New VTR has landed

[vtryorks]

Hey guys,

Well I finally became an owner. Have to admit, I had hoped for slightly better condition than it turned out to be, but hopefully its not a total waste of time. I cant understand people who dont rinse down after bad weather. Seems to be a lot of corrosion so not really sure where to start! I'm hoping its recoverable. I do have a better exhaust header pipe and some new (used) carbs.

http://imageshack.us/g/43/imag0395f.jpg/

I guess I'll be posting in the Workshop section a fair bit..!

I do have a couple of questions if anyone can help. It seems to need a long time on the choke in order to tick over. What is normal idle speed/warm temp for these? I'm still waiting on my Haynes manual. I tried running it at 57 degrees and it idles at around 800 but if I try to blip the throttle it cuts out. It starts OK providing I use choke from cold.

It was stood for a year so I think its probably the carbs.

At least it gives me something to work on!

[tony.mon]

That's recoverable, but will need a couple of weekends and a squirt of wd40....

I'd be tempted to ride it for the summer and do a proper rebuild over the winter, unless you need it for daily commutes.

Tickover is best set at about 1350-1400, seems high but it almost cures the odd airbox cough, and stop it cutting out when cool.

Also helps it not to lock up quite as much going into corners if you go down too many gears.

[vtryorks]

Thanks tony. You think I should strip it down fully and have it shot blasted/similar?

I've never done any kind of mechanical work at all...I'm going in blind, well, I have this site and the haynes manual which should arrive later this week.

[Ilson Lad]

As said, its a few weekends work but you will get it sorted The front of the motor on mine also needs a bit of tlc and I believe abundant lashings of wd40 help a lot to remove the crud.Good luck but at least you have yer storm now

[tony.mon]

, I have this site and the haynes manual which should arrive later this week.

Tear out the pages telling you how to set the valve timing, and replace it with the advice in the workshop sticky section- Haynes is unreliable.

[Arfur_Guiness]

Happy new bike there Yorks!

Is this the one from the Isle of Wight that you originally looked at?
Corrosion probably a problem as it's in the Channel and surrounded by salt water.....

Everything is fixable - especially with the help of the good guys on this forum.
Good luck but don't rely on the Haynes book of lies.....

[Miztaziggy]

Ive replied to your pm mate, but that was before I read this thread.

Personally, I still think you have a cheap bike there, and there doesnt look to be anything a good clean wont fix.

Mine wasnt far off like that when I got it. I spent 5 week nights and a weekend stripping, cleaning and putting back together. I didnt get it perfect, but improved it a lot.

From what I can see on yours, the worst bits to get clean are the hoses (metal end bits), chrome oil pipes and engine casings. I bought some degreaser and sprayed it on for a couple of days while I stripped and cleaned other bits. Then I used a brush to clean it best I could and it came up quite well.

If you're going to change the header pipes, be careful of those nuts on the front cylinder. They will probably shear the studs as you loosen them. You might get lucky and be able to remove the studs easily like one of mine, or they might be a bitch like the other one of mine was. If you give me a shout when you plan on doing it, ill pop over with the dremmel and other tools I used to extract mine. You will need to order new studs from ebay, but they only cost like £3 or £4 I think so not too bad.

The sub frame looks bad, but is easily stripped, sanded and repainted. I did mine with silver hammerite and it was an almost perfect match to the original. I think I still have half a tin which you can have if you need. I also sanded and did my front forks with it as they were pitted too.

Your swingarm, foot pegs and wheels look better condition than mine were, so hopefully not too much work there.

[AMCQ46]

So the waiting is over, now you can get riding

As for the condition, its not to bad, but Look on it as a good excuse to get to know the bike. Make sure you don't just sort the cosmetics, when you have the bodywork off you will obviously sort the CCT (do the stopper mod), but also get the rear linkage apart and grease the needle bearings. New oils and springs in the forks, spacer under the rear shock top mount and get riding.

[vtryorks]

I really do love this forum.

I'll post progress pics of the work, I have a cunning plan!

[Kev L]

When is the next part of your test process? Bike looks good with the SP forks & wheels. Good luck with the clean up.

[vtryorks]

I have one quick question, which track stand is most suitable for the Firestorm? Cant really find any info.

[AMCQ46]

? Bike looks good with the SP forks & wheels. Good luck with the clean up.

Didn't spot the fork conversion...that and the better brakes will make a big improvement. Makes it more of a bargain. Not sure why there is no stickers on the tank though

On the stand, you just need any paddock stand with old fashioned cups that go under the swing arm. Or if you feel flush an ABBA stand is the rolls royce

[vtryorks]

Not sure why there is no stickers on the tank though

Its had a respray and there was a tank bag fitted. I think its been on its side once, but only evidence is on frame protectors and a tiny bit on wing mirror. Having said that, the scrapes go the wrong way so I'm not sure. It doesnt look at all serious though. No recorded damage on HPI at least.

[agentpineapple]

hi mate
how much did it cost?
and it looks like one of the bikes i sent you an ebay link too?
if it was that bike, then the fella that owned it had spent a fair few quid on it. good luck with it mate, all it needs is a bit of tlc.........

[vtryorks]

how much did it cost?
and it looks like one of the bikes i sent you an ebay link too?

Shade over 1600 and indeed...it is that bike

TLC it shall receive!