have a spare starter motor that I've rebuilt if you get stuck or can't be bothered.
So you'll need to grind an (M6?) bolt to fit.
Once you strip the motor you can easily see what's required, thinning the head on a normal hex screw and grinding flats on it should do.
Make sure that you refit or replace the isolating washers, as they are critical to stop shorts from the screw to the body of the starter.
You should be able to get a replacement cable made up at a car electrics place, with suitably-sized ring terminals soldered on.
Due to the current demanded I wouldn't consider crimping only in this case.
I have a spare starter motor that I've rebuilt if you get stuck or can't be bothered.
Last edited by tony.mon on Fri Dec 24, 2010 10:03 am, edited 1 time in total.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
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Re: Cam Chain
Starter motor stripped, the nuts (2) were both shagged as was the post there was nothing left of the top nut it had completely corroded away and I had to pick it off with a dentist's pick, surprised that the starter was still working.
Second nut I had to cut off with a dremel the post when removed had been burning so cut two pieces of brass and soldered them onto a post I had of a smaller motor and then filed to fit reassembled and fitted the starter jobs agoodun.
What a difference in the starter performance
Second nut I had to cut off with a dremel the post when removed had been burning so cut two pieces of brass and soldered them onto a post I had of a smaller motor and then filed to fit reassembled and fitted the starter jobs agoodun.
What a difference in the starter performance

Re: Cam Chain
Well done, must check mine again soonish- it isn't starting well but TBH I'm thinking that the cheap wet acid battery is up for renewal.
But I'll check the connections to the starter motor and lead first, just to make sure.
Wish I could afford a Li Fe Po lightweight battery, though.........
But I'll check the connections to the starter motor and lead first, just to make sure.
Wish I could afford a Li Fe Po lightweight battery, though.........
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.