Loctite and the rear sprocket/carrier...

[vtryorks]

Stripping down for a change of chain and sprockets, the previous owner has put loctite on everything which is causing me one or two issues but nothing terminal yet.

Just wanted to check, is it a smart thing to do to use loctite on the rear sprocket bolts (5 of them). I should say that the type used was red but I am not sure if this helps identify the breakaway torque or not. Either way, its seized one of the nuts on to the bolts which is a pain in the butt. I have to be honest, I'm not sure why there are seperate threaded bolts and then nuts, I cant see the reasoning behind that at all. Am I supposed to screw those in by hand then apply the nut? I havent looked at it in too much detail yet, but just seems weird. I hope I'm describing it well enough.

Also, from research it seems the bolts to the threaded rods on the carrier need to be torqued to 108nm. Surely this cannot be right...can it?

Any input would be appreciated.

PS. Would you believe it, I thought the sprocket carrier was steel until I applied some paraffin and elbow grease. Whaddya know, its nice and shiny aluminium under there!

[tattoo]

some put loctite on as extra security but as you've found out it's a bitch to get the nuts off when it's time to change sprockets again...if you have the threaded bolt out with the nut still attached just warm it to melt the threadloc then clean them all with a wire brush.

i've never had the need to use either threadloc or a torque wrench on the sprocket nuts,i do them up with a ratchet then put the carrier back into the wheel,grip between the knees and tighten again...i've never had one come loose on me.

[tinysmall]

Yup, you're supposed to use red loctite on them. Red is permanent and needs heat to break the seal. Use a heat gun or something then get the breaker bar out. If it says 108 nm then go with that but make sure you've read it right first. I did it with an engine bolt. Did it when I was tired and thought it said 67nm when it was actually 37 or something. Resulted in a threaded engine mount :-/


Sent from my brain using my hands with that Tapatalk thingemybob.

[gilson]

I locktight every single bolt with medium strength stuff. Love it.

[sirch345]

Also, from research it seems the bolts to the threaded rods on the carrier need to be torqued to 108nm. Surely this cannot be right...can it?

Any input would be appreciated.

I questioned this too, but 108nm does seem correct so that is what mine are tightened to (original type Honda nuts )without any problems.

The easiest way to do this I found is to tighten the nuts back up with the new sprocket fitted (if you're fitting a new one) as tight as you can before refitting the wheel, then re-fit the wheel to the bike, place a piece of timber (2 X 1 or similar)through the wheel under the swingarm and allow one of the wheel spokes to rest up against the timber, you can then use the torque wrench. You will need to move the wheel around to access all of the sprocket nuts, but this way is a lot easier than trying to use the rear brake to lock the back wheel. I have original type 3 spoke wheels on my bike, I'm not so sure I'd recommend this method if someone has thinner 6 spoke wheels fitted, if anyone does try it with 6 spoke wheel do so at your own risk.

Using the same method for undoing them (just slacken the sprocket nuts off) before removing the wheel makes life easier too, but to do this the timber needs to be on top of the swingarm. You will need to remove your hugger if your bike has one fitted to do this, also take care of the rear brake hose, you don't want to squash it with the timber.

Chris.

[vtryorks]

Cheers guys.

I do have 6 spokers Chris so I'll have to figure out an alternative.

What I'm not sure of, is why the threaded rods came out of the carrier. Is this normal? I have 4 of them still stuck in the carrier and one which had the nut bonded so tightly, it forced the rod out. I didnt use too much force to do this I should say.

Heres a pic
.

You can see that one of the threaded rods (bolts) is missing. Hope I didnt break something. Someone mentioned a helicoil which I admit gave me the willies....

How does loctite cope with grease/how do you apply both, they seem counter intuitive. Also I was thinking of using Copaslip for some of this stuff as its steel into alu....

So many questions, sorry for that.

[tattoo]

i've just looked at all my sprocket nuts out of curiousity and found i'd swapped the original nuts for locking ones,not nyloks but the ones with the steel locking ring built in....sorry for my earlier post vtryorks

[vtryorks]

tattoo mate, what are you sorry for? Did I miss something?

I'll get out the blow torch, always looking for an excuse to use it!

lol

[sirch345]

Cheers guys.

I do have 6 spokers Chris so I'll have to figure out an alternative.

What I'm not sure of, is why the threaded rods came out of the carrier. Is this normal? I have 4 of them still stuck in the carrier and one which had the nut bonded so tightly, it forced the rod out. I didnt use too much force to do this I should say.

Heres a pic
.

You can see that one of the threaded rods (bolts) is missing. Hope I didnt break something. Someone mentioned a helicoil which I admit gave me the willies....

How does loctite cope with grease/how do you apply both, they seem counter intuitive. Also I was thinking of using Copaslip for some of this stuff as its steel into alu....

So many questions, sorry for that.

I've just had a look here http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID/26 ... REAR_WHEEL and you can see number 23 is a stud. So providing the threads are good and original then you should be able to just screw it back into the carrier. The fact that someone used thread lock on the nut most likely meant it was easier for the stud to undo rather than the nut.

Try putting two nuts on the threaded stud end if there's enough thread there, and locking them together by tightening them against each other. Place the two locked nuts on the stud in a vice, then try undoing the stuborn nut.

Loctite and grease don't mix, you can't use both together.

Chris.

[vtryorks]

Thanks mate.

That explains why one stud came out and the others did not. I'm going to get some medium grade loctite for reassembly, I saw in another post that this is a good idea, because the V Twins vibrate more than an IL4?

Good idea about the two nuts...hadnt thought of that but was smart enough not to grip the bolt so tightly as to damage the threads.

[tony.mon]

Although vee twins vibrate more in some ways, at the rear wheel it won't be any different to any other bike.

So loctite the studs in with high grade loctite, and the nuts on with low or medium grade.
That way, the nuts will come loose before the studs.