Are manual cam chain tensioners worth it?

[Alek]

Hi All,

Haven't posted in a while.. Engine died a few months ago due to not adjusting the camchain tension properly.. Ended up buying a new engine here in Spain (was really lucky to find a 16k mile one).. It's got a few issues which I will ask in another thread, but I just wanted to ask this first:

What are manual cam chain tensioners main benefit? I mean, will it make my VTR less likely to die from the dreaded loose/broken camchain, or are these for some performance precision type tweaking? All I really want is to make the bike a bit more reliable... Really scared of the engine going again.

Can someone explain these to me a bit please? I searched a bit but obviously being a noob...

Looking at something like these by the way: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Manual-Cam- ... 5ae61c3bce

Thanks very much!

Alek.

[Wicky]

Wouldn't call you a 'noob' as you've experienced the imploding consequences of a OEM Honda CCT tensioner failing to tension the camchain which jumps with the valves meeting pistons.

due to not adjusting the camchain tension properly..

The standard CCTs are auto adjusting

die from the dreaded loose/broken cam-chain

Never heard of a broken cam chain but as described earlier when the tensioner fails the chain can jump loose altering the timing with expensive and inconvenient consequences. Basically Honda have used a design of CCT that when it fails on a IL4 will simply rattle when it fails, while in the storm inherent to the V2 nature of the beast it lets go causing more damage without warning - from low milages i.e 7K all the way to high milages which can display no problem.

The APE manual CCTs are precisely the type what you require to stop the likelihood reoccurring again. You can choose between different varieties described here, APE, Kreiger and Bazza - also Rider on a Storm >

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 16&t=22720

How to fit them DIY>

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=8326

[darkember]

Are manual cam chain tensioners worth it?

Taking in what Wicky has just written. In answer to your question above. Yes they are.

[AMCQ46]

Manual CCTs are not a performance mod, this is to fix a weakness in the base product design..........or fit the stopper to the standard Honda ones..............but dont risk leaving them as standard even if they are new.

[VTRDark]

Engine died a few months ago due to not adjusting the camchain tension properly

Not sure if your referring to manuals not being adjusted correctly here or if your talking about the Honda auto's failing.

Manual cam tensioners need to be fitted correctly and the tension set to the precise measurement otherwise these can cause damage either by being overtightened and increasing wear and tear on bearing's and engine components or if they are set too loose can jump the cam teeth which could be the same/equivalent damage as the Original Honda ones.

So if fitting manual cam tensioners make sure they are fitted and adjusted correctly. Otherwise do the stopper mod on the original auto ones so when/if they fail they don't cause any damage.

Either way do not leave the Original Honda CCT's as they are out of the factory.

(:-})

[Alek]

Thanks for the replies peeps!

Sorry, yeah.. I guess the front tensioner (still original on both) wasn't tight enough and the valves munched themselves on the piston a bit.. In spain it's hard enough getting work/parts like that done so feel lucky I found a 16k engine nearby for 400 quid... The new engine, although lower mileage, doesn't seem as fast, is quite "poppy" (from the rear cylinder, it seems - noticed some fire coming out of rear carb), sounds a bit like a supermotard, and there is already a worrying cam-rattle type noise coming from the top end which is getting marginally worse since i started riding it again about 5 weeks ago..

It just went back to the garage now. I can do some things myself but I thought I should balance the carbs too, and they have a carb balance kit on-hand. I have asked them to check it over a bit more and have mentioned that I will probably buy the manual cam chain tensioners, although to be honest, you guys haven't made it easy to decide..

I think, given that I'm not equipped to make my own modifications on any bolts etc, and I'm not sure whether to trust mechanics around here, the stopper mod is probably not the way to go... so I'll be alright with the manual tensioners I guess, that's precisely what I'm looking for - prevention of munching the engine again... The only thing that I need to decide now is whick make of tensioners I should get, and how hard and how often adjusting them will be. Will I be able to figure it out? Will at least the local mechanics know what this is all about?

(I rebuilt a few RD350LCs in my time.. All this valve stuff.. it's still a bit new for me.. I'm still trying to get to grips with a YPVS power valve.).

Thanks again for your time.

[Wicky]

Will at least the local mechanics know what this is all about?

Probably not. Use get them to use the instructions I linked to earlier, as the Haynes manual instructions will just as easily screw your new engine or at least turn it butt about face by 180 degrees..

While you're in their doing the CCTs you can fit a vacuum take off & tube on the front pot for carb balancing - See the workshop knowledgebase sub forum and have a good look around for what needs to be done, as it's an oft covered procedure and most, if not all of your questions will have previously been covered.

As for lackof umph with the Spanish lump - ! Is the engine possibly restricted/carbs restricted to a lower peak horsepower?

[VTRDark]

Sorry, yeah.. I guess the front tensioner (still original on both) wasn't tight enough

Originals are non adjustable. The spring fails inside them which slackens the cam chain to the point of causing the valves to go crashing.

to be honest, you guys haven't made it easy to decide..

It's a simple decision of either doing the stopper mod or fitting manual tensioners.

With the stopper mod if/when the spring fails the stopper stops the chain slackening to the point of where the valves will cause damage. Manuals will only need slight adjustment roughly about every 30,000 miles.

(:-})

[Boubepo]

Whereabouts are you in Spain Alek?