Starter Probs

Image · Post by **Image** » Fri Jul 27, 2012 3:48 pm

Bike began misbaving, starting sluggish etc and sometimes needing jump leads. This morning it wouldn't even start on jump leads from car. It started with a bump start down the street but when turned off, it wouldn't start again. Had a new rectifier about 6 months ago. Is it likely to be the starter motor?

I'm assuming it's not alternator as surely it would have started on jump leads if that was the case. Am I right?

Wicky · Post by **Wicky** » Fri Jul 27, 2012 4:00 pm

First thing to check are the specs to see where your at, from the downloadable Honda Superhawk PDF service manual, page 283, Chap 16. Battery/Charging system

SPECIFICATIONS
ITEM SPECIFICATIONS
Battery Capacity - 12 V-10AH
Current leakaQe - 0.1 mAmax.
Voltage Fully charged - 13.0-13.2V
(68 Â°F/20 Â°C) Needs charging - Below 12.3 V
Charging current Normal - 1.2A x 5-10h, Quick 5.0 A x 1.0 h
Alternator Capacity 0.280 kW
Chargingcoil resistance (68 Â°F/20 Â°C) 0.2-0.5 Q
Regulator/rectifier regulated voltage 13.5-15.5 V/5,000 min-1 (rpm)

Had a new rectifier about 6 months ago

What R/R did you fit? new or second-hand? updated Honda one? Yamaha? (S/N? - mosfet or non-mosfet?)

Have you checked the starter lead where it bolts on to the starter under the rubber hood for corrosion?

Check for corrosion on connectors and earths , clean and protect with leccy spary cleaner and protector.

Image · Post by **Image** » Fri Jul 27, 2012 4:09 pm

Wow, them specs are a bit out of my league.
Rectifier was a new stock one according to the bike garage that fitted it.

Ref the starter motor bolt, I've checked it for loosness but not for corrosion.

Wicky · Post by **Wicky** » Fri Jul 27, 2012 4:19 pm

If you haven't got a multimeter to test various components, and after cleaning up any possible corroded connections and tightening any loose connections, then it might be best to run it back to the shop that fitted the R/R* (even the upgraded R/R isn't infallible) to look it over.

*What serial no. is on it? as there are cheapo chinese versions galore on fleabay that have the potential life expectancy of a gnat.

Image · Post by **Image** » Fri Jul 27, 2012 5:50 pm

Well, the starter motor terminal lead connection certainly was corroded. So much so the nut wouldn't unturn and the whole bolt turned. After much bashing and sawing etc the nut and bolt is still there but there's a lot of exposed metal so I attached the lead to it with a monkey-spanner and still no starting. Maybe I 'll have to take it to the garage but there'll be a long waiting list at this time of year. Would prefr to do it myself. Maybe I should just replace the starter motor then if that doesn't work replace the rectifier.

Image · Post by **Image** » Fri Jul 27, 2012 6:21 pm

Or the other way round, new rectifier then if that doesn't work starter motor? Any views which?

scott02464 · Post by **scott02464** » Fri Jul 27, 2012 6:35 pm

I have a spare working (un finned ) R/R you can try if you like, then you can plug that in first to 'eliminate' yours being knackered? It'll be cheaper than buying a new starter? As long as your batt hasn't been fried and is still working.

Scott

Image · Post by **Image** » Fri Jul 27, 2012 6:50 pm

Yeah, that would be well handy.
Don't think the battery should be fried as it's only a few months old plus if it were the battery it would have worked off the jump leads wouldn't it as it would have been running from the car battery?

scott02464 · Post by **scott02464** » Fri Jul 27, 2012 6:57 pm

No probs. if you PM me your address I'll post it off to you!

It worked as it should when I took it off, only took it off to swap it for a finned one ;-)

Wicky · Post by **Wicky** » Fri Jul 27, 2012 9:45 pm

Could well be the starter is f*ucked - esp if water has gotten inside past the seals around the bolt. get a second-hand one - IIRC Blacbkird ones are more common and thus cheaper. Remember every time you wash it to bung a dab of grease/vaseline under the rubber hood to keep corrosion at bay.

Image wrote:Well, the starter motor terminal lead connection certainly was corroded. So much so the nut wouldn't unturn and the whole bolt turned. After much bashing and sawing etc the nut and bolt is still there but there's a lot of exposed metal so I attached the lead to it with a monkey-spanner and still no starting. Maybe I 'll have to take it to the garage but there'll be a long waiting list at this time of year. Would prefr to do it myself. Maybe I should just replace the starter motor then if that doesn't work replace the rectifier.

tony.mon · Post by **tony.mon** » Fri Jul 27, 2012 9:59 pm

Before you do anything else check the 30 amp fuse in the starter solenoid under the tail plastics on the LH side.
It's under a rubber boot in the block where the lead goes in.

If you've cut the lead and sawed through the bolt, tried to reconnect the lead and are not getting a huge fat spark when you touch the lead onto the bolt with the starter button pressed, there's no current flowing.

The sawed through bolt is meant to have some isolating washers on it so that it doesn't touch the body of the starter; if you have disturbed those; the fuse will go as soon as you touch the starter button.

Image · Post by **Image** » Sat Jul 28, 2012 4:03 am

Well, the starter motor terminals were such a rusty mess and an even bigger mess now I've hacked at them that I'll have to replace the starter motor anyway so I'll start there but I'll also check the rectifier as well. Sounds like they're the most likely villains.

VTR1000.ORG

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