Heated grips only on full at 80mph or more!!

[seb421]

issue with heated grips

basically I cant have them on over 25% unless I'm doing around 80mph in 6th gear or the equivalent rev's in another gear, which is a bit uneconomical.

About4 months ago the original Regulator/Rectifier (2000 model failed) replaced it asap with the revised Honda model with the heat sink built in.

I fitted the Grips a few weeks ago but was a bit miffed to find out i can only get 75% - 100% on for prolonged periods unless I'm speeding, sure its not a valid excuse in court either!


Question, if i fit a RR from the Yamaha will it allow me to use them at a lower speed / rev band?

[benny hedges]

sounds like its defo a issue with the regulator m8....
unless your batery is totally fkt?

i prefer the newer honda r/r meself cos they just plug in... not had any problems with mine anyway

[seb421]

Batt was a new YUSA ? one about 18month / 24moth ago, bikes used about 45 miles a day down the motorway and put on an optimate every other weekend or so

Reg was a band new Honda OEM one (new style) do think it could faulty should i be able to use them at lower revs

when the batt has had a charge on the optimate i can use them for like 20 miles on full down the motorway at 70, but for the trip home this will be a problem unless im doing 80

[Wicky]

Bung a multimeter across the battery at about 3,5000rpm and see what your getting - check the manual for what the charging specs are. Clean and protect all your connections from accumulated winter corrosion. From the timescale of events it is also possible your old R/R could have damaged your slightly less newer battery, hence why you need to test it.

[seb421]

Cheers for the info ill have to wait till the new engines up but sure they will have one at work.

[pariah]

Could it no simply be the grips controler gone wrong .

[Phimosis]

Is it the new Oxford ones? I had a R/R failure and the grips wont come on unless there is 12v available, the fact you keep it on an optimizer means there is just enough juice to start it, but id reckon on the battery is donalded. check voltage as said before Im betting on 11.5v or similar.........and Id like to add that possibly your R/R is again faulty as it comes on 100% when speeding which means its getting a good supply...those damned pesky R/R problems...best way to sort is new battery and R/R if the voltage isnt 13.8 or so when measuring.

[AMCQ46]

Is it the new Oxford ones? I had a R/R failure and the grips wont come on unless there is 12v available, the .

that sounds like the answer right there.......your grips are now acting as a Volt meter warning you of under charging

[seb421]

New oxford sports model, new few month old new style RR

Is it posible they can develop a problem so soon?

Just got a new batt in the blade so will try swap it over if possible when the replacement engine is in the storm and see if it makes a diffrence

Thanks

[Phimosis]

Yep deffo R/R, +/- Knackered battery, the Reg WILL take your battery out, happened to me twice, although dont throw the battery away, I put mine through 20 2 day runs through my optimate and eventually brought them back to life showing a solid green after many goes, it seems the de sulphation thing does work with the optimate, anyway I have 3 spare batteries now lol anyway grab yer 100 squid and arm yourself with new items, the retail therapy outweighs the loss of the 100 squidleys....

[Phimosis]

oh and I have a working original r/r if your strapped for cash will send for free, it is tested (by me) and puts out 13.9v I wouldnt trust it for too long but it is fine now and plugs right in, pm me with address if you want it.

[Wicky]

The grips I believe are working as intended - they have a cut out feature, as mentioned, if the battery drop below 12v in case you leave them switched on when the bike is switched off (better still fit a relay switch into the bikes electrical circuit so they can only work when the ignition is on). I fitted a pair of those Oxford grips over the summer onto a mates Suzi Bandit (without a relay) and had to send them back for the opposite reason as they wouldn't switch off from max!

Anyhow you just need to test your battery and the charging behaviour of the R/R to narrow down what is precisely wrong as indicated by the apparent symptoms your grips are giving you.

Have you any other electrical mods, lights, alarms that would load/drain the battery. And best not ride unless you have recovery insurance/or problem is fixed, as hurtling about at 80 mph to keep charged up doesn't seem conducive to reliability in the short term/long term

New oxford sports model, new few month old new style RR

Is it posible they can develop a problem so soon?

Just got a new batt in the blade so will try swap it over if possible when the replacement engine is in the storm and see if it makes a diffrence

Thanks

[AMCQ46]

also need to check the quality of teh connection where you tapped into to get the power feed to teh heated grips. if that is poor, then you will drop voltage over the resistance resulting in less than 12V at the grip controller.

those crap halfords red briging links need to be avoided

[seb421]

also need to check the quality of teh connection where you tapped into to get the power feed to teh heated grips. if that is poor, then you will drop voltage over the resistance resulting in less than 12V at the grip controller.

those crap halfords red briging links need to be avoided

Direct to the batt with the supplied Oxford wires, all terminals are clean

only other electrical mods are a 12volt socket (used when charging the phone) and a Led sidelight bulb as opposed to the standard, and same type smd led bulbs in the clocks, did use a led strip light also for a while but took it out.

hope it is just a wombles batt.

[tony.mon]

There's a cheap fix.....

Luckily, now that the big ends have gone, you won't be getting cold hands.

Rebuild it S L O W L Y and then it'll be warm enough weather to not need them.

Did that help?

Ah