Your opinions on this kevlar clutch set?

[Image]

What's your opinions on this kevlar clutch set? Would they fit a storm? Would it be an improvement and if so would it be a nooticable improvement?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220994639108? ... 1438.l2649

[Wicky]

What's your opinions on this kevlar clutch set? Would they fit a storm? Would it be an improvement and if so would it be a nooticable improvement?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220994639108? ... 1438.l2649

Would they fit a storm?

"Honda 2007 VTR1000 F6 Firestorm" I'd check with them that its for the VTR1000F '97–'05 not the SP '00–'06

Would it be an improvement and if so would it be a nooticable improvement?

"These clutch kits are ideal for heavy sports bikes, faster riders and basic race use. The advantages are a longer clutch life and increased heat resistance, although the clutch can have a slightly more aggressive/faster take up than OE clutches."

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=24262

[cheekykev]

If it's not broke don't fix it

[Image]

Hmm, but it is broke 'ish'. My clutch is still slipping at fast take offs. I thought it might be because I used improper car oil in the bike (doh!) but it's had the proper recommended oil in it now for over a month and whilst it is better, it's still slipping. I was pondering whether to just bang in a new clutch and have done with it and while at it use an upgraded clutch.

[VTRDark]

Have you tried bleeding the clutch line to see if that solves it first.

(:-})

[Image]

Thanks Cybercarl. I'll try that. Sounds cheaper than a new clutch
How technical a job is that? I've never done it on a storm.

[cheekykev]

Have you checked with Hunts to see what clutch you should put in, they are quite helpful, if it's slipping you might need new friction plates, again try Hunts sometimes their prices are fairly good considering they are genuine Honda parts.
Don't want to question your research, but are you sure you've got the correct oil in ?
Honda now recommend 10/30 semi synthetic for their bikes unless they’re being used for racing

[thumperslaw]

Take it apart first and look at the plates and see if there is any "bluing" on the steels

After that i would get some fine wet and dry to see if you can rough the steel plates up abit
That should help

[Image]

Yep, 10-30 semi is what I've got in there.
How much of a job is it to bleed the pipe and brush up the plates. I'd like to know what I'm embarking on before I open her up. I assume I'll have to drain all the oil off first.
What tools are required to open the clutch up?
Do the plates slide out easily?
How easy does the clutch pipe come off for bleeding and how do I ensure air doesn't get in or doesn't it matter?

[VTRDark]

To bleed the clutch it is the same principle as the brakes. But basically you have the bleed nipple on the clutch slave cylinder. It's probably best to get a bit of clear tube that will fit over the nipple so you can see any air bubbles and an old jar to catch the old fluid coming through the tube. Fill the clutch reservoir loosen the nipple slightly to allow flow, then squeeze the clutch lever in, before releasing the lever tighten the nipple back up so your not sucking air back up into the system, release the lever, loosen nipple, squeeze lever, tighten nipple, release lever, Check fluid level and top up you will probably only get a couple of squeezes on the lever before it needs topping up and repeat the process until you see no more air bubbles in the tube. It's easier with two people, one person to squeeze the lever and top up while the other operates the nipple. or get a break/clutch bleeding kit which makes the whole process simpler And don't spill any fluid on your paintwork, if you do, wash it off as soon as poss with water.

As far as changing/checking the clutch plates, well there's more involved than bleeding and you will need a replacement clutch cover gasket. Have a read through the topic wicky posted above as this will give you more of an idea of what's involved.

(:-})

[Rob]

As Carl said, but if you start to see no bubbles but the fuid is still a different colour (usually darker) to what you're putting in then keep going until the 'new' fluid comes out, Might as well change the fluid at the same time.

It's not recommended to store brake fluid as it's hygroscopic (absorbs water) so you may as well use it all. Change the brake fluid at the same time

*Edit - Haven't had the clutch cover off yet as I'm waiting for a gasket. I don't know, but I doubt much, if any oil would come out. The oil level window is at the bottom of the cover and no oil is visible until you pull the bike upright. I'm sure someone will be along who's had the cover off and can let you know.

Also you might need to remove the water pump? Not sure without looking so may as well replace the coolant......

[AMCQ46]

to remove the clutch plates you need to take off the fairings, drain the coolant, but if you work on the sidestand, there is no need to drain the oil.

to remove the plates you just need a 10mm socket to remove all the clutch springs then you can remove the pressure plate and all the friction / steel parts.

like said, you will need a new gasket 1st time as it gets stuck to both sides, but when you rebuild if you put gasket compound on one side of the gasket and grease on the other side it will always come apart nicely on the greased side and can be reused over and over again

[Image]

Confused A problem with clutch fluid wouldn't make the clutch slip would it? Surely that would only effect the clutch lever operation.

[Rob]

Confused A problem with clutch fluid wouldn't make the clutch slip would it? Surely that would only effect the clutch lever operation.

I would imagine that you would have problems disengaging the clutch to change gear, once in gear it should be fine.

I think it was suggested as it's cheap and simple to do and probably needs doing anyway as it's a job most people probably overlook. Plus, you never know - might as well eliminate all the simple and cheap options before going for the expensive ones.

[tony.mon]

I have those Kevlar plates in mine, with uprated springs as well. Although they say the take-up can be more aggressive it's fine, and anyone who's ridden my bike hasn't mentioned it, so I don't think it's noticeable.

They cope well with uprated power, but unfortunately don't cure the clutch grab thing, which is why I tried them.
But they've been in for a couple of years, and I don't treat them gently, so they seem worth the money over the std spec ones.