RAM AIR on the cheap??

[seb421]

ive been thinking about this for a little while

would it be at all possible to use this?

two of these (or similar better ones)



remove the air box completely

stick these at the front of the bike where they are going to be fed with cold air and for the other ends to be placed direct over the intake trumpets / stacks (one for each carb obviously)

Would this work at all?

[Snoogle]

I would have thought it might cause some problems...see Tonys thread regarding the MWR filters...they are replacement panel filters with a "cap" which should allow you to remove the airbox lid. However, I believe they are running into problems with the development of this system on the Storm.

Then again you could be the pioneer of this idea and get it to run giving people other options?!

[seb421]

I would have thought it might cause some problems...see Tonys thread regarding the MWR filters...they are replacement panel filters with a "cap" which should allow you to remove the airbox lid. However, I believe they are running into problems with the development of this system on the Storm.

Then again you could be the pioneer of this idea and get it to run giving people other options?!

i think it might work mate as the trumpets will be fed direct from the tubes that will be in the incoming air stream

i didn't have much hope for that mwr stuff, removing the lid and just having a panel there would cause all sorts of issues with air flow over it and trying to get air to it and into properly with out a chamber

when i have some more money spare i think i shall give those ram air tubes ago, they have a filter built into the open end too, don't fancy running it down a public road with out one

might have to figure out a nice mount point for them as it will look ugly

[KarlosVTR]

you may need to block part of the air jets up to at least to get it to run

[seb421]

has tony had a mooch yet? do you think its doable mate?

[tony.mon]

Not hopeful, honestly.
People have tried K+N cone-type filters, without much success, and these will have a similar airflow performance, I would have thought.
And some of the jets, as mentioned, are on the part of the carb face outside the stack trumpet, so don't know how they'll affect things.

Why not have a go?
If not successful, you could ebay them back out to the car boys.

But another idea might be to try to fit two of these so that they feed into the snorkel intakes, rather than directly onto the stacks themselves.
That isn't too difficult; if you use the plastic heat shield as a base panel, seal it up around the front underside of the airbox, fabricate a top lid for that and feed the flexible hoses in through the triangular gaps in the frame.
The triangular gap in the frame on the LH side is clear, once you've done the stick coil mod, as you can then remove the front coil, but you have to work around the throttle cables on the RH side. They're not restrictive, though, just difficult to achieve a good seal round them.

[KarlosVTR]

even with it feeding the snorkel it will be difficult. you wouldnt have any idea where the turbulent air is flowing. if you have it in the throat of the snorkel you are creating a restriction to normal running.

you could consider chopping the sides of the air box open and having the ram air tubes fit these. but again with the ram air effecting the pressure of the air box, i bet there would be more air forced out of the snorkel than what the engine can gulp in. then you have to work out how to increase fuel rate at the given pressurisation of the airbox.

ram air only really works properly on fuel injected bikes that have a MAP sensor which coupled with the ecu can tell it how much fuel it needs to deliver.

also if thinking of blocking up the snorkel and running the two air pipes directly in to the air box, have this thought.

try dragging a massive volume of air through two huge pipes with two (relatively) small pistons.

the best thing you can do to improve performance with those holes is block the buggers up to make it more streamlined. ultimately though it will run hotter as how they stand at the minute only carry hot air away

[seb421]

What if you was to block the snorkle

Then get two cold air feedpipes, enter two hoses through the bottom of the air box left and right sides where ever possible, into the airbox at the bottom, seal around them with silicone etc, then feed them up wards cut through the plastic in the filter then seal around that with silicone as well so that it was force feeding air above the filter hitting the roof of the airbox and getting pushed back down through the air filter and drawn in by the carbs?

would that work any better, i know it would reduce air box internal volume but would it compensate for being able to feed more direct cool air into it?

[tony.mon]

What if you was to block the snorkle

Then get two cold air feedpipes, enter two hoses through the bottom of the air box left and right sides where ever possible, into the airbox at the bottom, seal around them with silicone etc, then feed them up wards cut through the plastic in the filter then seal around that with silicone as well so that it was force feeding air above the filter hitting the roof of the airbox and getting pushed back down through the air filter and drawn in by the carbs?

would that work any better, i know it would reduce air box internal volume but would it compensate for being able to feed more direct cool air into it?

It might, try it and see.
There's no guarantees with this sort of experimentation; you just gotta have a go.
If the seat of the pants test feels ok, and it doesn't cut out, pop and bang, feel starved of fuel, feel slower, or run lumpy, then stick it on a dyno to see what difference it makes with readjustment to the fuelling.

But ideally have a baseline run carried out first, or have a spare airbox to swap over.


Not sure why feeding the pipes in form underneath and routing through the box is a better solution than routing in through the snorkel?

[YETI]

if you lot really want ram-air i could get
my moriwaki system re made in fibreglass .
not a clue what this would cost but i would
be happy to find out if there were enough
interest
youll know the system works and fits , then
itll just be a case of fettlin all the other
associated parts

regards
YETI..

[tony.mon]

if you lot really want ram-air i could get
my moriwaki system re made in fibreglass .
not a clue what this would cost but i would
be happy to find out if there were enough
interest
youll know the system works and fits , then
itll just be a case of fettlin all the other
associated parts

regards
YETI..

Need to chop bits off the tank, though, and lose range.

[seb421]

Yeh that would be the only down fall, a substantial loss i tank rage would be a kick in the balls

How hard is it to modify the tank? i have a few spare tanks now lieing around unless i binned the teal one not sure might just have the one spare

[YETI]

A decent welder will do the job no problem £ ?
and the loss in tank range isnt that bad , i had
it done to my spare tank a while back ? an old harris 24ltr ally jobbie .
but i really dont think you can do this on the cheap imho,
but im happy to assist if required

YETI..

[agentpineapple]

wouldn't it be better to fill in the snorkel hole and then redrill holes for the ram air, i have a spare airbox that i might tinker with. is there room for holes in the top front of the airbox lid?
i wish i had some spare money knocking around because i would be taking yeti up on his offer, but is it worth going down the ram air route with a standard engine, surely you'd get more benefit if the engine was a stage 1 jobbie......

[KarlosVTR]

an engine at stage 1 can be anything you like

to make it work effectively the carbs need to be worked to breathe out of the snorkle and the ram air tubes. that means the air box has to see positive and negative pressure.

it wont be cheap. if you try it cheap you will be wasting your time