Suspension Squeek

[BarryH]

As it says really. Noticed it this morning, took a flyby Boxhill. Had a brew, I don't eat the Roadkill Burgers, and it squeeked when I put my lard butt on it. I know I haven't run over any mice, did get a bunny this morn though! Nasty man, so it looks as if the linkages need looking at/lubing. The suspension still moves nice and freely though. How do you support the bike. I can't use a paddock stand. Is it possible to do it with an Abba stand?

[lloydie]

stupid reply removed sorry

[MacV2]

it will be the top shock mount well it was on mine ,
a bit of lube job done , spray the lube then bounce up and down on it

Barry I wouldn't pay much attention to the above........It's most likely to be the shock linkage which will be at the bottom of the shock right by the rear header, gets hot, dries out, squeaks! Has been known to seize & crack the linkage completely. You will have to raise the rear of the bike completely to do this so paddock stand no good, Abba will work though as that goes on the swingarm pivot, correct? Think its exhaust off as well for access, but i'm sure someone whos done it will be along soon to correct me if I'm wrong. Check the workshop database for a good write up of it all.
Mac

[Animal]

The exhaust needs to come off.
The suspension seized up on mine and needed new bearings.
An Abba stand will do the job nicely without fear of the bike falling over, unlike when I did the job with an axle stand underneath the engine casing.
Strip the whole lot out and check for any bearing wear and replace if required. If not just give the whole lot a good clean and a liberal dose of grease.

Mike

[Miztaziggy]

If you're going to take the exhaust off to check that bearing, then be careful with the studs, my exhaust is off at the moment and I have had a nightmare trying to get the sheared studs out.

[BarryH]

I reckon I could get the linkages off without removing the exhaust. In saying that I took it off the other day for its spring clean. Not hard, just a mare to get it all gas tight again. There isn't any major corrosion around the area. It won't do any harm to strip them down and have a look to see what they're like. The grease, or whats left of it, is potentially eleven years old now.

[AMCQ46]

If you're going to take the exhaust off to check that bearing, then be careful with the studs, my exhaust is off at the moment and I have had a nightmare trying to get the sheared studs out.

You only need to take the cans & link pipes off, then you and get at everything you need, so no risk of snapping off the studs on the cyl head. Before I got an ABBA stand, I put axlestands under the footrest plates where the exhaust link pipe is bolted on. then it is nice and stable

[Miztaziggy]

Oh, maybe we are talking about different bearings then

I meant the one at the bottom of the shock that kind of points backwards toward the back wheel....I thought that one was next to the main exhaust pipe and well before the end can link pipes.

[tony.mon]

With it propped up safely and securely, you can take off the whole shock and linkages by undoing the bolts that go through the engine block and footrest mounting blocks.
Them you can undo everything on the workbench.

The bolt's the problem, if fitted with the bolt head aimed at the downpipes it won't pull out with the downpipes in place.
Fit it the other way round.

[Wicky]

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 788#p94788

[sirch345]

Barry,
If you've not already seen this then have a read:-
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=11809

Chris.

[AMCQ46]

Oh, maybe we are talking about different bearings then

I meant the one at the bottom of the shock that kind of points backwards toward the back wheel....I thought that one was next to the main exhaust pipe and well before the end can link pipes.

the bolt on the bottom of the shock is a bit of a problem, as it looks like there is not enough clearance to the exhaust headers, but I just slackened the clamp form the rear down pipe to the collector [not the cyl head fixings which might be seized], and used a big bar to bend things out of the way till I got the bolt out. Then when you put it back together, fit the bolt from the other side and you never have the same problem again.

I grew up on a farm, we always used the brute force solution rather than take more bits off.

[BarryH]

Got home early'ish tonight so started to strip out the linkages. The bearings in the large dogbone are fine. Still had factory grease in there. Just a strip clean and relube. The bearings in the smaller linkage need replacing. One of the needle rollers has collapsed. The other is dry but still moves. The spacer is pitted on one side. I'll order up the parts and replace it all. Its not worth messing around trying to save the un-savable!
Gutted really. Was hoping it would just be a clean and relube job. Its such a nice evening, Fish and Chips in London on Sea would have been on the cards.

[Twinpotter]

Then when you put it back together, fit the bolt from the other side and you never have the same problem again.

Wish I'd done that. Good shout.

I grew up on a farm, we always used the brute force solution rather than take more bits off.

Brains too,eh?

Gutted really. Was hoping it would just be a clean and relube job. Its such a nice evening, Fish and Chips in London on Sea would have been on the cards.

Just knowing they're all nice and clean on the ride back from the chippie - priceless.

[BarryH]

Well I did it. In the end I got all the bits and pieces from my local Honda Stealer. Silvers were the same price plus postage. Nothing too traumatic. Stripped it all out, gave the linkages to a mate who works in a metal coatings place. They came back all spangly and put it all back together. Seems to ride ok.
Talking to the spanner monkies at the dealers, I asked what the torque settings were for the linkage bolts. 44Nm seems a bit low. Is that right?